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2012 Yamaha Roadliner S Midnight
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As a retired Painter using the can is quite acceptable as long as you take your time.
Also having a clean environment so there is no dust or bugs is good too. The important thing to remember is paint it like your tippy toeing so not to wake someone. The first coats ( 2 primer 1 top coat ) are the most important coats. If these are screwed up you final coat will be screwed up. With sanding anything your painting you should use no less than 1000 grit ( in the past I've used as high as 3000 grit ). You should also have a moist rag so as to wipe down after each time you sand ( paint dust will ball up if you keep on sanding without a wipe ). Doing fenders and little objects on a bike using a rattle can is quite alright however, do not paint a tank using rattle cans. Its too big and important job to be done by rattle cans.
 

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Hi @KenGura! Glad you came out of the shadows. Just a quick FYI, this thread is from 14 years ago. I mean, thanks for sharing the knowledge, but it might be a little late for these guys.
Just my two Bob's worth here. Yes this discussion was started years ago, but I'm more thinking about future Warrior owners. I must admit that some of the info had me cringing, but we all live and learn. So I've gathered some info from previous posts and will add some more handy hints paint wise. Now I know not everyone can afford new powder coating and because of this you use the rattle paint can. Elsewhere I have mentioned the steps to using a rattle can and getting the best quality finish job. A previous author wrote that he had painted or repainted his rims. Now in a perfect world if your going to paint a rim yourself having the tyre removed from the rim is the best option. So seeing as this isn't the perfect World the tyre will stay on for this exercise. Firstly wash the rim with Sugar Soap ( do not use degreaser or any such solvent at this stage. Now we need to break the surface of the rim up a bit ( this is to allow your first coat of paint to grip to the metal ) using anything from 250 to 500 grit. Now you don't have to take it all back to bare metal. All we are doing is breaking up the existing surface. Use sugar soap to clean the surface after to clean away the dust. There is an important reason as to why you don't use a solvent at this stage. Depending on whether you use a gloss or matt paint you will need an etching paint. I could go into a long spewl on what etching paint does, but Google can give you that answer suffice to say that etching paint reacts with the previous coat/s of paint in other words it sticks like sheit to a blanket. Not metal etching paint has a primer built in. Now back to the perfect World 2 coats of etching will be enough. Once it has dried you can give it a light rub with some 1000 grit wet/dry paper. Once that is done you can use the same process as for rattle canning a fender. Important; don't do this stuff with the wheel still on the bike. Strip all you can off and tape up bearings and alike. So I hope this little bit helps. Oh and I nearly forgot as most people don't have a sealed shed with powerful heat lamps I don't suggest that you paint Saturday and ride Sunday. Paint might dry in 30 minutes, but cure time can be a week or more depending on climate. To get around this use a hair dryer not a heat gun to cure the paint quicker. I don't know about the US, but here in Oz you can get decent tins of engine paint ( naturally this paint can handle the heat and is a better product than normal rattle tin paint for wheel rims.
 

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I did a rattle can paint job on my wife's lil Suzuki VanVan 200. It came out nice.
Patience patience.

Sandblasted all the old paint off,
Couple of primer coats.. Dried 2 days
4 or 5 top coats, rattle cans put down thin layers, thicker ones can take one into drip territory. Let cure for a week, 2000 grit to smooth out.
2 coats of Clear 2K, let cure for two weeks, 3000 grit wipe down followed up by rough polish, then swirl free polish.

All in all it took about a month but came out very nice.
 
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