ECU-Bump Toggle Switch w/Safety Cover (+PCiii Stuff)
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He did suggest it once all other reasons for my backfiring were eliminated. Based on how hot my rear cylinder is running, it’s definitely lean. So, between the heat and the backfires that only occur when my throttle is closed, I think the bump will address both quite nicely.
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IMO when a GOOD fuel manager is installed, the bump has limited value. I base this on the many many test bumps using my bump-switch for speed so I could ride-and-fly for many hours. The first data sets are still in my data pages. But all it does imo is reinforce what I just said.
Except one thing. Hesitation off idle when warm can be solved with a bump.
Ivan's doesn't tread on this part of the ECU. Be certain to write down settings before making changes. And imo list every change in order so you can backtrack without fiddling around if you overshoot the sweet spot.
I INSERTED A FRESH PDF INTO FIRST POST WITH PICS AND PARTS AND PRIOR MEMBER MODS FROM WHICH WE ALL STOLE IDEAS. I MIGHT HAVE MISSED SOMEONE SORRY IF I DID. MY INTENT IS JUST TO REPLACE LOST ATTACHMENTS AND BROKEN LINKS.
Sorry I did not realize the bits were gone.
BTW for those interested, the switch and cover continue to work perfectly. I added a rubber toggle switch boot way back at time of install. Closing the switch cover still cancels the switch from Bump mode into Run mode so there is no chance of issues. That being said, the bike appears to run just fine in bump mode or in disconnected mode. No difference noticed from Run mode. I've had no issues that cause any damage. Not even a hint of worry. Not that I push that as okay. But the couple times I accidently connected to nothing, the bike did not blow up and nothing happened. No dead battery. I mean nothing. But the blue toggle switch cover is still necessary and protects it all across every mile and bump and twistie.
Except one thing. Hesitation off idle when warm can be solved with a bump.
Ivan's doesn't tread on this part of the ECU. Be certain to write down settings before making changes. And imo list every change in order so you can backtrack without fiddling around if you overshoot the sweet spot.
I INSERTED A FRESH PDF INTO FIRST POST WITH PICS AND PARTS AND PRIOR MEMBER MODS FROM WHICH WE ALL STOLE IDEAS. I MIGHT HAVE MISSED SOMEONE SORRY IF I DID. MY INTENT IS JUST TO REPLACE LOST ATTACHMENTS AND BROKEN LINKS.
Sorry I did not realize the bits were gone.
BTW for those interested, the switch and cover continue to work perfectly. I added a rubber toggle switch boot way back at time of install. Closing the switch cover still cancels the switch from Bump mode into Run mode so there is no chance of issues. That being said, the bike appears to run just fine in bump mode or in disconnected mode. No difference noticed from Run mode. I've had no issues that cause any damage. Not even a hint of worry. Not that I push that as okay. But the couple times I accidently connected to nothing, the bike did not blow up and nothing happened. No dead battery. I mean nothing. But the blue toggle switch cover is still necessary and protects it all across every mile and bump and twistie.
Thank you for that and all the work you and others did laying the groundwork for this mod (and all the others)! I have downloaded all the ECU Bump pdf’s from the documentation section and have read and re-read those and every post I could find. None of the threads have photos but I have seen a few by going into members’ galleries. It’s been helpful but still missing some detail here and there. I’ve put enough together to get started, though, and I’ve gotta do something about this lean cylinder… so, parts are on order and I’ll get busy this weekend to get her running in tip-top shape.
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Look at the pictures in the pdf I inserted into this thread's first post. It's all there now.
I just checked the website of old listed seller of the toggle switch cover and rubber boot. They still have the rubber boot. But they no longer have the toggle cover. Of course eBay or Amazon have the Toggle Switch and Boot and Cover like pretty much everywhere. And local parts stores. No biggie. The material shows red but I got Blue since it's low voltage (ECU).
