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Discussion Starter #1
For all those that don't have the PCIII (all three of us) here is my little, simple way of adjusting the ECU. By the way, rswarrior.com, Yamaha Motorcycles, and I take no responsibility for you frying your ECU by following these instructions. Follow them at your own risk. I am not a professional mechanic, and I do NOT use really big words to describe the things I do. So if you have any questions feel free to ask away.

First pull off the seat, and little foam thing from under your seat and that will expose the ECU.

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Free up the little retaining strap from the ECU and then locate wire #27 and #29 in the harness. These two wires will come free from the bundle if you give them a little pull. Note: Don't try and pull them out of the harness itself, just the taped up bundle of wires! You will notice that wire 27 and 29 are actually just a loop wire that tells the ECU which mode to operate in. BTW, the wire will be yellow with a red stripe down it.
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Now for the fun stuff... First, don't remove the harness from the ECU. There is no need to and it really just slows things down. Take a pair of wire cutters and cut the wire in half and then install a pair insulated quick disconnects. I got a pack of them from Lowes for less than $2.

Next, make yourself a little jumper cable out of an alligator clip, piece of wire, and a matching quick disconnect to mate up to pin #29.
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Attach the jumper to pin #29 and then attach the alligator clip to some part of the frame. I use the helmet lock thingy (yep, technical term). Yes, pin #27 will have nothing plugged into it for this portion of the adjustment.
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Now you're ready to adjust the ECU. First hold both buttons on the tach down and then turn the key to "On". Continue to hold the buttons down until "DIAG" appears where the clock used to be. Now let go of both buttons.

Press Select and "Co" will appear and now hold both buttons again until "Co 01" appears. This is the air/fuel mix of the rear cylinder. Hold both buttons again and a number will appear in the lower LCD panel. Write this number down because this is your baseline that the machine was set at from the factory.

To adjust this number either press Select or Reset and the number will change. Select = larger number, which = richer. Reset = smaller number, which = leaner.

Once you have adjusted this to your liking press both buttons and you will return to the Cylinder select option, saying "Co 01". Now press the Reset button and "Co 01" will change to "Co 02". Hold both buttons down again and adjust the front cylinder the same way as the front. Don't forget to write down the number before you start so you can have a base line.

Now once you've done both cylinders, turn off the key and remove the jumper from the ECU. Reattach the quick connects, and make sure they aren't touching anything that could cause them to rub or short out and you'll be good to go.

BTW, I carry my jumper with me in my tool kit just because you never know when you might need it.

As far as how much do you adjust the ECU, you're on your own. All bikes are different, and with different mods people have vastly different settings. Try searching this wonderful site and there will be loads of information to pick from.

But here is one little tip on the popular "What number should I adjust to" question. There is no right or wrong answer for any given setup. A good rule of thumb is to just adjust each cylinder the same amount. How much depends on the altitude where you live, all the mods you've done, how clean your filters are, and many more factors. It's just going to have to be a trial and error type thing.

I hope this helps someone out a little.[
]
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Actually, I copied other sites out there. But none of them were posted "on" this site and were always down or something. So I updated this site with the instructions and better pictures.
 

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**** I think I'll give this a go and save a bunch of money for now.Ican see me buying a commander in the future.Thanks for all your help
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Look at it this way, if it doesn't work out for you, than you can always add a PCIII in the future. You'll only be out $3, and that's not too bad if you ask me.
 

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Will doing this mod void the factory warrenty.
I'm assuming it will since you are cutting the wires.
Also is there another way to adjust the ECU?
Thanks
Bubba
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Bubba, yes there is another way to do it. It requires you to pull the harness off of the ECU and then pull out pin 27 and then ground it to the frame. And to be honest with you, I've never heard of the ECU adjust voiding warranty. Actually, when I got my speedstar pipe, the Yamaha tech offered to adjust my ECU for $75.
 

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quote:Originally posted by DFW_Warrior

For all those that don't have the PCIII (all three of us) here is my little, simple way of adjusting the ECU. By the way, rswarrior.com, Yamaha Motorcycles, and I take no responsibility for you frying your ECU by following these instructions. Follow them at your own risk. I am not a professional mechanic, and I do NOT use really big words to describe the things I do. So if you have any questions feel free to ask away.

First pull off the seat, and little foam thing from under your seat and that will expose the ECU.

