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After bumping the ecu a couple more times n just finished bumping it again plu2 on both cylinders front to +4 n rear +8 this is how plugs look first pic is frnt plug second pic rear plug seems like still needs little more wrk.still need to take it on a run after last + 2 bump opinions ?

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After bumping the ecu a couple more times n just finished bumping it again plu2 on both cylinders front to +4 n rear +8 this is how plugs look first pic is frnt plug second pic rear plug seems like still needs little more wrk.still need to take it on a run after last + 2 bump opinions ?

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Bro. My Cobra PowrPro is up for sale now that i got my PCV & Autotune installed. You still interested? Been used maybe like 2 months or so. Plug and play and will get rid of the running lean issue. And you dont need to setup or configure anything. i need to sell it to recoop some of my funds. PM me.
 

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Great Write up!!!

For all those that don't have the PCIII (all three of us) here is my little, simple way of adjusting the ECU. By the way, rswarrior.com, Yamaha Motorcycles, and I take no responsibility for you frying your ECU by following these instructions. Follow them at your own risk. I am not a professional mechanic, and I do NOT use really big words to describe the things I do. So if you have any questions feel free to ask away.

First pull off the seat, and little foam thing from under your seat and that will expose the ECU.

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Free up the little retaining strap from the ECU and then locate wire #27 and #29 in the harness. These two wires will come free from the bundle if you give them a little pull. Note: Don't try and pull them out of the harness itself, just the taped up bundle of wires! You will notice that wire 27 and 29 are actually just a loop wire that tells the ECU which mode to operate in. BTW, the wire will be yellow with a red stripe down it.
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Now for the fun stuff... First, don't remove the harness from the ECU. There is no need to and it really just slows things down. Take a pair of wire cutters and cut the wire in half and then install a pair insulated quick disconnects. I got a pack of them from Lowes for less than $2.

Next, make yourself a little jumper cable out of an alligator clip, piece of wire, and a matching quick disconnect to mate up to pin #29.
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Attach the jumper to pin #29 and then attach the alligator clip to some part of the frame. I use the helmet lock thingy (yep, technical term). Yes, pin #27 will have nothing plugged into it for this portion of the adjustment.
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Now you're ready to adjust the ECU. First hold both buttons on the tach down and then turn the key to "On". Continue to hold the buttons down until "DIAG" appears where the clock used to be. Now let go of both buttons.

Press Select and "Co" will appear and now hold both buttons again until "Co 01" appears. This is the air/fuel mix of the rear cylinder. Hold both buttons again and a number will appear in the lower LCD panel. Write this number down because this is your baseline that the machine was set at from the factory.

To adjust this number either press Select or Reset and the number will change. Select = larger number, which = richer. Reset = smaller number, which = leaner.

Once you have adjusted this to your liking press both buttons and you will return to the Cylinder select option, saying "Co 01". Now press the Reset button and "Co 01" will change to "Co 02". Hold both buttons down again and adjust the front cylinder the same way as the front. Don't forget to write down the number before you start so you can have a base line.

Now once you've done both cylinders, turn off the key and remove the jumper from the ECU. Reattach the quick connects, and make sure they aren't touching anything that could cause them to rub or short out and you'll be good to go.

BTW, I carry my jumper with me in my tool kit just because you never know when you might need it.

As far as how much do you adjust the ECU, you're on your own. All bikes are different, and with different mods people have vastly different settings. Try searching this wonderful site and there will be loads of information to pick from.

But here is one little tip on the popular "What number should I adjust to" question. There is no right or wrong answer for any given setup. A good rule of thumb is to just adjust each cylinder the same amount. How much depends on the altitude where you live, all the mods you've done, how clean your filters are, and many more factors. It's just going to have to be a trial and error type thing.

I hope this helps someone out a little.[
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Cant seem to get this to work on my 02. I can never get the CO to show up... only diag, then starts going through the number list... am I doing something wrong?
 

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Cant seem to get this to work on my 02. I can never get the CO to show up... only diag, then starts going through the number list... am I doing something wrong?
If you are getting "DIAG" to appear you are most of the way there.

Then just push select. You dont have to hold it in or anything.

So while it reads "Diag".
Press select once.
It should now display "CO"
Then push and hold both buttons until "CO 01" displays. Release.
Then push and hold both buttons again and a number will be displayed.
From here record that number so you know where it was set from the factory. And you can use select and reset buttons to adjust the rich/lean setting.
When done with that cylinder press and hold both buttons again and it will go back to "CO 01".
Use the reset or select button to choose "CO 02".
Repeat the process.
Turn the bike off and plug everything back in where it belongs.
Just make sure you keep the factory settings somewhere safe.
 

