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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This has happened a couple times lately. On start up, the bike will hesitate turning over, then fire up. Interestingly, the trip odometer that was showing changes to showing the mileage. Doesn't happen all the time, only on the " hard start" occasions. Thanks for your input.
 

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When there is a momentary loss of electrical power the gauges reset. The most common cause is one end of the POS or NEG battery cable is a bit corroded or loose. The NEG cable connects to the frame near the oil filler cap, be gentle and after cleaning go light on the torque, just settle the cable ends until flat then apply some pressure then add a little bump.
 

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Yes as PeterSik says. I had the same problem a few years ago, tried to start bike it turned over a few times on the starter and then fired up. Went to my destination and noticed clock and trip odometer had reset. Next time I came to start it, turned over slowly and then nothing. Battery dead. Tried charging still no good. Replaced battery and everything is now good. 👍. Frec 🇬🇧
 

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I agree with both assessments. Cleaning the cable connections is a definite maintenance issue. Ground cables also corrode so inspect as well as the connection to the batteries.
Also if the battery is dying (depending on the battery type & charger you possess) you can try a desulfation charge to reverse the sulfation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I agree with both assessments. Cleaning the cable connections is a definite maintenance issue. Ground cables also corrode so inspect as well as the connection to the batteries.
Also if the battery is dying (depending on the battery type & charger you possess) you can try a desulfation charge to reverse the sulfation.
Yes as PeterSik says. I had the same problem a few years ago, tried to start bike it turned over a few times on the starter and then fired up. Went to my destination and noticed clock and trip odometer had reset. Next time I came to start it, turned over slowly and then nothing. Battery dead. Tried charging still no good. Replaced battery and everything is now good. 👍. Frec 🇬🇧
When there is a momentary loss of electrical power the gauges reset. The most common cause is one end of the POS or NEG battery cable is a bit corroded or loose. The NEG cable connects to the frame near the oil filler cap, be gentle and after cleaning go light on the torque, just settle the cable ends until flat then apply some pressure then add a little bump.
Okay, I checked the battery connections, cleaned the terminals, too. Resting voltage is 13.6, draws down to about 10-12 volts on cranking.
The interesting thing is that I never have used the kill switch to shut the bike off until this morning. After cranking a few times the engine fired and I used it to shut off the engine. That is when I heard the Clicking sound, seemed to be coming from around the front area near the headlight?! Anyway, the power was still on and as long as it stayed on the clicking continued. Shut off power by the key and that was that.
Interestingly, when I first turned power on by way of the key( no kill switch involved) earlier, I had no headlight power. But when I killed the engine by the kill switch later( when the clicking started) the headlight remained on as long as the key was turned to on. The battery is about a year and a half old. This hesitancy to turn over has been around since I bought the bike about a year ago. The odometer reset is a more recent phenomenon. By the way, when I turned the power on via the key this morning, the odometer reset. No load, no cranking, just power on. Any ideas? Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Addendum:
I keep this thing on a battery tender inside the garage when it is not ridden. And as you advised in a earlier response, I did check the negative ground by the oil fill cap. It was as tight as could be.

I also ran an rpm test up to about 2,000 to see if the battery voltage would change. No change, stayed right at about 14V and a fraction. Regulator seems to be doing it's job.
 

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That clicking is the Click of Death (COD). If you’ve changed your front signals to LED and removed your license plate light (or switched to LED), COD is inevitable. Multiple ways to fix it but best way to live with it is to NOT use the kill switch and ONLY use the key to kill the engine. If you do use the kill switch, immediately restart and use the key to turn it off or you’ll have a dead (like, not chargeable back to life kinda dead) battery.

The headlight is normal. No Warrior’s headlight turns on with key on. These are big, v-twin engines and they need every amp to crank. After starting, the headlight turns on and remains on until key off. 100% normal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
That clicking is the Click of Death (COD). If you’ve changed your front signals to LED and removed your license plate light (or switched to LED), COD is inevitable. Multiple ways to fix it but best way to live with it is to NOT use the kill switch and ONLY use the key to kill the engine. If you do use the kill switch, immediately restart and use the key to turn it off or you’ll have a dead (like, not chargeable back to life kinda dead) battery.

