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Discussion Starter #1
The bikes in for a Power Commander install and Dyno tune today. Mechanic has phoned and said he’s been working on it trying to remove the back firing but it is doing his head in ... I said they all do it when the pipes have been changed V&H Bigshot but he was confident he could tune it out but maybe not.

He was going to check the pipes aren’t leaking around the barrels & keep trying. If he has no luck and I pick up the bike would doing the AIS mod at home upset the Dyno tunes map on the Power Commander. ??

One thing we did notice was a previous owner has done the ECU Bump, the wire into the ECU has been cut and joined.

Will tuning the PC negate any increases that may or may not have been done with the ‘bump’

Only other mods K&N filters, exhaust has no baffles either.

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Discussion Starter #4
Yes I’m happy, de acceleration popping has been 99% eliminated and the power delivery is so much smoother than before.

I’ve ordered a pair of V&H ‘quiet’ baffles also on the recommendation of the tuner guy to give the V&H staggered Bigshots some back pressure. His experience of the Dyno sees a slight drop in torque with straight through pipes.


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I found it wise to un-bump back to stock before re-tuning my PCiii-USB back when I had it. Those who did not save the factory CO1 CO2 numbers (or did not get from prior owner) would set both to zero before re-tuning their power commander. Its all good, and it avoids future issues.

I also found it wise to reset the three rpm range LED lights on the PCiiiUSB back to center (zero) before re-mapping or dynotune.

With my Cobra CVT I have played with Bump changes in order to solve off-idle hesitation. This is because the CVT tuners do not actually manage air:fuel at idle. But they do retain the status moment-by-moment in memory so it works well enough most of the time. And the CVT purposefully runs a hint rich. But I still get way more MPG than before (advertised was 39 and I am always well above 42 and if playing-nice I get ~50). So the tuner is working well. Zero pops zero backfiring (-AIS, VBAK, S*2-1-2, CVT, IVANS).

I think the ECU Bump is important. But if you have a Power Commander or similar map-based tuner then its better to leave CO1 CO2 stock (or zero-zero) and use the Power Commander to map starting at 500rpm or 750 rpm depending on map resolution, and at the smallest rpm resolution (like every 250 rpm or 500 rpm) so off-idle can be mapped along with the rest of the rpm range. Its smart to map one rpm cell lower than warm-idle (850~950 rpm) so when you decelerate quickly you can avoid the big boom inside the exhaust caused by excess fuel issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
We didn’t notice the ECU wire had been cut and joined until the PC-V was being fitted so I really have no idea what had been changed if anything. I mentioned this to the tuner but his thoughts were he would be changing all the settings right through the Rev range anyway.

I’m not saying he knows it all but he does seem very professional and has tuned lots of bikes over the years, Jap and USA. He owns a worked HD he puts down the drag strip.

Anyhow .. end result is the bike is running extremely well, very smooth.




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Yes I saw that. I expect CO1 CO2 were bumped by prior owner, it seems like 99% of the time when wires are modified its bumped. But who knows because prior owners seldom communicate the original CO1 CO2 values.

My thinking is maybe the shop would have found it easier to tune out the pop and bang if the stock CO1 CO2 values were changed and could be restored. No worries mate!

I'm real happy for you, its a long road and you have now accomplished a milestone event that is a watershed moment in your Beast's evolution revolution. Go ride the snot out of it!
 
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