[arizonawarrior]

When there is a momentary loss of electrical power the gauges reset. The most common cause is one end of the POS or NEG battery cable is a bit corroded or loose. The NEG cable connects to the frame near the oil filler cap, be gentle and after cleaning go light on the torque, just settle the cable ends until flat then apply some pressure then add a little bump.

 

[arizonawarrior]

Based on your responses the next step is to open the headlight bucket and take a picture of how things are tightly organized in there as a road map to reassembly. Then systematically unplug and inspect and clean each electrical coupling. Then apply a small dab of 'bulb grease' then reconnect the coupling.

After your next ride, use the kill switch to shut down, and check around the motor for where the buzzing noise is coming from. Post a reduced-file-size picture of the area.

Same time, post some specific pics. Left and right sides of the bike. Front and rear. Under rider seat. And the one inside the headlight bucket. We can help you identify if your bike has COD, and point you to known diy solution threads.

If nothing here solves your gauge reset trouble then and only then we need to look deeper. If that becomes necessary it will become nice to confirm if auto zone included a load-test in their checkup. Plus it will become necessary to investigate and test the operation of the decompression solenoid. The service e-manual will be used, links are posted around here.

 

[arizonawarrior]

Looking at your pics, thanks. Trying to see if anything jumps out as trouble. So far just one thing. I'll look more later.

Look at your chrome 102 cover, on its left is the decompression cover. These two items are Yamaha accessory items made for the Warrior (neither are stock). The 102 cover is a good fit. The first version of the decompression cover did not have a recess on its back side for the wires to pass through. That led to crushed wires interrupting the decompression system, thereby making it hard to start the motor (hard on battery and starter). It was sometimes intermittent, and was also usually progressive over time in the damage done. Some units also had a thickness problem, the decompression rod would hit the inside of the decompression cover. It left marks inside. The fixes were to grind clearance as needed. Some of the first accessory decompression covers had both troubles, others just had one or the other. Might have been made by multiple vendors. Dunno.

Your decompression cover could be the corrected one and it might be perfect. It's easy to remove the decompression cover to inspect. If grinding is needed and is wire repair is needed, it's easily diy.

 

[arizonawarrior]

OK, wait a sec. The 102 cover is the one to remove and check? I thought the DS cover was the potential culprit here.

Suggest revisiting my post here, it seems spelled-out in painstaking detail

 

[arizonawarrior]

It's not your fault. Chapter 5 has certain errors, sometimes calling the cam cover (102 on it) the decompression cover in error. The decompression rods are in the end of the cams, but its still called the cam cover in all correct materials. The only correctly-named decompression cover is the decompression solenoid cover so most of us drop the word solenoid just because it's less typing. So my bad, in this case I should have been more clear. Good job.

 

[arizonawarrior]

What condition are the electrical connection wires in, is there any abrasion flattening etc.

 

[arizonawarrior]

I have code 38 The decompression open short you’re saying this may be a computer related issue versus an actual decompression solenoid issue is that correct I’ve been trying to troubleshoot for a while

Post a picture of the back of your cover and a picture of the solenoid and wire. This is usually a physical problem with the cover or physical damage to wiring. Or sometimes physical damage to the decompression hardware. Let's see what you have. What model year is your Warrior?