The headlight is normal. No Warrior’s headlight turns on with key on. These are big, v-twin engines and they need every amp to crank. After starting, the headlight turns on and remains on until key off. 100% normal.
Thanks for your response. Spent a lot of time today reading this forum. Found your last paragraph is right on the money re. the headlight, pays to read, lol.

One clue which I am not sure of were it points, is the odometer reading replacing the trip mileage setting upon turning on the key to power as mentioned in the last sentence of the main body of my text.
I did take the battery out later in the day and take it to the local Auto Zone. It was tested and found to be fully charged and up to specs.
 

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Based on your responses the next step is to open the headlight bucket and take a picture of how things are tightly organized in there as a road map to reassembly. Then systematically unplug and inspect and clean each electrical coupling. Then apply a small dab of 'bulb grease' then reconnect the coupling.

After your next ride, use the kill switch to shut down, and check around the motor for where the buzzing noise is coming from. Post a reduced-file-size picture of the area.

Same time, post some specific pics. Left and right sides of the bike. Front and rear. Under rider seat. And the one inside the headlight bucket. We can help you identify if your bike has COD, and point you to known diy solution threads.

If nothing here solves your gauge reset trouble then and only then we need to look deeper. If that becomes necessary it will become nice to confirm if auto zone included a load-test in their checkup. Plus it will become necessary to investigate and test the operation of the decompression solenoid. The service e-manual will be used, links are posted around here.
 

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When I first bought my second Warrior I knew it would need some TLC as it was a sitter. I had seen the connection to the battery had some corrosion. So swapped cabled and put new connectors and made sure ground to the body was good. I also had some resetting and part of my odo was very light. I took the headlight bucket apart and cleaned every connection with some brass brushed and light sandpaper. A little dielectric grease then went onto each little connection. So far so good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
When I first bought my second Warrior I knew it would need some TLC as it was a sitter. I had seen the connection to the battery had some corrosion. So swapped cabled and put new connectors and made sure ground to the body was good. I also had some resetting and part of my odo was very light. I took the headlight bucket apart and cleaned every connection with some brass brushed and light sandpaper. A little dielectric grease then went onto each little connection. So far so good.
Okay, as requested. Pics from all angles. I want to emphasize that this is an intermittent issue. In Tire Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle Automotive lighting
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any time there's too low voltage to the tacho it will reset.. even if it's only for a fraction of a second.. happened to me often enough when starting in cold weather on a less than full battery..
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Based on your responses the next step is to open the headlight bucket and take a picture of how things are tightly organized in there as a road map to reassembly. Then systematically unplug and inspect and clean each electrical coupling. Then apply a small dab of 'bulb grease' then reconnect the coupling.

After your next ride, use the kill switch to shut down, and check around the motor for where the buzzing noise is coming from. Post a reduced-file-size picture of the area.

Same time, post some specific pics. Left and right sides of the bike. Front and rear. Under rider seat. And the one inside the headlight bucket. We can help you identify if your bike has COD, and point you to known diy solution threads.

If nothing here solves your gauge reset trouble then and only then we need to look deeper. If that becomes necessary it will become nice to confirm if auto zone included a load-test in their checkup. Plus it will become necessary to investigate and test the operation of the decompression solenoid. The service e-manual will be used, links are posted around here.
Based on your responses the next step is to open the headlight bucket and take a picture of how things are tightly organized in there as a road map to reassembly. Then systematically unplug and inspect and clean each electrical coupling. Then apply a small dab of 'bulb grease' then reconnect the coupling.

After your next ride, use the kill switch to shut down, and check around the motor for where the buzzing noise is coming from. Post a reduced-file-size picture of the area.

Same time, post some specific pics. Left and right sides of the bike. Front and rear. Under rider seat. And the one inside the headlight bucket. We can help you identify if your bike has COD, and point you to known diy solution threads.

If nothing here solves your gauge reset trouble then and only then we need to look deeper. If that becomes necessary it will become nice to confirm if auto zone included a load-test in their checkup. Plus it will become necessary to investigate and test the operation of the decompression solenoid. The service e-manual will be used, links are posted around here.
 