Insert Image:

47.92 KB
Insert Image:

53.21 KB

Free up the little retaining strap from the ECU and then locate wire #27 and #29 in the harness. These two wires will come free from the bundle if you give them a little pull. Note: Don't try and pull them out of the harness itself, just the taped up bundle of wires! You will notice that wire 27 and 29 are actually just a loop wire that tells the ECU which mode to operate in. BTW, the wire will be yellow with a red stripe down it.
Insert Image:

54.8 KB

Now for the fun stuff... First, don't remove the harness from the ECU. There is no need to and it really just slows things down. Take a pair of wire cutters and cut the wire in half and then install a pair insulated quick disconnects. I got a pack of them from Lowes for less than $2.

Next, make yourself a little jumper cable out of an alligator clip, piece of wire, and a matching quick disconnect to mate up to pin #29.
Insert Image:

41.69 KB

Attach the jumper to pin #29 and then attach the alligator clip to some part of the frame. I use the helmet lock thingy. Yes, pin #27 will have nothing plugged into it for this portion of the adjustment.
Insert Image:

52.12 KB

Now you're ready to adjust the ECU. First hold both buttons on the tach down and then turn the key to "Run". Continue to hold the buttons down until "DIAG" appears where the clock used to be. Now let go of both buttons.

Press Select and "Co" will appear and now hold both buttons again until "Co 01" appears. This is the air/fuel mix of the rear cylinder. Hold both buttons again and a number will appear in the lower LCD panel. Write this number down because this is your baseline that the machine was set at from the factory.

To adjust this number either press Select or Reset and the number will change. Select = larger number, which = richer. Reset = smaller number, which = leaner.

Once you have adjusted this to your liking press both buttons and you will return to the Cylinder select option, saying "Co 01". Now press the Reset button and "Co 01" will change to "Co 02". Hold both buttons down again and adjust the front cylinder the same way as the front. Don't forget to write down the number before you start so you can have a base line.

Now once you've done both cylinders, turn off the key and remove the jumper from the ECU. Reattach the quick connects, and make sure they aren't touching anything that could cause them to rub or short out and you'll be good to go.

BTW, I carry my jumper with me in my tool kit just because you never know when you might need it.

As far as how much do you adjust the ECU, you're on your own. All bikes are different, and with different mods people have vastly different settings. Try searching this wonderful site and there will be loads of information to pick from.

But here is one little tip on the popular "What number should I adjust to" question. There is no right or wrong answer for any given setup. A good rule of thumb is to just adjust each cylinder the same amount. How much depends on the altitude where you live, all the mods you've done, how clean your filters are, and many more factors. It's just going to have to be a trial and error type thing.

I hope this helps someone out a little.[/emoticons/emotion-2.gif]



Thanks...this is good stuff....
 

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This might be a dumb question, but I want to double check before doing this mod and not frying my ecu at the end. Which one is #27 or #29?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
upNover, if you look on the wire harness itself, there are little numbers that idenify the wires. I had to get a flashlight and really look hard for them, but they are there.
 

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this way of adjusting the ECU is alot easier then it sounds it will take you longer to locate the right wire to cut then it will to adjust the ECU, its cake, dont be afraid
 

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yeah, I saw the numbers when I went back to the bike after posting. Thanks! It's sunny 60 degrees outside and rush hour should be over. Out for a ride fellas!
 

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Here is a clearer shot of the wire....I was a little confused as to which one I should be working with so I thought maybe a better view might help others.

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ok i understand all of that but if one of my friends has allready done that could i take my ecu out of my bike and put it in his and change all of that and then put it in my bike is it still going to rember that i change it. cause i would really not like to cut the harness if all possable
 

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Discussion Starter #17
No it won't remember the settings. It is the ECU itself that remembers the settings. I wouldn't worry too much about cutting one wire in the harness. Don't worry, you won't mess up anything.

There is another way to pull the wire out, but it involves removing the harness from the ECU and pulling one of the pins out of the harness. It takes a lot longer to do, but it can be done.
 

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Can somebody give me an idea of how much is one point and if I just put samson pipes on would one click be close to what I need or two or???.
I know that I should be able to just ride it and tell but I am not that knowledgeable[:I]
 

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Help Please guys!! I have the Churchkeys BAK and Vance&Hines 2-1 Pro-pipe. I live at about 1000ft above sealevel. I just did this self ECU adjstment. My stok setting was C01= -3 and CO2=+2. I just bumped it up 2points on each cylinder so it is now -1 and +4. Should this be good or wold any one recommend to bumkp it up more? I went for a ride and honestly I dont know what Im looking for.

BEN
 

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Discussion Starter #20
You are going to have to pull you left side plugs and look at them to tell for sure. All we can do on here is guess, and that's not really very accurate. You don't want your plugs to be black or ash white. I nice golden tan color is what you are after.
 
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