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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
1. Cut the clamp off the stock "water heater".


2. Get an exhaust adaptor at auto store- I can't remember what size adaptor (made up #'son theillustration) so once you cut the end off the "water heater" take that little piece with you to the store tofind the right size adaptor. I couldn't find an adaptor that would be small enough to match up to the size of the clamp off the water heater and yet be large enough to fit a 2.5" tip.I know my exhaust tip was like an 1/8" larger than the adaptor so was only able to weld about half way around but plenty strong.


3. Buy a 2.5" exhaust tip.I went with the 2.5"because itfollows the contour of the heat shield and doesn't look homemade.Pick out whatever tip you like,I might even change mine and get one that has a curve for a turn down.....


4. Cut thesmall end off adaptor- I had toosoall the welds and adaptorwould fit behind the heat shield. Otherwisethe whole thing would be too long.


5. First weld the tip to the adaptor. (overlapping tip onto adaptor).


6. Tack weld the adaptor (with tip welded on) to the clamp. I did it this way so I could slide it all on and properly adjust the spacing between the tip and the heat shield.


7. Once it's fitted, slide it off and weld it up. (do not weld it consistantly around for it will warp. Just weld a little here and a little there until it's complete).


Thiswas a chrometip thatI sanded down andpainted with1700 degree header paint.Follow the directions on the can to"bake" the paint on. I haven'thad a problem with it pealing so far. It doeshave a couple chips in the tip though (dropped allen wrench on it a couple times taking off the rear pegs). This isVERY sturdy and does not vibrate at all. I'veracked up a couple thousand miles with thiswith no problems.If you have anyquestions just give me shout.


P.S. I only bumped my ECU +3 and once I installed the AIS block off, I rarely have a backfire













 

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i did the same mod befor i got my kickers,it's loud as f*ck,but it lacks a good tone,when i had mine i was taking a ride to milwaukee(half hour away) for the harley 105th and the whole time i was riding at night it was constant 6-8 flame coming out,i have to say it was bad a*s
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
lol well it is loud and true doesn't have the great tone as a full set of pipes. Though for only $20 it's a big improvement over stock.



I've rode with this for a little over a year and can't say I've had any flames come out, you must be running pretty rich. Though it would be a pretty cool sight.
 

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yeah i richened it up so i wouldn't have it run lean with the lack of back pressure,it was pretty cool sight,had the harley guys lookin
 

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Tausch said:
yeah i richened it up so i wouldn't have it run lean with the lack of back pressure,it was pretty cool sight,had the harley guys lookin

I did the same thing on mine for a while. When you decel. and it pops I was able to get what my buddy told me looked like a 12 to 18" flame.
 

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LOL...you guys are nuts!! I appreciate the tip on the DIY mod, but thats not what Im interested in iether. Ill probably just keep saving for a Sppedstar cause thats what I really want. Im just getting ancy cause we have Emerald Coast Bikefest coming up in 3 weeks.
 

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im thinkin about doin this to my 2002 warrior i just picked up, moneys tight but that stock mufflers gotta go!! what would happen if i just take the muffler off and dont weld a tip in there right away other than look kinda stupid? and by taking the muffler off do you think i will have problems with the bike if i dont change the ECU, i dont have a power commander.
 

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i didnt weld anything to the stock pipe,what i did was bought a reducer and welded the tip to that then clamped it on
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Welcome number1mrt
. I ran without any kind of tip on myheader for aweek or two but it was too ugly and looked obvious you took off the pipe. I would HIGHLY recommend bumping up the ECU.Zwarrior gave the link to do that. MAKE SURE YOU WRITE DOWN THE FACTORY SETTINGS!!!!and keep them in a safe place.Thisway if you get a power commander or different setup later you can adjust it accordingly.Make sure you check out my DIY Mod List. Click on the link in my signiture


Tausch said:
i didnt weld anything to the stock pipe,what i did was bought a reducer and welded the tip to that then clamped it on

That would work as well and probably be easier too lol.
 

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Ok i think i unerstand the DIY ECU thing, only thing i need clearing up on is wire #27 and #29 are technically the same wire they just loop and go in 2 different places? and doing the DIY exhaust thing will be the only mod so far so anyone have a ballpark number or how much + i should make each cylinder? thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
ECU adjustment is EASY!!!! The #27 and #29 wires is actually only 1 wire.


26,27,28,29,30,31,ect.....


On the ECU there are small numbers like so. One yellow/red wire about 6" long will connect #27 and #29. I would bump it up +6 to start. Check your spark plugs before you ride and again after you ride 50 miles. Make sure you bump each cylinder evenly.


From the factory if one cyl. is +2 and the other is -3


then add 6 to both so one would be +8 and the other +3.
 

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i made my own short twin pipes 2" no baffles and i dont reckon they are that loud. i had a similar mod to this before that but with a longer tip and it was pretty quiet i thought. there is some pics of the ones i made in the exhaust photo thread
 

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Just picked up my new ride! Good to be part of the family. I just had one more question about DIY ECU since you cut 27 and 29 apart,do you connect the little jumper you make to the part of the wire coming out of #27 or the one out of #29?and then when your finished changing stuff just clip 27 and 29 back together so its all one peice again?
 
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