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took my worrior the strip the first time this weekend. Was running with my buddys mt-09. My bike is pretty stock besides bak, pcIII and v&h big shots. First couple of times were really crappy since the first pass I had no idea where the 1/4 mile line was at and stopped at the 1/8th. Third and best pass was a 12.6 at 100.83 mph

My main question is, whats a good time for a bike like mine. Im 170 pounds. I felt like my launches were great. I was launching at about 4k rpm. Should I try quick shifting next time or not. I used to quick shift on my fz6r and at cruiser transmission feels so much different. Yall got any tips?
 

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Post up your slips so we can see the other data.
Like what is your 60' time?
What are you shifting at?
What are you doing for pre-launch....like airing down the tire to approx. 25 lbs? A small burnout to clean off the tire?
Also drive around the water and back up into the waterbox.
Few other racers will chime in but that time is respectable. What is the elevation there? The DA for that day?
 

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took my worrior the strip the first time this weekend. Was running with my buddys mt-09. My bike is pretty stock besides bak, pcIII and v&h big shots. First couple of times were really crappy since the first pass I had no idea where the 1/4 mile line was at and stopped at the 1/8th. Third and best pass was a 12.6 at 100.83 mph

My main question is, whats a good time for a bike like mine. Im 170 pounds. I felt like my launches were great. I was launching at about 4k rpm. Should I try quick shifting next time or not. I used to quick shift on my fz6r and at cruiser transmission feels so much different. Yall got any tips?
I agree with @Heftysmurf . Post up your time slips and other data like bike setup. Maybe post a pic of your ride. I haven't ran bikes in many years, but I still race NHRA Top Dragster. I used to race a lowered and stretched out R1 that did mid to High 9's around 150 mph depending on track conditions and DA. Doesn't sound like a bad pass for your first time. I'm not sure I would quick sift your bike though, others may feel differently. I had a power commander quick sift setup on my rocket when raced, as well as a racing clutch and may other mods.
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I’m going back 14 years when a few of us West Coast Warrior owners went to our local drag strip, my 1st time with a bike and I was a bit nervous. I had 1/2 dozen races and all times were in the low 13’s my best was 13.045. I was around 100kg and one of the other Warrior guys Roy put down two identical runs of 12. 546, Roy was a feather weight and had 30kg on me but he was also a better rider with more experience than my few weeks of ownership.

I don’t want to take away from your post but thought the info on the time sheets might give you something to compare to.

Stock bike 03’ Warriors other than the V&H Bigshots, Roy’s might have had a PC fitted, I’m not sure.




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Discussion Starter #6
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right lane #59. I was running street pressure. And spinning the tire first. Probably shifting at 5k almost red line.. i had a better launch later that night, it hooked and stood up.. wasnt expecting that.. i think i need to practice feathering the clutch.
 

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Member dfowes ( or something like that) does a lot of drag racing on his warrior I'm sure he can give you some tips

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At the time you raced the DA seems to be in the 2000 range. Your 60' is really good for street tires.
Your back half speed is very low, did you hit rev limiter, miss a shift or miscalculated the end?
 

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Density Altitude is what it stands for. So it takes into account the weather like temp, humidity, barometric pressure and calculates a number. So the higher the number the harder your motor works and zaps a little power. It is like the "perceived altitude" you are racing at. So guys who live in the higher altitudes have less oxygen in the air therefore make less power meaning slower ET's.
Also your trap speed should be in the low 100's so wondering what gear did you cross the traps in?
 

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took my worrior the strip the first time this weekend. Was running with my buddys mt-09. My bike is pretty stock besides bak, pcIII and v&h big shots. First couple of times were really crappy since the first pass I had no idea where the 1/4 mile line was at and stopped at the 1/8th. Third and best pass was a 12.6 at 100.83 mph

My main question is, whats a good time for a bike like mine. Im 170 pounds. I felt like my launches were great. I was launching at about 4k rpm. Should I try quick shifting next time or not. I used to quick shift on my fz6r and at cruiser transmission feels so much different. Yall got any tips?
Here's a thread I started of this season's races but didn't keep up with it. It has some time slip data and videos. You may be able to get some useful data from it.

And here's a thread I started about my very first First Place win along with the times. It also has time slip data and a video.

I have several drag racing videos (among other things) of the Warrior and others at the track on my YouTube page if you want to check them out. www.youtube.com/dfhowes

My Warrior performance mods include:
Power Commander V
Churchkey's VBAK
AIS Block
V&H Big Shots
31 Tooth Pulley (gets you off the line faster but you lose some at the top end)
Ivan's ECU flash
Barnet Spring Conversion kit
Schnitz Dual mode shift light.

I've been racing for 5 seasons now but note that I do not consider myself any kind of expert. I'm mainly out there just to have fun. But I'll gladly share any data and what limited knowledge I have. BTW, I'm 230 lbs and my best ET is 12.7280, so in that respect, your 12.6 is pretty good for a first timer. And your 60' of 1.7870 is (IMHO) very respectable.