![Sleeve Collar Electric blue Font Rectangle]()
I just checked the website of old listed seller of the toggle switch cover and rubber boot. They still have the rubber boot. But they no longer have the toggle cover. Of course eBay or Amazon have the Toggle Switch and Boot and Cover like pretty much everywhere. And local parts stores. No biggie. The material shows red but I got Blue since it's low voltage (ECU).
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RG I will say that I played with Ivan's, the bump and several maps to find the right combo. And the winning combo was Ivan's along with a custom map provided to me from a member named Steeda. This combo for me at least gave me literally the perfect storm. No more hot jugs, super crisp throttle response, never do I ever backfire and of course power throughout the rev range.
That's EXACTLY what I'm looking for but I don't see ANY maps that specifically call out Ivan's Flash as one of the inputs (I would think this is important). It looks like everyone has just been emailing their maps around but no one has been sharing them in a central repository.
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Ivan's flash is too new. Plus the two do separate things. Some maps might cite Ivan's but in fact it's next to irrelevant.
The opposite is that if you have Ivan's you probably need a map. But if you have a fuel manager you do not require Ivan's to help manage air:fuel.
Ivan's corrects parameters, not air:fuel.
Fuel Managers are for correcting air:fuel and they do nothing about parameters. Except on some bikes a fuel manager can now advance timing. But that is also new and it's effectiveness is not yet proven.
No matter. Air:fuel is one thing, and Parameters are another entire range of different things.
So when you buy Ivan's your fuel manager map does not care. But Ivan's might. Depends on mods.
Does that make sense?
The opposite is that if you have Ivan's you probably need a map. But if you have a fuel manager you do not require Ivan's to help manage air:fuel.
Ivan's corrects parameters, not air:fuel.
Fuel Managers are for correcting air:fuel and they do nothing about parameters. Except on some bikes a fuel manager can now advance timing. But that is also new and it's effectiveness is not yet proven.
No matter. Air:fuel is one thing, and Parameters are another entire range of different things.
So when you buy Ivan's your fuel manager map does not care. But Ivan's might. Depends on mods.
Does that make sense?
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Well the map I got did not have Ivan's flash.
It was also an older map made for V&H Bigshots, Churhkeys, AIS Blocked.
It just happened to work super well with my bike.
It was also an older map made for V&H Bigshots, Churhkeys, AIS Blocked.
It just happened to work super well with my bike.
Thanks, guys! I disconnected my PC III when I did Ivan's as he requested, but then I started having a LOT of decel backfiring. I called him up and he went through the troubleshooting process (AIS leaking air?, exhaust leak?, ECU bump needed?). It really seemed like he didn't want me to use my PC. I know a lot of people still do but I was wondering if I could dial in my bike without the PC. It's still on the bike, but removed from the circuits. Those plugs are currently stuffed into my air scoop since it's just for aesthetics (and storage). Maybe I'll just put it back in and see what happens. It's already got a good map for my mods (CK VBAK, AIS, S* GEN II). Any concerns?
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Dunno. Need more info. But if the decel popping out the exhaust started after Ivan's then it seems useless to investigate intakes etc etc the cause is the parameter changes in Ivan's. It's good stuff you want it. And the need for a fuel manager is not a surprise around here.
The Bump won't fix that.
IMO you can reinstall your PCiii if it's a USB Ver2 model WITH ALL PLUGS (no crimp at TPS wire). For more info see Fuel Managers in the Documentation forum.
Or buy a new style PC-V or a Cobra PowrPro CVT autotuner. Money money.
If your's is indeed a PCiii-USB Ver2 then you need to do a visual inspection for indications of heat damage or case cracking. Check each wire both ends. Check plug connectors and the ring end ground wire. Make sure the ground lug on the Frame (near the oil filler cap) is clean.
Connect your PCIII-USB to a computer and bring up the software and then the map file. GET the map file and save it to your computer with a unique filename to avoid over-writing it.
now view the map file. Look first for the lowest rpm line. If it's for example 1000 rpm then add a duplicate line at the next lower rpm line (in order to fill-in between warm idle ~850 and the 1000 data line). If the map already has a data line encompassing 850rpm then you are good to go.