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Looking at your pics, thanks. Trying to see if anything jumps out as trouble. So far just one thing. I'll look more later.

Look at your chrome 102 cover, on its left is the decompression cover. These two items are Yamaha accessory items made for the Warrior (neither are stock). The 102 cover is a good fit. The first version of the decompression cover did not have a recess on its back side for the wires to pass through. That led to crushed wires interrupting the decompression system, thereby making it hard to start the motor (hard on battery and starter). It was sometimes intermittent, and was also usually progressive over time in the damage done. Some units also had a thickness problem, the decompression rod would hit the inside of the decompression cover. It left marks inside. The fixes were to grind clearance as needed. Some of the first accessory decompression covers had both troubles, others just had one or the other. Might have been made by multiple vendors. Dunno.

Your decompression cover could be the corrected one and it might be perfect. It's easy to remove the decompression cover to inspect. If grinding is needed and is wire repair is needed, it's easily diy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Looking at your pics, thanks. Trying to see if anything jumps out as trouble. So far just one thing. I'll look more later.

Look at your chrome 102 cover, on its left is the decompression cover. These two items are Yamaha accessory items made for the Warrior (neither are stock). The 102 cover is a good fit. The first version of the decompression cover did not have a recess on its back side for the wires to pass through. That led to crushed wires interrupting the decompression system, thereby making it hard to start the motor (hard on battery and starter). It was sometimes intermittent, and was also usually progressive over time in the damage done. Some units also had a thickness problem, the decompression rod would hit the inside of the decompression cover. It left marks inside. The fixes were to grind clearance as needed. Some of the first accessory decompression covers had both troubles, others just had one or the other. Might have been made by multiple vendors. Dunno.

Your decompression cover could be the corrected one and it might be perfect. It's easy to remove the decompression cover to inspect. If grinding is needed and is wire repair is needed, it's easily diy.
Yes, read a lot about that on the forum. That is my suspicion also. I rechecked with Auto Zone and the test on the battery did include a load test. I'll let you know about the DS cover once I remove the pipes to get at it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yes, read a lot about that on the forum. That is my suspicion also. I rechecked with Auto Zone and the test on the battery did include a load test. I'll let you know about the DS cover once I remove the pipes to get at it.
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OK, wait a sec. The 102 cover is the one to remove and check? I thought the DS cover was the potential culprit here. Yes I checked and the 102 cover has a nice notch machined in the lower, middle left side where the wires pass through. If so, I won't have to take pipes off.
On the forum, I saw someone sending you a pic of the DS cover regarding a similar problem. Please straighten me out, LOL. And thanks to all for everyone's imput.
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Thanks for staying with us and posting pics and such. SUPER helpful as we can’t see what you do and @arizonawarrior is an amazing trouble shooter with what seems like is endless insight into the most minute details and idiosyncrasies of this bike.

The 102 cover is not the culprit, the decompression solenoid cover is. You will most likely have to remove, at a minimum, the upper pipe to get at it. This isn’t always the case but some aftermarket exhaust take liberties with their design and make servicing these beasts harder than intended.

Remove that cover and post pics of the backside and of the actual wires on the solenoid. That will better assist the diagnosis of this issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks for staying with us and posting pics and such. SUPER helpful as we can’t see what you do and @arizonawarrior is an amazing trouble shooter with what seems like is endless insight into the most minute details and idiosyncrasies of this bike.

The 102 cover is not the culprit, the decompression solenoid cover is. You will most likely have to remove, at a minimum, the upper pipe to get at it. This isn’t always the case but some aftermarket exhaust take liberties with their design and make servicing these beasts harder than intended.

Remove that cover and post pics of the backside and of the actual wires on the solenoid. That will better assist the diagnosis of this issue.
Okay, yeah that one pipe must come off.☹
I'll gets some help to do the removal. I'll shoot you all the pics. Might be couple weeks before that happens. Thanks.
 

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OK, wait a sec. The 102 cover is the one to remove and check? I thought the DS cover was the potential culprit here.
Suggest revisiting my post here, it seems spelled-out in painstaking detail :p
 
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