Tires: I been running Avon Storm 3D X/Ms but I ruined my last one prematurely. It was a fairly new tire & I didn't feel like spending another ~$300 to replace it. Since I am using the Warrior mainly for racing and the Honda for commuting, I replaced the Avon with a Shinko 003 Stealth (003 Stealth Radial Tire). DOT approved but made for strip or track. I know I won't get near the same mileage as the Avon but it's a lot cheaper. I immediately noticed better traction at the strip. In fact, the first time I used them, I got into the high 12s. (12.78 If I remember correctly). I used to run 13.10s real regular but now I'm down to 13.00s and get into high 12s every once in a while.

I'm not going to offer to much on burnouts. From what I've read, heating up a street tire too much makes them slippery not sticky. But I'm certain that is dependent on make and model of tire you're using. As a general rule, if you're running a street tire, people suggest rolling by the water and not through it. The reasoning is that water can still be retained in the sipes and therefor can reduce your ability to gain traction. And the next racer won't appreciate water on the track, however minimal it may be. Either way, at the very least do a light burnout. You don't have to necessarily smoke the tires, your main objective is to clean it off from dirt and rocks.

This is the first season I've actually started to play around with my tire pressure. At this time, I'm running 15 to 20 PSI and make changes according to air temp and humidity. I'm also keeping track of time and humidity along with my numbers from time slips. So I'm still working on analyzing the data. I know that there's people here that know WAY more than I do about racing and I would very much welcome any feedback if I'm wrong about something. Here's what I've noticed. When air temp gets cooler, the bike runs a little quicker but the track tends to not be as sticky. As far as humidity, well I'm still working at it. Here's some good information Just Drag Racing - Weather Stations 101

Shift Light: I have the Schnitz dual funtion shift light. If you already know how shift lights work, skip to the next paragraph. The Dual dual mode has two settings. One is for what you want your launch RPM set at. I have my set at 4500 +- 300 RPM. Between 4200 to 4800 RPM, the LEDs will light up. If you rev over 4800 RPM, the LEDs will flash. This way you can concentrate on the tree and not have to glance at your tach. Staring at the tree, you throttle until you see a bright red light go on. Flashing red and you might launch harder than you want and wheelie - or spin the tires. The second function kicks in once you start moving. This is the shift indicator. When you see the red LED, shift. I have mine set at 5000 RPM. Thanks to Ivan's flash increasing RPM to 5850, we can squeeze a few more RPMs out.

As far as quick shifting, yes! It will improve your ETs. That's the only way I shift now.
On a side note, I installed a used Pingel electric shifter but I can't get the damned thing to shift. I even sent it in to Pingel for a rebuild and it still does the same thing. The armature arm pushes but it's real lazy - it doesn't kick hard like it should. So I've put that project aside for now. Anyone reading this part that can help, it would be greatly appreciated!

Any other questions, I'll try to help. Like I said, I'm not expert but I can offer at least some insight for beginners. I hope this helps.
 

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What RPM's are you crossing the stripe at?
Were you faster with the stock 32 or with the 31 tooth pulley?
 

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What RPM's are you crossing the stripe at?
Were you faster with the stock 32 or with the 31 tooth pulley?
The Warrior had most of these mods on it when I got it, so I can't tell you what differences the pulleys make. What I can answer it that I'm redlining in fourth gear a little more than ½ way through the traps.
 

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Maybe a swap to the a 32 might work better? And you mean that you are hitting 5800 or so cause of Ivan's?
 

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Maybe a swap to the a 32 might work better?
As I said above, the 31 tooth gets you off the line quicker, but will sacrifice at the top end. I only participate in bracket racing, not heads up. The key to bracket racing is consistency. So it wouldn't really matter either way so long as one is running a consistent ET. But the quicker snap of acceleration off the line sure is fun!

And you mean that you are hitting 5800 or so cause of Ivan's?
I got to thinking about my "redlining in the traps" comment, so I payed a little more attention to what was happening when I was racing yesterday. Turns out, I am NOT relining. Close but not quite. What's happening is I'm seeing the shift light go on when I reach 5000 rpm. Without ever really thinking about it, my little simian brain just plugged that red light into the redlining slot. I've still got 850 RPM to go before redlining! And it's coming on well past the the half way point in the traps. Early on when I was starting out, I used to shift to fifth at that point. But I discovered that the shift was actually hurting my time. Not by much, but time is measured in 1/1000s of a second in drag racing. And I've lost a couple of races by milliseconds. So I stopped doing the fourth to fifth shift. But I never really thought about it until now when you questioned me. So thank for asking about that!

Again, I'm definitely not the smartest guy when it comes to drag racing, especially the mechanical aspects. If anyone here has more knowledge and wants to either add a correction to my comments or offer a different opinion, by all means share it. :)
 

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Density Altitude is what it stands for. So it takes into account the weather like temp, humidity, barometric pressure and calculates a number. So the higher the number the harder your motor works and zaps a little power. It is like the "perceived altitude" you are racing at. So guys who live in the higher altitudes have less oxygen in the air therefore make less power meaning slower ET's.
BTW, I want to thank you for this post to Renegade05. I know that weather has an effect on performance but I wasn't knowledgeable in how exactly. I had never heard about DA before but now that I've found a link, I'm going to study more about it. Hopefully that will help me be more consistent because some days I'm all over the place with my ETs and when elimination rounds come up, I have no idea what to dial in. It's often mostly guesswork.
 
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