It should be much more responsive vs less. I would take it back to the dealer and tell them to get back to work.

Did they return all of your stock components? If so check to make sure the ECU was changed, and everything else too.

 

I just saw uhhuh(board member) at our local bike night. We both have the same set-up with BAK and cobra slip on and ECU adjustment. He told me he just got a PC111, and said it made a BIG difference from the ECU adjustment. I don't have the 3 beans to buy one yet, but its on the list of things to get. Maybe it will help you too. Just remeber to have to get a custom Map too.

 

How exactly did you replace/remove the license palte lights? believe it or not, this has a big effect on ECM performance. I chopped mine & had to add resistors to equal the load of the two bulbs to get everything working properly again.

 

quote:Originally posted by jr

How exactly did you replace/remove the license palte lights? believe it or not, this has a big effect on ECM performance. I chopped mine & had to add resistors to equal the load of the two bulbs to get everything working properly again.


JR - I added bullet turns front/rear, put in Kuryakyn load equalizers that took care of the quick-flashing issues. I cut OFF the rear license plate light along with the unsightly plastic fender just below the tail-light. Added the two 12v LED license plate mounting lights (bought at Pep Boys for car license plate mounts). Grounded the negative side to the license plate frame, and connected the positive to the original license-plate wire (green, I think?) in the back.

 

I think you guys are missing the point. He didn't bring it in for a Stage IV. He brought it in for service and now it runs crappy. I would look for a vacuum leak somewhere. They may have disurbed one of the lines under the tank.

 

Thanks, xharley. True, already HAVE the Stage IV. Ran great, runs crappy, now. I'm especially disturbed by the fact that as soon as I 'snap' the throttle, it drops by 150-200 rpms then revs....just don't think that's right!

 

Sounds like the wiring is correct. xharley may be right, but a 4k is basicly an oil change/check over adjustments, no reason to disturb anything.

 

Were license plate lights added before or after dealer tune?

 

quote:Originally posted by jr

Were license plate lights added before or after dealer tune?


Before. and I didn't notice any difference in performance after I added them and before I took the bike in. In fact, went for a most-of-the-day ride, and everything was as it should be.

 

Then I doubt you have any electrical issues. Like xharley said, if it ran good when you took it in, it should run good when you pick it up. Did you get a check sheet of what they did? maybe went a little further than the maintenence schedule & pulled a hose off?

 

Well, got a check-sheet, yeah. But you know, standard after-the-fact-check-off-everything-that-should-be-checked sorta thing. Funny thing is, it was the Dealership's Owner's bike. He used to race, so WOULDN'T have put up with a cruddy running cycle. I should get HIM to test ride it (he put the original 3k miles on it after the Stage IV upgrade)

 

One thing still bothering me about the LED's, I had the same symptom with the "powering down" when shut off. Might be worth plugging the stock license light back in (not the whole fender, but just the light to see if it makes a difference)

 

I have the AIS blockoff and when I took the tank off to remove the right side airbox I disturbed one of the lines that had been blocked off going to the AIS. It ran lean, hesitated off idle, had flat spots, and ran generally rough. I took the tank off again to install the VBAK and found the vacuum line that had been disconnected.

 

quote:Originally posted by perscon

Well, got a check-sheet, yeah. But you know, standard after-the-fact-check-off-everything-that-should-be-checked sorta thing. Funny thing is, it was the Dealership's Owner's bike. He used to race, so WOULDN'T have put up with a cruddy running cycle. I should get HIM to test ride it (he put the original 3k miles on it after the Stage IV upgrade)

perscon,

This starts to make sense.
I know ONE thing you can do to a Stage IV bike and it will feel numb: You put the prefilters over the velocity stacks and maybe even oil them.
If you tell me that this was the owners bike maybe they where waiting for the first service to put those back on after you where running without them. You will easily loose 10 hps with them. Since they are very small and have a small surface they are actually worse than a BAK setup. They are intended to be used in dirty areas and when it rains.
Could that be the one?
Let us know.

Oliver

 

... and yes the PCIII makes a nice difference even with the Stage IV setp - especially if you are running different pipes.

 

thanks for the ideas. I'm gonna pull the tank and look around, disconnect those LEDs, see what's what. I'll talk to the mechanic and ask him if he did anything with those pre-filters. For what I paid for the bike, I'd expect it to be running in tip-top performance, at LEAST not worse than before a service.

 

the only time id take my bike to the dealer is to trade it in on a new one

 

New problem today. Turned off the engine at the kill switch, then turned off the key. Bike made a horrible sort of clicking noise (like a solenoid or relay) on the RH side around the cam cover. Turned it on, the noise went away. Turned the key off, noise started clicking again (by the way, I had completly disconnected the positive side of the LED plate light). Then, I tried to start the bike, it cycled through it's power up process, but the engine light flashed on-off-on-off and I couldn't start the bike. Did this for several minutes, then it started right up. Same problem during shut-down though. I'm stumped!

 

You will find references to this in other posts:

Long story short: I f you diconnect all lights or replace them with LEDs the electronic (ECU) goes nuts on shut down unless:
You put the bike in Neutral (Neutral switch adds additional load)
and then shut off the bike.
I always do mine with the key instead of the kill switch.
You get used to it.

 

Perscon,
what you're describing sounds like the decompression solenoid running on. Ditto what Frankenstein said. If you have a service manual, work through the ecu diagnostics. I'll bet you find an error code at #55. that show's a history of previous faults at decomp solenoid.

 

Oliver: The stage IV ECU has the revlimiter up 300rpm?

 

quote:Originally posted by Penzoil

Oliver: The stage IV ECU has the revlimiter up 300rpm?


Look into my gallery. You see two dyno sheets - one before Stage IV and another with Stage IV. I think it is 400rpm.

 

What's the revlimiter? and only 300-400rpms ? should that be 3-4000 RPMS? It idles and 900!

 

perscon,

This is about an extra 400 rpms on top of stock. Check out my gallery for details.