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I'm planning on flashing my ecu somewhere in the near future, but now i'm curious as to what ivan does with the co numbers when he flashes. I've been trying to find the original thread from when ivan was still developing the flash... if anyone could link it i'd appreciate it.
Ivan does nothing with the CO1/2 numbers. They are in a partition area separate in the ECU. Somewhere in the original two IVAN's Flash threads he covers this ground.

Ref1: Ivan's Reflash of ECU Reviews

Ref2: Reflash ECU for performance and rev limit gains -...
 

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I bought my 2008 yamaha warrior xv1700pc around 2 months ago and when I bought it I noticed that it had the modification to the ecu for bumping it to a higher air fuel mixture amount. I began to research as this mod seemed to good to be true.... everything I have found online says that the bump only affects idle or just off idle... even the yamaha manufacturers say so. I purchased my power commander 5 shortly after because I thought I'd better have it so I can tune it for the mods I had planned. Currently I run vance and hines big radius pipes with stock loud baffles and cones filters straight to the throttle body... I messed with the ecu bump slightly but I didnt think it was worth my time because of all the negative it surrounding it... about 2 weeks ago I found a small thread mentioning churchkey and him saying that if you bump up the ecu 35 points per cylinder and then check your plugs you will see that it does in fact affect the entire map at all rpms... finding this thread I set my power commander to all zeros and reset my throttle position sensor to what it was before I installed it.. after 1 week I removed the power commander and this is week 2 or 1 week without the power commander at all and the bike runs really well so long as I set the ecu bump correctly and resync my throttle bodies. When I bought the bike my ecu was set to CO1=4 and CO2=2...but now that I have mods installed and such I have CO1=20 and CO2=17 and I resynced the throttle bodies and this puppy runs like a raped ape... I apologise of others have already found this conclusion but I couldn't find enough info about it so decided to post about it... the ECU bump is way way more than a bump and I am going to continue to mess with it as my cylinder cut off seems to have been gone away with as well now... any questions from others I will answer to the best of my knowledge but I credit Churchkey for the original thread and wherever the person he told got the info from him at..thanks guys and thanks churchkey! My fellow warrior lovers I hope this helps with something as it helped me get rid of my power commander and my bike is like new again with whatever mods I want.
I'm interested
I bought my 2008 yamaha warrior xv1700pc around 2 months ago and when I bought it I noticed that it had the modification to the ecu for bumping it to a higher air fuel mixture amount. I began to research as this mod seemed to good to be true.... everything I have found online says that the bump only affects idle or just off idle... even the yamaha manufacturers say so. I purchased my power commander 5 shortly after because I thought I'd better have it so I can tune it for the mods I had planned. Currently I run vance and hines big radius pipes with stock loud baffles and cones filters straight to the throttle body... I messed with the ecu bump slightly but I didnt think it was worth my time because of all the negative it surrounding it... about 2 weeks ago I found a small thread mentioning churchkey and him saying that if you bump up the ecu 35 points per cylinder and then check your plugs you will see that it does in fact affect the entire map at all rpms... finding this thread I set my power commander to all zeros and reset my throttle position sensor to what it was before I installed it.. after 1 week I removed the power commander and this is week 2 or 1 week without the power commander at all and the bike runs really well so long as I set the ecu bump correctly and resync my throttle bodies. When I bought the bike my ecu was set to CO1=4 and CO2=2...but now that I have mods installed and such I have CO1=20 and CO2=17 and I resynced the throttle bodies and this puppy runs like a raped ape... I apologise of others have already found this conclusion but I couldn't find enough info about it so decided to post about it... the ECU bump is way way more than a bump and I am going to continue to mess with it as my cylinder cut off seems to have been gone away with as well now... any questions from others I will answer to the best of my knowledge but I credit Churchkey for the original thread and wherever the person he told got the info from him at..thanks guys and thanks churchkey! My fellow warrior lovers I hope this helps with something as it helped me get rid of my power commander and my bike is like new again with whatever mods I want.
Hi, I'm interested in what you used and how you sync'd your throttle bodies.
I made a simple tube manometer with oil to check mine.
At idle the left or rear throttle body is pulling more. At 2500- 3000 rpm where the bike runs typically, it evens out. This is where it was set stock. Is this what you've found? 2004 roadstar warrior. Only mods I have are Cobra slip on from 2004, recent Ivans ecu flash and removal of the tank air cleaner cover. I put ivans gram bracket for more air flow.
Also I've been told by my shop that the sync rarely has to be done if ever.
Thanks. Dave
 

