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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I am not the first person who has made a DIY VBAK, and in fact in my blog I have a list of mods with my first VBAK there. I properly attributed the member who gave me the idea there. However, it's been awhile, and I'm short of time. So -if you want to know who originally sourced the proper header size, please read my blog.

I was asked to post this up when I mentioned it while referencing my Raider. I made this VBAK for my Raider, and posted it up there. Most members there are more concerned about looks than performance, so I didn't see a lot of interest in it. That doesn't concern me, it's just a different world over there.

Anyway--- in my original VBAK, I used radiator pipe/hose to connect the velocity stack to the throttle body. That required me going to the junk yard and finding the appropriate size hose (hint, look for big trucks or pickups. You need hose with a 2 inch interior diameter). This time, I thought it might be easier to use plumbing hose from Home Depot (or Lowe's or whatever). I feel like it was easier -in fact they come with hose clamps, but it required me to modify the length of the velocity stacks. In fact, I had to cut them in half because the length of the rubber section was much longer. This also might be because the Raider tank sits a little different than the Warrior tank -in fact, there is a fuel line coming out from the bottom of the tank. So I would make the original cut first and test fit it before cutting it down again like I had to. Other than that it was pretty cut and dried. Ha! a pun!!!


Edit: I’ve since learned you can buy 1 7/8 inch ID silicone hose - and can get it with a built in bend, such as 45 degrees. When I built my VBAK for the Raider, I used that inastead. It was easier to bend and work with, so I suggest that. But, I’ve built them all three ways now - radiator hose, plumbing hose, and silicone hose. All work. Whatever you can get your hands on basically.
Here's my original post over there:

"I saw with interest that Ivan noted one reason to keep the stock airbox is because it has built in velocity stacks which help with airflow. I still believe the stock airbox is restrictive, even with the stack.

I made what we commonly make for the Warrior -a VBAK (Velocity Big Air Kit). This provides increased airflow while removing the restrictions of the airbox (one flat inlet of air). It also maintains the velocity stack -in fact the runners are longer now.

I'm sure there are arguments pro and con about keeping the airbox etc. I'm not a big airbox guy, so I went this route. If you don't think it will work for you, that's great. I love it. I know on the Warrior it will add about 3-5 HP. I haven't dyno tuned before/after with my Raider, so I don't know what it adds other than seat of the pants performance. I'm happy, and that's all that counts ;)

You need:

1 header pipe (about 23 bucks). I got this on Amazon.
2 rubber clamp adapters (about 5 bucks each). I got these at Home Depot.
2 two inch pod filters (I use cheap eBay ones which are 3 dollars each. But I am pretty religious about changing them out. Obviously for many of you K&N is the way to go).
1 small crankvent filter. (About 8 bucks at Auto Zone).
1 1/2 inch barbed hose adapter. I got this at Home Depot for about 3 bucks.
2 feet of hose the same size as the crank-case vent line. I think it's 3/8, but I'm not sure. I just carried my old one in to AutoZone and asked for 2 feet of it. It cost about 5 bucks I think.

I cut the header pipe curved section off the straight section, then cut it in half. It was a little tight under the tank, so I cut it in half again. -Again, test fit this first before cutting it again. There's no going back...

I then attached the filter pod to one end, and the hose adapter to the other end.
Obviously I removed the stock airbox. I ziptied all the wire connectors to the side of the frame, and the sensors I also ziptied to the frame.
For the hose going to the LCV (or whatever it's called for the Raider), I inserted the barbed hose connector and then attached the small filter on the other end.

I removed the small crankcase vent hose and attached my 2 foot hose and ran it down in front of the rear tire. On the Warrior that's all you have to do with no issues. After reading up I see that this may produce more oil mist than the Warrior, so I may have to add a puke can. (A "5 Hour Energy Drink" bottle works great for that).

I attached the Velocity Stacks to the throttle bodies and tightened everything down. The rear filter sticks up a bit, but the hose is fairly flexible, and I checked and double checked that it would fit under the tank. The tank pushes down on it a bit, but that's not an issue (same as on my Warrior).

Edit NOTE: I actually ended up notching the rubber section that fits onto the throttle bodies. There is a bump of metal there that was getting in the way. Once I notched the rubber to account for that, it slid down an extra half an inch, which then gave me more confidence it would stay in place when I buttoned everything up and the tank might end up pressing down on the filter (slightly)...

Took it for a test ride. Rode awesome. Of course, this was my first actual ride on my Raider, since it's been in parts all over my garage since I got it 3 weeks ago. Anything would have felt awesome at this point :)

Anyway, that's my version of a Big Air Kit, and I'm always open to suggestions :)"

OK -there's my DIY VBAK. Probably cost what, about $55?

Churchkey's is way better I'm sure -and he uses K&N filters and so on, but this works for me :)
 

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Nice write up.

I'm just tagging this on in case it helps someone else out. Personally, I used a 1 7/8" silicone coupler off Amazon to connect the runners to the throttle bodies, one was plenty & I just cut it in half. Like Deuce mentioned, I recommend trimming the bottom half of the coupler so that it fits the throttle body more securely.

One other thing I did was chamfer the ends of the tubing, so that the silicone coupler & air filter slide over easier & don't get chewed up by a sharp edge.

Parts used:

1.875" blue silicone connector, 3" long x1
1.875" 16 gauge stainless exhaust tubing
Breather filter x2
K&N RC1290 air filter x2
Misc hose clamps, fuel line for the breathers, etc.
 

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If you use the K&N RC1290 filters, use 1 7/8" tubing. That's a better fit for the Warrior throttle body anyway.
 

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This is great of you both :)
Such a nice way to spend an afternoon to enhance the bike for performance rather than looks.
I to have a Raider ( stock 11). Along with my Warrior (09 silver).
The Warrior has V&H pipes and a fuel pak when I bought it. I will look under the tank to see if anything has been done to the intake. If not, I will start this.
248900
 
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