Now scan the map for empty fields that should be populated. Fill any empty field with a number matching the field below it (lower rpm directly below in map). Notice where in the map that, as rpm rises, the numeric values get smaller. Now save that copy of the map again. Then save the same map with a slightly different filename. Now close the map software. Then open it again. Then open the most recent file and make sure your changes are saved.
If you had zero changes in the file because everything looks good, then send the most recent file to your PCIII-USB saving it fresh (it will over-write the prior file that you saved on your hard drive earlier).
Test the map (djm) on your bike. Notice if anything changed. The purpose of the exercise is to fix a corrupted map file with a fresh copy.
If your bike runs better then call it a day giving you time to learn more.
Next step if it's less than perfect is to inspect the three case buttons for low mid high rpm ranges. If they are not centered (on zero) then write down the values they are set at (count lines and notice + and - operators). Then set them to zero.
Then ride and observe the rpm range causing the pop out the exhaust. If it's for example the high rpm range then use the case button to lean (-) one line then retest. If no joy try another -1 lean. If no joy test toward rich from zero. You get the idea.
Later for fine tuning if you want to really dig into it, you can edit the map file on your computer. I use rounded thirds starting at ~850 and ending at ~5000 (don't get picky). PLUS I NOTICE IF THE POP IS CAUSED BY RPM BELOW 1300 BECAUSE A BUMP MIGHT HELP AS A LAST RESORT. But this is very rare.
So either method, try to notice (without crashing) what rpm you're in before you act on the throttle to decelerate. If it pops out the exhaust, then that rpm range is your suspect. Again, first, deal with the face buttons. Then, with the face buttons set to zero, test toward lean and then toward rich if needed.
THEN if you are finding improvement, edit the map file cells in the suspect rpm range in the same sequential fashion. The closer to knowing the exact rpm on your tach when it pops, the less work you will have to do. I work on 3 consecutive rpm data lines at a time, for fine tuning. More on this later.
If it worsens or does not improve, then go back to your saved backup map and take a break.
If it's fixed (or at least better) then write down the case button settings, and by then you will know how to edit those settings into the actual map file fields so do that. Then center all three buttons on zero again. Here's why. The buttons act on top of map field data. Use buttons to find the area and tweak. Then edit the fix the tweak into the map file and then center buttons on zero again.
Candidly, I loved what I learned. But at some point I just didn't have time to manually do these things. Plus I haven't even brought-up spark-plug-reading and such. So it's probably no surprise that I invested in a Cobra PowrPro CVT. Love it.
You're gonna wanna do this exercise because you will learn things that will serve you all your life. And its very likely going to point you in a direction that fixes it. But at some point in your life you're going to go to an autotuner device too. Ahhhh. Sweet 😋
The Bump won't fix that.
IMO you can reinstall your PCiii if it's a USB Ver2 model WITH ALL PLUGS (no crimp at TPS wire). For more info see Fuel Managers in the Documentation forum.
Or buy a new style PC-V or a Cobra PowrPro CVT autotuner. Money money.
If your's is indeed a PCiii-USB Ver2 then you need to do a visual inspection for indications of heat damage or case cracking. Check each wire both ends. Check plug connectors and the ring end ground wire. Make sure the ground lug on the Frame (near the oil filler cap) is clean.
Connect your PCIII-USB to a computer and bring up the software and then the map file. GET the map file and save it to your computer with a unique filename to avoid over-writing it.
now view the map file. Look first for the lowest rpm line. If it's for example 1000 rpm then add a duplicate line at the next lower rpm line (in order to fill-in between warm idle ~850 and the 1000 data line). If the map already has a data line encompassing 850rpm then you are good to go.
Now scan the map for empty fields that should be populated. Fill any empty field with a number matching the field below it (lower rpm directly below in map). Notice where in the map that, as rpm rises, the numeric values get smaller. Now save that copy of the map again. Then save the same map with a slightly different filename. Now close the map software. Then open it again. Then open the most recent file and make sure your changes are saved.
