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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Drag raced my Warrior. First slip on left was my bike stock with just aftermarket exhaust. Middle slip is after I installed the churchkey vbak intake. For some reason bike slowed down a bit. Possibly running to lean since I did not get it tuned afterwards? Far right slip is after I installed the Baron 31T front pulley.

Huge difference with that pulley! I'm literally about 100-200 rpms from redline in 4th as I pass finish line. So next mod will be ecu flash so I can stretch out my redline. So I don't have to shift right before the finish line.
My goal is to break 12's I really don't think I can do much better than a 1.9 60'ft so what mods do I need to shave another 3 tenths to reach my goal?
 

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Drag raced my Warrior. First slip on left was my bike stock with just aftermarket exhaust. Middle slip is after I installed the churchkey vbak intake. For some reason bike slowed down a bit. Possibly running to lean since I did not get it tuned afterwards? Far right slip is after I installed the Baron 31T front pulley.

Huge difference with that pulley! I'm literally about 100-200 rpms from redline in 4th as I pass finish line. So next mod will be ecu flash so I can stretch out my redline. So I don't have to shift right before the finish line.
My goal is to break 12's I really don't think I can do much better than a 1.9 60'ft so what mods do I need to shave another 3 tenths to reach my goal?

If you're gonna drag race, get rid of those forward controls, they'll slow you down and risk getting thrown off the back of the bike. You need something that'll put your feet under or behind you.
 

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Welcome to the forum. I love drag racing the warrior just got my PR yesterday on the last race of the season got down to a 12.07. This is my first year racing the bike and the learning curve can be steep if you want to take it really serious. I wasn't satisfied with the pulley I and actually switched mine to a chain drive. There is no reason you 60 can't improve with what you have. What RPM are you launching and what is your tire pressure at when your racing? I'm launching at no less that 4000 and i run 20 to 25 PSI depending on the day. Are you doing a burn out as well? If so i'd make sure your going around the water box don't drive through it.

Drag raced my Warrior. First slip on left was my bike stock with just aftermarket exhaust. Middle slip is after I installed the churchkey vbak intake. For some reason bike slowed down a bit. Possibly running to lean since I did not get it tuned afterwards? Far right slip is after I installed the Baron 31T front pulley.

Huge difference with that pulley! I'm literally about 100-200 rpms from redline in 4th as I pass finish line. So next mod will be ecu flash so I can stretch out my redline. So I don't have to shift right before the finish line.
My goal is to break 12's I really don't think I can do much better than a 1.9 60'ft so what mods do I need to shave another 3 tenths to reach my goal?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I have a BUB exhaust. and I do not have a power commander.

I'm got my best 60' with tire pressure at 22PSI launch at 2000-2500 rpms. anything higher, and I will basically do a burnout all of first gear. I'm not doing a burnout so obviously not going through water. So should I start doing dry burnouts? and should I not roll through water first?What kind of 60'ft. ET's are you getting?

what mods do you have?
 

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You need a tuner before you do the flash IMO. You are leaving a decent bit on the table running both an exhaust and a VBAK without a tuner, and you are likely running pretty lean.
 

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For the flash you need to send it to Ivan and that is not the same as a tune but read here
Ivan's Performance Products

For a tune you will need a Power commander or comparable to increase the fuel.

Yes do a small little burn out to clean off the tires but do not go thru the water box. Also too long of a burn out on radial tires will actually make them a bit greasy. Also do not lower the tire pressure under 20 as these are not drag radials and will deform.

Also try launching higher but with a delicate slip of the clutch cause if you dump it the tire will go up in smoke. You should be able to cut a much better 60' with some practice.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
What commander should I buy? Do I need to manually adjust fuel? Or is it some sort of plug and play unit? Also when I send ECU to get flash. Does it matter that I live in Utah (4450 ft. elevation) and may be tuned richer than desired do to less oxygen?
 

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I have a BUB exhaust. and I do not have a power commander.

I'm got my best 60' with tire pressure at 22PSI launch at 2000-2500 rpms. anything higher, and I will basically do a burnout all of first gear. I'm not doing a burnout so obviously not going through water. So should I start doing dry burnouts? and should I not roll through water first?What kind of 60'ft. ET's are you getting?

what mods do you have?
A few things I'd start doing a burnout help clean off and heat up the tire some. I will go around the water box and then back into it till the tire is in the water pull forward just ahead of the box and let it rip. Don't pull through it you don't want water on your tires. My best 60 is a 1.5x. Second of all get your RPM's up about twice what you have for launch. I am willing to bet with your RPM's that low unless your pinning the throttle off the get go your R's are dropping way to far to really help you in the 60. I launch at 4000 min.

As far as what i have done to the bike I have a bit more into it than i think alot of people would do especially for being a warrior. But really its my bike and i wanted something different but i am looking at a different bike for racing as well i want a bracket racing bike and then my warrior as well for racing in my street legal cruiser class that we have at the local track. I should be in the 11's next year on all motor since this was my first year racing and working out launches and a few gremlins i had with some things too but the list of what is done is as follows.......... I am changing from an electric shifter to air and i'm doing nitrous as well over the winter. Although the nitrous wont be used till i hit 11's all motor.

Patrick Racing Cams
Patrick Racing 110 CU.IN. Kit
Patrick Racing Stage 2 Heads
Patrick Racing Air Intake
Patrick Racing Bored Throttle Bodies
Patrick Racing Polished Intake and Exhaust Manifolds
Vance and Hines Pro Pipe
Big City Thunder Baffle
Ivan’s ECU Re-Flash
Barnett Clutch Kit
Barnett Heavy Clutch Springs
Barnett Clutch Cable
Barnett Throttle Cables
Pingel Electric Shifter
Daytona Sensors WEGO IV AFR Logger
Daytona Sensors SL-1 Shift/Launch Light/Data Logger
Barons Rear Lowing Link
MPS Racing Front End Lowering Strap
Shinko Stealth Drag Radial – Rear
Shinko Verge – Front
 

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FWIW Herrerrerra, my best time is 12.7280 with a 60' of 1.8080 at 102.04 MPH. That was early this season (2016). Performance mods are:
Power Commander V
Ivan's ECU flash (using the PCV map provided by Ivan)
Churchkey's VBAK
AIS Block
V&H Big Shots
31 Tooth Pulley
Barnet Spring Conversion kit​
 

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Discussion Starter #15
is the DynoJet power commander plug and play? or do I have to manually adjust fuel?
Also any preference of the DynoJet III over the DynoJet V? cant find any real info other than it's smaller, and doesn't require a 9vadapter.
 

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is the DynoJet power commander plug and play? or do I have to manually adjust fuel?
Also any preference of the DynoJet III over the DynoJet V? cant find any real info other than it's smaller, and doesn't require a 9vadapter.
typically your going to want to get a custom map for it by dyne tuning the bike. I had mine tuned and then started tweaking the maps from there with the use of the AFR data logger i installed which is what got me into the low 12s on my last race.

If and when i switch to the nitrous set up I'm going to ditch the PC3 and get the PCV one because the PC3 is discontinued and the PCV has optional two map switch that i'll use for a nitrous map and a normal map.
 
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