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I spied the piaa set from Kury the other day. I may look into them this winter. I would like to see a review from a member first though.
 

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Thanks everyone for helping with the wiring suggestions. I have mounted a set of PIAA 35 watt driving lights off the front forks, sperate waterproof switch and harness. I will post pics very soon.
All of the circuit is fused protected and just needed the best place to get juice to fire the relay from the auxillary switch.
 

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Hope I'm not pirating this too much, but kinda think it goes along with... Can a relay be used safely to jump power from the high beam to the low so both are on in the high position and just low in the low position? Didn't find much in the search. I've done this in my car safely, but with all the wires right behind the bulb, don't want any heat issues

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Hope I'm not pirating this too much, but kinda think it goes along with... Can a relay be used safely to jump power from the high beam to the low so both are on in the high position and just low in the low position? Didn't find much in the search. I've done this in my car safely, but with all the wires right behind the bulb, don't want any heat issues
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Keep in mind that there will be additional heat generated by this mod with both bulb filaments lit.
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Taken from this earlier thread: Working on a headlight mod and I have a quick question

The least invasive solution retaining the Headlight Relay, Auto-On circuit, is to branch into the Green/Blue wire of the main harness (gold banded) in the 6-Pin Opaque connector located in the HeadLight Housing and jumper directly to the Green Wire that attaches to the 3-Pin headlight plug with another branch connection.

This way you can just cut the wire and go back to stock. The remaining Green wire in the bars becomes a spare

HeadLight Circuit 101
They are not the same wire.
What follows is a detailed and lengthy explanation of the circuit and some Yamaha methodology based on the hardwire logic available in the Warrior wiring diagram.

This is an interesting circuit with some tricky details and should be beneficial for understanding other areas of the diagram.

For those that are interested i suggest you review this writer's hosted file, page 1, WIRING DIGRAM (WD) and read the last paragraph of Notes & Disclaimer that will elighten you as to understanding the Couplers.

Color coding of the wire is based on the following logic: The 2-short spaced dashes are the minor/secondary color and the longer dash is the major/primary color.
The major or primary color precedes the minor so in this case Red/Yellow for starters.

Included below is a cropped view of the hosted pdf file in jpeg format for discussion.
I have enhanced the OP's broken/burnt wire for clearity here (Red/Yel) that's within the hosted file but not to be found in the Yami factory diagram but can be identified by the pin colors in the connectors if you look carefully. Also a jpeg of the actual switch.



Item 48, Headlight Relay, is a single pole NO (normally open) contact 12vdc device. Positive power is received from a 15amp fuse (Item 66 not shown) through the Red/Yellow wire at the coil & NO contact. The relay is triggered via the Yellow/Black wire (negative polarity) from the ECU, Pin 33 (shown on pg 3 of the WD) after the motor starts.

The other side of the NO contact is a Green/Blue wire that provides the positive power exclusively to the Opaque coupler of the main harness.
It can be identified in the connector shown outside the Dotted Boundary (as described in last paragraph of Notes & Disclaimers) Bottom RH pin of connector.

Note matting device connector within dotted boundary. Bottom LH pin changes color to Red/Yellow.

Switch Box Housings & Rocker Switch Assemblies - ** Caution **
Photo taken from above thread
 

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I'm sorry for such a resurrection, but I'm following the steps of the original poster, and desperately looking for wire (under the seat) that will be hot when headlight is on.

@jetnoisebass - is this the green wire coming out from ECU, with whole bunch of other wires? I'm looking at the warrior schematics PDF and it says that this wire goes to the injector...

After reading this thread I was about to cut this wire and check if I have 12V on it after the engine is on, but now I don't think I understood you well.

Am I missing something? Or my schematics is wrong? BTW, I haven'f found cable triplet of Red/Yellow, Yellow/Black, Green close to each other under the seat, other than going in the ECU.

Okay, as near as I can tell with my feeble eyes, there are three wires going to the headlight relay under the seat,

Red/Yellow = Main power from the fuse to the headlight relay.
Yellow/Black = The ground coming from the ECU to turn on the headlight once the engine is started.
Green = The output from the relay to the dimmer switch. This is the one you want, but please confirm all of this with a meter. When you turn the bike on, there should be no voltage to ground on the green wire until you start the motor, then this wire should be hot.
(... )
Larry
 

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I'm sorry for such a resurrection, but I'm following the steps of the original poster, and desperately looking for wire (under the seat) that will be hot when headlight is on.



@jetnoisebass - is this the green wire coming out from ECU, with whole bunch of other wires? I'm looking at the warrior schematics PDF and it says that this wire goes to the injector...
  • Do not touch the Green wire at ECU Pin 6
After reading this thread I was about to cut this wire and check if I have 12V on it after the engine is on, but now I don't think I understood you well.

Am I missing something? Or my schematics is wrong? BTW, I haven'f found cable triplet of Red/Yellow, Yellow/Black, Green close to each other under the seat, other than going in the ECU.
Your answer is HERE .
You'll have to dig for the Green/Blue wire on Item 48, Headlight Relay, as shown in the enclosed attachment. This same wire is also available in the headlight housing.
 

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