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This thread has been a great help over the years. It sucks that the pics aren't working any more, but the instructions are excellent.

I did it slightly differently by pulling pin #27 out of the harness connector at the ECU and and grounding it to the battery ground, thus grounding pin #29. There was just enough tension to hold it in place without an alligator clip, but a clip would probably be better. This way requires no tools or permanent modifications to the bike.

First remove your seat, and foam cover and remove the strap holding your ECU down. The bike/key should be off for this.
248601


Next locate the yellow wire with a red trace connecting pins #27 and #29.
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Then gently tug them out of the wire sheathing. They only go in an inch or so.
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Once they are freed, disconnect the ECU from the harness. There are 3 white bars in the connector that lock in the pins. Gently push in on bar under pin #27 with a fingernail to unlock the pins. It should push down about 1/8" or so with a bit of a click. CAUTION: The pins are now only held in by friction. Be very careful not to pull out any pins you don't want out, as getting them all back in the right place could be very time consuming. They don't come out on there own, but be careful moving the connector or harness around with the pins unlocked.
248604


Pull the wire with pin #27 out.
248605


Press the white bar back into place from the other side locking the pins in place again and reinstall the ECU. Grounding that pin, pin #27 grounds pin #29 of the ECU.
248606


From here you just follow the excellent instructions at the start of this thread to see or change your CO settings.

Once you are done, remove the ECU, unlock the white bar, reinstall pin #27, relock the white bar, reinstall the ECU and put the foam cover and seat back on.

Other than the wire connecting pins #27 and #29 not being in the wire sheathing any more, nothing has been permanently modified. No tools or other parts needed.
 

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……….. I did it slightly differently by pulling pin #27 out of the harness connector at the ECU and and grounding it to the battery ground, thus grounding pin #29. There was just enough tension to hold it in place without an alligator clip, but a clip would probably be better. This way requires no tools or permanent modifications to the bike. ………….
That's similar to how I've adjusted mine in the early days (2004-2005) but I didn't pull the loop out of the harness and instead used a shop alligator jumper on both ends to do the deed ;)
 

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That's similar to how I've adjusted mine in the early days (2004-2005) but I didn't pull the loop out of the harness and instead used a shop alligator jumper on both ends to do the deed ;)
It's probably one of your old post where I read how to release the pins from the connector. I liked the idea of not permanently changing anything.

I do think that if I was going to make a lot of different changes I would cut the wire and install connectors to make each change quicker and easier. The main reason I went this way was that I didn't have any connectors to install and wanted to make some changes right then.
 

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This thread has been a great help over the years. It sucks that the pics aren't working any more, but the instructions are excellent.

I did it slightly differently by pulling pin #27 out of the harness connector at the ECU and and grounding it to the battery ground, thus grounding pin #29. There was just enough tension to hold it in place without an alligator clip, but a clip would probably be better. This way requires no tools or permanent modifications to the bike.

First remove your seat, and foam cover and remove the strap holding your ECU down. The bike/key should be off for this.
View attachment 248601

Next locate the yellow wire with a red trace connecting pins #27 and #29.
View attachment 248602

Then gently tug them out of the wire sheathing. They only go in an inch or so.
View attachment 248603

Once they are freed, disconnect the ECU from the harness. There are 3 white bars in the connector that lock in the pins. Gently push in on bar under pin #27 with a fingernail to unlock the pins. It should push down about 1/8" or so with a bit of a click. CAUTION: The pins are now only held in by friction. Be very careful not to pull out any pins you don't want out, as getting them all back in the right place could be very time consuming. They don't come out on there own, but be careful moving the connector or harness around with the pins unlocked.
View attachment 248604

Pull the wire with pin #27 out.
View attachment 248605

Press the white bar back into place from the other side locking the pins in place again and reinstall the ECU. Grounding that pin, pin #27 grounds pin #29 of the ECU. View attachment 248606

From here you just follow the excellent instructions at the start of this thread to see or change your CO settings.

Once you are done, remove the ECU, unlock the white bar, reinstall pin #27, relock the white bar, reinstall the ECU and put the foam cover and seat back on.

Other than the wire connecting pins #27 and #29 not being in the wire sheathing any more, nothing has been permanently modified. No tools or other parts needed.
Thank you!! Just did this today and it worked perfect and was very easy. Had trouble getting the pin back in to clip again but just had to keep adjusting until it clipped in, used a clip to hold the pin to the helmet lock.

My CO1 is -1 and CO2 is -6. With drag pipes with baffles and a speedstar intake it has never been changed I dont believe. I guess I could change it and see what happens lol.

I did however notice my ecu is not strapped down by the rubber strap. My strap goes over a plastic shield that goes over the battery. Anyone have a picture under their ECU? I want to orientate everything properly.
 
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