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Well, with enough time he could but time is money and there is no benefit to us because the factory already provides tech access to CO1/2. BTW it seems like many keep a record of the factory numbers and many more keep a record of these numbers at time of purchase. But too few communicate their CO1/2 Settings when referring their PC(×) map values to others. And even fewer realize the value to taking this into account when dynotuning / mapping. This is a big reason that I stay with the Cobra CVT (Continually Variable Tuning).
 

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Discussion Starter #45
I
I'm interested

Hi, I'm interested in what you used and how you sync'd your throttle bodies.
I made a simple tube manometer with oil to check mine.
At idle the left or rear throttle body is pulling more. At 2500- 3000 rpm where the bike runs typically, it evens out. This is where it was set stock. Is this what you've found? 2004 roadstar warrior. Only mods I have are Cobra slip on from 2004, recent Ivans ecu flash and removal of the tank air cleaner cover. I put ivans gram bracket for more air flow.
Also I've been told by my shop that the sync rarely has to be done if ever.
Thanks. Dave
Built my own homemade vacuum lines out of clear tubing and two stroke oil and to sync the throttle bodies I used my longest screw driver and lots of small turns and patience.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
I mostly ecu bump now for fuel tuning with my stock ecu only an It works awesome and my bike runs great anybody near me in oregon with a warrior I'll prove it to you in person too.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Well, with enough time he could but time is money and there is no benefit to us because the factory already provides tech access to CO1/2. BTW it seems like many keep a record of the factory numbers and many more keep a record of these numbers at time of purchase. But too few communicate their CO1/2 Settings when referring their PC(×) map values to others. And even fewer realize the value to taking this into account when dynotuning / mapping. This is a big reason that I stay with the Cobra CVT (Continually Variable Tuning).
I still prefer the bump now. My bike runs so perfect it's awesome.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
I'm interested

Hi, I'm interested in what you used and how you sync'd your throttle bodies.
I made a simple tube manometer with oil to check mine.
At idle the left or rear throttle body is pulling more. At 2500- 3000 rpm where the bike runs typically, it evens out. This is where it was set stock. Is this what you've found? 2004 roadstar warrior. Only mods I have are Cobra slip on from 2004, recent Ivans ecu flash and removal of the tank air cleaner cover. I put ivans gram bracket for more air flow.
Also I've been told by my shop that the sync rarely has to be done if ever.
Thanks. Dave
This is a google img of pretty much what I did it with
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Looks good. For those who follow, then just check the service manual for the vacuum connection points that accomodate the sensor, and other unique bits if info. Gotta say sometimes I miss naturally aspirated!
[/QUOTE

Hooking the lines up to the vacuum ports on the throttle bodies and then turning off the bike to make each adjustment and then waiting for it to balance out for a few minutes each time before making another adjustment. No check engine lights no stumble and no bad changes in idle or engine sunds... went pretty standard
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Today co1=19 and co2=21 bike is still running great with no richness or popping or fouled plugs and mo cleaning out or over heating or any hotter temps period.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Numbers and performance dont lie, a professional tunr shop has a calibrated dyno. If you dont want to try it then dont but I know the ecu bump does more than idle which is all I have been trying to say since o started this thread... nobody has to believe it or try it but now I know from experience and talking with those few others that have tried it, that the ecu bump works to retune the warrior for my bikes model years atleast and for the maybe 10 others that do it too. Until you try it you really have no idea and what you're talking about so do what you will with the info but I will continue to share my warrior nodding exp so those that really want to try something new for once are able to. Thanks all for the great input :) and more is encouraged if its positive and actually relevant.
 

