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Discussion Starter #1
Looking for the best wire to use to fire a relay for driving lights. I need one that is on with the key and off with the key. I do not have a diagram and do not want to use a wire that powers any computer functions.
 

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The NEW RELAY COIL can be wired to the Load Side of any of the following fuses shown in the Owner's Manual:
[*]Head Light [*]Signaling System [*]Ignition [/list]or wire an In-line Fuse to the Brown/Blue Line Side that feeds those fuses.

The Relay Contact for the new lights can be wired directly to the Battery with an In-Line Fuse for short circuit protection.
 

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Basically wha Alan said, but to expand a bit on what he said,

1) Most certainly use a new relay to control the lights, don't just try to scab the power off of some other load!

2) While you could use any of the three sources that Alan suggests, the headlight is the best choice because it doesn't add a load to the system until after the engine has been started. Where the other two choices could allow the driving lights could be on as soon as the key is turned on, before the engine is started. That could make the difference between riding and walking when the battery gets marginal.

3) Alan is spot on with the in-line fuse suggestion, but just to clarify, make sure the new fuse gets located as close to the battery as possible. The fuse needs to protect that new wire on the battery and it won't do it if it's some place like the headlight. If that new wire shorts out anywhere along it's length, and the fuse is beyond the short, you're still going to have one very badly damaged motorcycle.

I apoligize if you already know this, but with electricity, it's as easy to do wrong as it is right, and the cost can be pretty high.

Ride Safe, and don't forget to post a picture of those lights when they're finished.

Larry
 

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Discussion Starter #4
No apology needed. I have done tons of electrical work but reminders are always appreciated. I had intended to use a 30 Amp relay under the seat near the battery with a 15 Amp mini fuse. The head light would seem to be the perfect source for coil voltage, can you tell me which wire under the seat is the one I need?
 

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Okay, as near as I can tell with my feeble eyes, there are three wires going to the headlight relay under the seat,

Red/Yellow = Main power from the fuse to the headlight relay.
Yellow/Black = The ground coming from the ECU to turn on the headlight once the engine is started.
Green = The output from the relay to the dimmer switch. This is the one you want, but please confirm all of this with a meter. When you turn the bike on, there should be no voltage to ground on the green wire until you start the motor, then this wire should be hot.

I have an idea that would let you put the new relay in the headlight and control the driving lights from your regular dimmer, but I have to run out for a couple of hours. If you want the description for that let me know and I'll check in as soon as I return.

Again, please be very careful. I don't wnat you to mess your stuff up under my direction.

Back in a little while.

Larry
 

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Yes, this is a good solution if you don't want the new driving lights to come on until the head lights are active. You've not mentioned whether this new device will be switched or not?

As jetnoisebass elaborated the GRN output wire from the headlight relay is a good choice. I suggest you only trigger the new relay coil and that the relay contact be wired as i previously stated [/emoticons/emotion-5.gif] else you're liable to overload the factory headlight relay.
quote:Originally posted by mat4uscg

I had intended to use a 30 Amp relay under the seat near the battery with a 15 Amp mini fuse. The head light would seem to be the perfect source for coil voltage, can you tell me which wire under the seat is the one I need?
 

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Hi Alan, I assumed that he was getting his main power from the battery since he was fusing near the battery.

Tim, I think if I were doing this, to finish my earlier though, since it's driving lights, and you may not want them on all the time, I would put my fuse for the power under the seat as planned, connected to the battery, then run that hot wire into the headlight bucket to power the new relay. To control the relay, I would connect to the yellow wire going to the headlight bulb. Then the relay output to the driving lights. That way the driving lights would be off until you start the engine, then they would be controlled by the existing dimmer switch. Turn the low beams on and the driving lights go off, turn the high beam on and the driving light come on. You really wouldn't even need a seperate switch for the driving lights unless you really want one. If you did you could mount a toggle switch in the headlight. I think I'd just go with the existing dimmer.

Let us know what you decide to do.

Ride Safe!
Larry
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I will be placing the relay under the seat with the power to the lights coming from a 15 amp fused circuit directly from the battery. I did not intend to switch the coil but, as you have stated want to control the coil with the head light circuit if possible. I do want the small driving lights to be on all the time to increase my light footprint for others. I used the Kuryakyn Silver Bullets on my VTX 1300 and they worked well without being so large as to blind others, I also aim them to match my low beam path for the same reason. I am new to the Warrior and do not have all the wiring info, can you suggest a good download for the diagram, I saw a few links on this site but they are all old and no longer work.
Thanks so much for your help and attention to detail.
 

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The schematic is the last page & the index precedes it by several pages [/emoticons/emotion-5.gif] :http://www.paulmilner.com/yamaha/handbuch/handbuch.htm#warrior

You need to fill out your Gallery [/emoticons/emotion-6.gif] so we know the year, etc
quote:Originally posted by mat4uscg

I am new to the Warrior and do not have all the wiring info, can you suggest a good download for the diagram, I saw a few links on this site but they are all old and no longer work.
Thanks so much for your help and attention to detail.
 

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Tim, sounds like you have the plan. For what you want, the new relay location under the seat is the ticket. Find the existing headlight relay, and pull you control signal off of the green wire leaving the existing relay and you'll be good to go. No muss, no fuss, no extra switches. Good and clean. If you need the drivers off, you probably want the headlight of as well, and the key will take care of it.

Unfortunately I don't have a good suggestion on where to get the drawings on line. I bought the service manual, mainly because I didn't know any better at the time but I am glad to have it.

I haven't seen many Warriors with aux lights on them so I do hope you have the opportunity to post pictures when you're done, I'm interested in seeing it.

Thanks,
Larry
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks for the link to the manual. I downloaded it and have found the relay wire I need under the seat. I am working on the gallery stuff as I can, but mostly working on the 05 Warrior I just bought. I traded an 06 VTX 1300C and really love the Warrior.
You guys are a great help and I look forward to years of enjoyment both in riding and communicating.
I am working on a CAD drwaing for a light mounting system, not sure which way I will go yet, I will post it all when I can.

Thanks
 

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i don't want to get off topic, but when i go to that link above, and click on anything, all i get is a white page. what gives?
 

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iowawarrior....sounds like a browser issue with your PC. Try another machine if possible. Here it is again:http://www.paulmilner.com/yamaha/handbuch/handbuch.htm#warrior

quote:Originally posted by iowawarrior

i don't want to get off topic, but when i go to that link above, and click on anything, all i get is a white page. what gives?
 

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I've been lurking this topic for months intending this work as a winter mod this year.
Thanks to everyone for posting. I have Kury Silver Bullets already in-hand - and now there's these on the market:
http://www.kuryakyn.com/products.asp?bn=metric&ci=3900

I'm not sure which way I will go but THANK YOU ALL for this topic!
 
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