Follow up on breakin. Man I'm really getting windy here. Oh well. The same theory holds true as to break in on plain bearings in the motor. Heat build up is what destroys the oil barrior between bearings and shafts. As a new motor is smoothing any high spots in shaft and bearing contact, these spots produce more heat. Higher rpm produces more heat in these areas, therefore they recomend lower rpms during break in. Ball and roller bearings do not really have a critical break in period, only the plain bearings. Your lower end may be already broke in but your upper end is not. Therefore , the breakin period. With todays technology in more accurate machining clearances and superior metalogy, break in is not as critical as it used to be. Still you want to seat those rings properly. A Warrior engine does not spin very fast rpm wise compared to others, but its piston speed is right up there. 5 grand on a Warrior is like 12 grand on a sport bike, the pistons are moving that fast at lower rpm's. They have to cover more distance(stroke) at the same rpm is why.A little note as far as honing the cylinders. When I was a mechanic for Honda in the eithties when the nicocell cyls came out, Honda told us not to hone. The rings will seat themselves. Kind of makes sense as the cylinder is so hard it does not wear much anyway. What you really don't want to do is scratch that cylinder more than you should. I know some of the mechanics would take some fine emery cloth and hand sand some crosshatch on them. Probably for their own peace of mind as it seems like the rings seated well without. KC.

 

Warm her up good and break her in ...HARD!
Did just that with both my R6 and Warr and never needed to top any of them off between oil changes. Biggest indicator of well seated rings.

I didn't use syntec until 5K and will ask the mech to fill her with dino gunk until she's broken in again.

 

Suggestion from anyone? Not really set up with stand, tools, etc. to do an oil change and go back to non-synthetic, if I leave the semi-synthetic oil in is there still the chance it can be broken in properly the hard way, and it just might take a little longer and more effort? After the tranny recall with the new rings and synthetic oil, it did feel like a little oomph had been taken out. Started the hard break in going around the 60-ish mph range and seemed to help a little, but had to have it going 120mph accel and decel before it started to feel like there was some of the old gal coming back, but still not like it was before. Darn this recall!

 

Cruzr, your mech shouldn't have put in syntec so soon. Yes the 600 mile is your first oil change but technically, the breakin period is up to 1500 miles.

I actually kept using conventional until 5K and then switched to synt. Now they'll be draining her before the recall and I asked for the dino juice once more for probably another 1000 miles.

I'd drain what you got and go conventional grade. You can drain her without the stand. Get yourself a 17mm wrench, filter and do yourself a favor. Do a search on oil changes, it's quite simple, two bolts.

Good luck.

 

Don't panic yet Cruzr. Seemed like mine kept running stronger clear up to 500 miles or so. Keep loading the rings in short spurts, don't have to do 120 for that and wouldn't hurt to drop the oil and throw in some standard non-syn. If after 500 miles you still don't think she's the same, take her back to the dealer and have them check her over. KC.

 

I am with the "ride it hard" guys. The new HC pistons/rings got a good seating last night. Don't know if it is just my desire that it run better with the HC pistons but it does seem to pull harder. Going to dyno it after a few hundred miles.