I bought my 2008 yamaha warrior xv1700pc around 2 months ago and when I bought it I noticed that it had the modification to the ecu for bumping it to a higher air fuel mixture amount. I began to research as this mod seemed to good to be true.... everything I have found online says that the bump only affects idle or just off idle... even the yamaha manufacturers say so. I purchased my power commander 5 shortly after because I thought I'd better have it so I can tune it for the mods I had planned. Currently I run vance and hines big radius pipes with stock loud baffles and cones filters straight to the throttle body... I messed with the ecu bump slightly but I didnt think it was worth my time because of all the negative it surrounding it... about 2 weeks ago I found a small thread mentioning churchkey and him saying that if you bump up the ecu 35 points per cylinder and then check your plugs you will see that it does in fact affect the entire map at all rpms... finding this thread I set my power commander to all zeros and reset my throttle position sensor to what it was before I installed it.. after 1 week I removed the power commander and this is week 2 or 1 week without the power commander at all and the bike runs really well so long as I set the ecu bump correctly and resync my throttle bodies. When I bought the bike my ecu was set to CO1=4 and CO2=2...but now that I have mods installed and such I have CO1=20 and CO2=17 and I resynced the throttle bodies and this puppy runs like a raped ape... I apologise of others have already found this conclusion but I couldn't find enough info about it so decided to post about it... the ECU bump is way way more than a bump and I am going to continue to mess with it as my cylinder cut off seems to have been gone away with as well now... any questions from others I will answer to the best of my knowledge but I credit Churchkey for the original thread and wherever the person he told got the info from him at..thanks guys and thanks churchkey! My fellow warrior lovers I hope this helps with something as it helped me get rid of my power commander and my bike is like new again with whatever mods I want.
Ok so the first pic here is of the mod itself. You splice the #29 pin wire, which is yellow with a red stripe, with a plug that can be plugged into itself or left apart a tiny bit for alligator clips to grab the metal and ground the wire to the frame... then you bump your ecu....the second pic is of the side of my warrior where you can see that all my wires are now stock and no my K&N cones are in the background on my throttle bodies as stated previously I have my CO1=20 and CO2=17 currently and it seems to run great once warmed up. I recently adjusted the valves myself as well, and synced my throttle bodies with a cheap homemade vacuum gauge. I will post better pics if you guys want but I am sure others have nodded their warriors similarly I just want you all to know that you dont need to waste your money anymore on a power commander... just bump that sucker the right amount and resync the throttle bodies and viola!
The ECU Bump CO1 CO2 manages from warm idle up to about 1100~1300rpm depending. After that it runs native on the ECU map so depending on mods you could run super-lean in mid-and-high-range rpm's. So a fuel manager might still be needed. I run both (ECU Bump and Cobra CVT fuel manager) and its effective across the rpm range. Plus Ivan's so have those benefits. But I agree there are things you can run Bumped and let the native ecu fuel map handle the higher rpm's. Nice work. Looks like you've been around bikes awhile!
That's what I'm saying, through experiments I. Have proven the re isnt a need. I can take pics of spark plugs too if you need. I know what everything else says about it... but actually try it because my results say that it works for the whole map. I'll take pics of plugs later....
I used the electronic one that came with the power commander to check it as AZwarrior has great videos about it on his youtube channel. I believe mine was from .632 to 3.681... that was what came up before I reset it.. the book says it should read .605-.755 at idle and ohms should be there round 4-6 I just re adjusted it like I was resetting it after cleaning the throttle bodies at servicing..
Here is one of my spark plugs after 1000 plus miles at what im running at and nothing has over heated or even gotten hot besides normal temps for running the engine. As well as my spark plugs you can see are doing well and holding up and are no longer carbon fouked as they were being with the power commander and every map I used would atleast a bit carbon foul my plugs... I'm not saying I'm right or that anyone else is wrong im simply showing my awesome results and that with my own personal stock warrior. I was able to strip down and put cones on the throttle bodies
and just bump my ecu with great results and I hope others try too cuz it's way more cool than we think..
The spark plug looks like you mostly ride around town, and could be a little higher-rpm too but mostly lower-rpm. Is that right?
I would expect more pronounced heat markings in the non-projecting-threads AND less wet-appearing material on the protruding threads after 1000 miles of highway riding.
But the porcelain is nearly perfect and the firing surfaces look sharp.
Just curious, hope you don't mind me asking!!
I'm wondering if the big numbers in CO1/2 adjustment are wetting the plugs and they dry between stop lights or on the road, above ~1300rpm?
What were CO1/2 set at before you bumped it, and do you have a guess if it was ever bumped prior?
Actually I ride freeway daily up to freeway speed. But I will continue posting updates and we will see how not goes. I have followed you on youtube for a while and you know your stuff. I know this has been amazing me as I see it happening but I wanted to try it and its working.
Perhaps the people selling them should know that too maybe... or atleast tell others that..... either way it was a waste of time because I never needed it anyways
Also if you want to check your plugs to see how it is running at WOT you need to go thru the gears at WOT and turn off the motor immediately, pull over and pull some plugs to get a real reading.
You'll want to add an Inlet Filter for the LCV (linear control valve).
Top RH corner @ Neck is the Inlet Hose (LCV) that formally connected to the Factory Air Box. You're currently bringing in unfiltered air to the T/B's when the engine is cold
Nice thread.
ECU 'bump' is a great tuning tool.
I used the same bracket you did for the temp sensor to mount a grounded third pin micro switch under the seat to make adjustments quick and easy.
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