Decomp Solenoid Click Conditions

DeWarrior · Apr 22, 2003

The other weekend I cut off my mud flap, removed the license plate light, and moved the license plate up. I plan on installing a strip LED wired to the existing license plate light wires, but have not done so yet. The only change I have made to the electrical system on the back end is removing the plate light. The next time I rode the bike and then shut it down that darn decompression solenoid started clicking. That thing is LOUD!

So, I did some experimenting and this is what I found. If you use the engine cut off switch to shut the bike down OR if the bike is not in neutral when you shut down, click click click... If you put the bike in neutral then shut it down with the key there is no clicking and no other weird problems. How weird is that?

Meatball · Apr 22, 2003

Put the lic. plate lights back on the wires and hide them under the fender, there's room and you never have to worry about how you shut the bike off.

redbullssg · Apr 22, 2003

I have mine off also, and I do not have that problem!? How weird isthat?

jimboman · Apr 22, 2003

Pulled mine with no clicking either. How weird is that?

RGWarrior · Apr 22, 2003

Pulled mine off when I first got the bike and did not have any problem, but when I replaced the stock front signals with the Kuryakyn Silver Bullets, I experienced this same problem as have several others when replacing the front signals. Some have installed resistors. Some have soldered an extra bulb in to pull more amps and stuck it in the headlight housing. Some are just living with it and shutting the bike off in neutral and not parking on any hills.

darkstar · Apr 22, 2003

Just pick up a small 20-25watt indicator light at local auto shop and wire it up to the plate light. That will solve the problem. You can tuck that light away under the rear tail light housing. Tons of room between that and the fender.

islecruiser · Apr 22, 2003

I pulled mine off and just stuck the wires up under the tail light and am having no problems with anything.

darkstar · Apr 22, 2003

Yes, I did the same Islecruiser, but some folks do have these problems for whatever reason. I know by adding that little indicater bulb that will solve the problem.

DeWarrior · Apr 22, 2003

Thanks for the info. From the get go I was planning on installing a strip LED (hasn't arrived yet but I just couldn't wait to chop off that mud flap), and hoping that this alone would prevent the problem. If it doesn't I'll install the strip LED and the indicator light as Dark Star suggested.

darkstar · Apr 23, 2003

For your Information. Each individual x 4 TurnSignal/Running light draws 25watts 7.5ohms to operate correctly, so with this information if you decide to change over to LED's you need to draw the proper amperage in order for the on board computer to function properly. With my set up, MDWright Integrated Tail Light and Signal Dynamic's front turnsignals/running lights I have a total of 4 - 25watt 10ohm resistor's running my system with no problems.

DeWarrior · Apr 23, 2003

Thanks for the info Darkstar. I am aware of the issues with using LEDs for turn signals and have already installed LED signals up front successfully. At this time I do not plan on using LED signals on the back. I am only using LEDs for the plate light. As far as I recall from reading the many threads related to LED installs load equalization should not be an issue when replacing just the plate light. Is this correct?

Decomp Solenoid Click Conditions

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