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The ECU bump raises or lowers fuel in every area of the ECU map. It will never be as precise as the PCV and a dyno tune. It can get your bike to run good, no doubt, but it does not put the right fuel delivery in all area's of the map like a fuel management with a tune. Iv'e messed with the ECU bump thousands of times to get my bike where i want it, so plenty of experience. Ivans flash was the best mod i added to the bike for it to perform like i wanted it to, Other than cam's and HC pistons. Glad the ECU bump is working for you with the mods you have. It's helped many members. Ride safe.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Again, I said it changes the map and can tune for any mods ( I've tested many and continue to test more) and it will run great. I also said that the pc5 I bought from patrick racing that didnt come with a tune on it messed up my bike so I bumped the ecu instead and now it runs better than when the dealer sold it to me... I never said it can tune better than a fuel tuner I said I would rather not waste the money. Why spend 1000 dollars for a tuner and dyno use combo when a free ecu bump makes this bike get it's full power? Or better than from the dealer power?
 

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Discussion Starter #58
I'm quite sure with a dyno and pc5 anyone could out tune the ecu bump that's not hard when you have the tech. It's the saving money while also not buying racing tuners I dont need cuz I dont track race
 

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Yes I got that!

I'm just mentioning because most of my work testing CO1/2 yielded different findings but that could be because I was doing a fair amount of high speed riding in the upper-third of the rpm range.

Also, I found by road-testing that if I tweaked CO1/2 by just a few numbers from factory toward rich then I could quickly smell raw fuel at warm idle and while riding in the lower third of the rpm range (thru town). And I found that if I tweaked even eight or ten from factory toward lean then my exhaust got hot enough to be uncomfortable. I pulled spark plugs to verify both conditions. One of my test charts is still in my data details. Over time I tested with no fuel manager, with a PCiiiUSB Ver1 (native and perfect), with Cobra CVT autotuner, and with Ivans. My last tests were with Cobra CVT and Ivans.

I realize others have reported the need to make big changes to CO1/2 in order to have effect (with no tuner). I am in the group that found otherwise. Cannot explain it. It is what it is.

Also, there are posts here by a Yamaha tech who confirmed CO1/2 effect only up to 1100~1300rpm, and info on other forums for other bikes make similar statements. I personally had a conversation at a MC event years ago with a gent from Yamaha Japan and he said it manages warm idle and a little above so the factory can set pollution control before each bike is tested for smog certification exiting the factory. He explained why the CO1/2 values vary quite a lot between bikes (see our old conversations on this topic by using search function).

I am aware that many here use only CO1/2 tweaks and I cannot speak to why some can, and others cannot. I'm happy you can satisfactorily.

We found it wise to discuss both sides because unlike FB and similar our archives remain mostly available over the decades. Those who follow should be aware of these sorts of things because its better than having someone melt their pistons.

So nobody here is saying you are wrong, and we believe your results, we see competence so no worries!

We additionally have some years around here where results from other competent members has differed. None of us wants to guarantee the results of others into the future. If their pistons melt or exhaust scalds their leg, its gonna suck so everyone here should know the variations in reported results.

Thanks for understanding.

I ride between Reno and the central Oregon coast plus also sometimes visit friends around Mt Hood. Maybe we will bump into each other somewhere, grab a couple cold ones and have some laughs!
 

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Discussion Starter #60
That's awesome, I can appreciate the difference in bikes and I have noticed that it doesnt take much to make it rich in any case, I believe it depends alot on vacuum leaks, valve clearance adjustments and a few other things but no matter what every bike is different. I hope to meet anybody on here some time for riding I love riding everywhere anytime :) keep the rubber side down everybody.
 
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