If you had zero changes in the file because everything looks good, then send the most recent file to your PCIII-USB saving it fresh (it will over-write the prior file that you saved on your hard drive earlier).
Test the map (djm) on your bike. Notice if anything changed. The purpose of the exercise is to fix a corrupted map file with a fresh copy.
If your bike runs better then call it a day giving you time to learn more.
Next step if it's less than perfect is to inspect the three case buttons for low mid high rpm ranges. If they are not centered (on zero) then write down the values they are set at (count lines and notice + and - operators). Then set them to zero.
Then ride and observe the rpm range causing the pop out the exhaust. If it's for example the high rpm range then use the case button to lean (-) one line then retest. If no joy try another -1 lean. If no joy test toward rich from zero. You get the idea.
Later for fine tuning if you want to really dig into it, you can edit the map file on your computer. I use rounded thirds starting at ~850 and ending at ~5000 (don't get picky). PLUS I NOTICE IF THE POP IS CAUSED BY RPM BELOW 1300 BECAUSE A BUMP MIGHT HELP AS A LAST RESORT. But this is very rare.
So either method, try to notice (without crashing) what rpm you're in before you act on the throttle to decelerate. If it pops out the exhaust, then that rpm range is your suspect. Again, first, deal with the face buttons. Then, with the face buttons set to zero, test toward lean and then toward rich if needed.
THEN if you are finding improvement, edit the map file cells in the suspect rpm range in the same sequential fashion. The closer to knowing the exact rpm on your tach when it pops, the less work you will have to do. I work on 3 consecutive rpm data lines at a time, for fine tuning. More on this later.
If it worsens or does not improve, then go back to your saved backup map and take a break.
If it's fixed (or at least better) then write down the case button settings, and by then you will know how to edit those settings into the actual map file fields so do that. Then center all three buttons on zero again. Here's why. The buttons act on top of map field data. Use buttons to find the area and tweak. Then edit the fix the tweak into the map file and then center buttons on zero again.
Candidly, I loved what I learned. But at some point I just didn't have time to manually do these things. Plus I haven't even brought-up spark-plug-reading and such. So it's probably no surprise that I invested in a Cobra PowrPro CVT. Love it.
You're gonna wanna do this exercise because you will learn things that will serve you all your life. And its very likely going to point you in a direction that fixes it. But at some point in your life you're going to go to an autotuner device too. Ahhhh. Sweet 😋
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Yep! Love it! Hope you had most of that already typed up cause my response is going to be very lack-luster in comparison.
1. I do have a PC-III USB Ver 2
2. My map ran really well with my setup and wasn't corrupted at the time I "removed" it.
3. The PC-III is completely undamaged, just unplugged. I'll give it a once over when I reconnect it though.
4. EXCELLENT suggestion about viewing the map and verifying the lowest line covers the 850 range. THIS I WILL DO and wouldn't have known/thought about doing with you your guidance.
5. I'll plan to run it tomorrow to go to work and to get my front tire replaced. I'll make note of any issues and make sure my three buttons are zeroed out. I haven't used them and honestly wasn't sure what to do with them until doing all the reading lately.
6. I'm hopeful I'll be able to stop here:
Otherwise, I'll continue with the rest of your suggestions. I'll definitely report back how it's running tomorrow as I'm looking to do a ride on Saturday and would prefer to not have to be d!cking around with it by then.
As always, thank you for your wisdom and encouragement. I'm glad I resurrected this thread! Looking forward to truly unlocking the beast!
1. I do have a PC-III USB Ver 2
2. My map ran really well with my setup and wasn't corrupted at the time I "removed" it.
3. The PC-III is completely undamaged, just unplugged. I'll give it a once over when I reconnect it though.
4. EXCELLENT suggestion about viewing the map and verifying the lowest line covers the 850 range. THIS I WILL DO and wouldn't have known/thought about doing with you your guidance.
5. I'll plan to run it tomorrow to go to work and to get my front tire replaced. I'll make note of any issues and make sure my three buttons are zeroed out. I haven't used them and honestly wasn't sure what to do with them until doing all the reading lately.
6. I'm hopeful I'll be able to stop here:
"If your bike runs better then call it a day giving you time to learn more."
Otherwise, I'll continue with the rest of your suggestions. I'll definitely report back how it's running tomorrow as I'm looking to do a ride on Saturday and would prefer to not have to be d!cking around with it by then.
As always, thank you for your wisdom and encouragement. I'm glad I resurrected this thread! Looking forward to truly unlocking the beast!
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Oh man this Beast is awesome when it's dialed-in even close, it is forgiving and almost bullet proof and it corners like it's on rails. Give yourself time to acclimate to Ivan's or you might be embarrassed lol. Very little engine braking!
Well, I did a once over on my PC-III last night. Looked good. Connected it back up without issue.
This morning, I reviewed my map and it covers all the way down to 750 rpms and up to 5750 rpms so I felt pretty good about that and ran it to work this morning.
I did notice that all my backfiring (which was slightly reduced) was happening between 2k and 3k rpms and only during deceleration with my throttle closed. Also, I think I'm running lean now just based on the smell. I won't be able to verify with my plugs until either later tonight or tomorrow night...
I didn't not verify my PC's buttons were centered but when reviewing my map, it looked pretty rich down low (+20 pretty much from 750 - 2000, 0% - 20% or so). I'll have to screen shot my map later to show you exactly what it is, but I think I'm running Bucky's map:
Bucky685_121807 Map -
Yamaha Road Star Warrior
Speed Star 2-1-2 (Gen II)
Churchkey V-BAK
AIS Block Off
Maybe it's just time I go do a proper Dyno tune, but it is fun trying to work these things out on my own (with the greater team's help, of course).
Or is that money better spent on an auto-tuner??
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Tuff choice. When I had my first Warrior purchased in 2004 I thought I was king of the World. I would ride with a bunch of Harleys and every bike night I had to defend my honor. I slapped a pro pipe and Church VBAK and got a dyno tune from a good friend of mine. I gotta search for the sheet but it laid down 88hp and 110tq. I was smoking everyone all day long with that simple combo and a 31 tooth pulley. Now it didn't have Ivan's but that tune was jjjjuuuusssssttttt right for that bike. I just ran.
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@random_guy
Oh um well I bet you also hate to turn away from learning new things. Plus it takes time to evaluate and dig deep on an autotuner. Looking back I'm convinced it's the primo sexwax know what I mean? But I use what I learned on power commanders and bumps in more ways than expected.
Oh um well I bet you also hate to turn away from learning new things. Plus it takes time to evaluate and dig deep on an autotuner. Looking back I'm convinced it's the primo sexwax know what I mean? But I use what I learned on power commanders and bumps in more ways than expected.
100% correct! I'm also a planner (at least mentally) where I'll think about everything that needs to be done and identify how it could go wrong, then correct that before I ever get started. My execution tends to go really well and I never find myself asking, "Why did I ever start this project??" But I'm also quite practical so if it make sense to move to the latest and greatest, I'm not going to be stubborn and just keep sinking money into a lost cause.
I rode her to work. Smelled rich. I rode her to get a new front tire. Backfired a LOT, at every RPM, but generally with my throttle closed. Rode her home and tried really hard to not let her backfire anymore and still had some while moving slow, low rpm, throttle closed...
Here's Bucky's map that is currently loaded.
![Rectangle Font Slope Screenshot Parallel]()
This is rx_warrior's Burrito map. I think I'm going to load this up tonight and see how it runs tomorrow. I think I like the idea of 0's at 0% throttle, especially since I'm running Ivan's. Also, the numbers seem a bit more milder than Bucky's map. Thoughts?
![Rectangle Font Screenshot Parallel Slope]()
Here's Bucky's map that is currently loaded.
This is rx_warrior's Burrito map. I think I'm going to load this up tonight and see how it runs tomorrow. I think I like the idea of 0's at 0% throttle, especially since I'm running Ivan's. Also, the numbers seem a bit more milder than Bucky's map. Thoughts?
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