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Discussion Starter #1
I need some help with a problem that just came up with my Warrior. I'll try to be as detailed as possible with the sequence of events that led up to the problem.

1. I replaced the front turn signals with some flexible LED strips.

2. When I went to ride my bike 2 days later, the battery was almost dead, wouldn't start.

3. I assumed that the turn signals (LED strips) were shorting out and since I needed to ride that day I just cut them off and taped the wires.

4. When I started the bike, I saw that the headlight was out. I checked the fuse and it was blown.

5. When I replaced the fuse, I heard this "angry wasp in a soada can" sound from the motor. The sound is coming from the right side of the motor, just beneath the 102/Yamaha cover. The best I can describe it is a terrible clicking sound, like an angry wasp in a soda can. Also, there is the faintest blue coming from the spedo back light, like it's barely on. When I pull out that particular fuse, the noise stops.

6. I was in a hurry so I started the bike up and it ran fine. When I got to my destination, turned off the bike and no noise....

7. After returning home, turned off the bike and the noise is back. I couldn't figure it out so I removed the headlight fuse and called it a night.

HELP! WTF is going on?
 

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Nick,

From what I know, most of the electrical effects the ECU. Taking a load out of a circuit will cause things to go haywire. I'm far from educated on electrical so hopefully someone experieced will help out here. Your LED lights should need a load equalizer, did you install one?
 

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the front turn sigs are also running lights. did you install the front led's in the same configuration, as turns and running lights? you also need a load equalizer or capacitor like jody said to make up for the stock 35watt draw.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
quote:Originally posted by amospro

Nick,

From what I know, most of the electrical effects the ECU. Taking a load out of a circuit will cause things to go haywire. I'm far from educated on electrical so hopefully someone experieced will help out here. Your LED lights should need a load equalizer, did you install one?


Ya, got a load eq for the rear ones, Dave at Custom Dynamics (great company by the way) said it should suffice for both front and rear signals. Maybe removing the front LED's all together caused a problem?
 

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You may have a short! Double sheck you wiring... Make sure that there is no exposed wires. the fact that the battery is burning, tells me that there is a short. A blown fuse would second that. The lowered vlotage caused by a almost dead battery can cause your ecu to start buggin. The voltages in the ECU are very low, and the slightest diffrences can make other systems act up..

The second thing that I would consider is to:

Unplug the new lights and put the old ones back on for a while and see if the problem goes away... The voltage across the blinkers is not 12v, but closer to 7v. If you have a part that is made for cars 12v, it may be causing problems by pulling to much load over the circuit... A load equalizer in this case may only make problems worse.

What is the voltage rating on the lights? If it is 12v use a multimeter across the blinker to find the required voltage.. Let me know if you need help with this...

Later
jeremiah
 

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You may have a short! Double sheck you wiring... Make sure that there is no exposed wires. the fact that the battery is burning, tells me that there is a short. A blown fuse would second that. The lowered vlotage caused by a almost dead battery can cause your ecu to start buggin. The voltages in the ECU are very low, and the slightest diffrences can make other systems act up..

The second thing that I would consider is to:

Unplug the new lights and put the old ones back on for a while and see if the problem goes away... The voltage across the blinkers is not 12v, but closer to 7v. If you have a part that is made for cars 12v, it may be causing problems by pulling to much load over the circuit... A load equalizer in this case may only make problems worse.

What is the voltage rating on the lights? If it is 12v use a multimeter across the blinker to find the required voltage.. Let me know if you need help with this...

Later
jeremiah
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'll try both suggestions tommorw. First re-attaching the LED lights...see if the clicking goes away. If not, attaching the stock turn sigs again. Does anybody know what that thing is that's making the clicking noise? It sounds like a pump/injector of some sort. What lies directly beneath the 102/Yamaha cover on the right side?
 

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VW's,
Go to our "Search" Feature at the top of page, click on "Search" type in Load Eqalizer's or Resistor's. Plenty of info covering this exact problem.
 

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Hey PushingVW's, the clicking noise is probably coming for de-compression solenoid. There is a solenoid under the cover on the right side that allows compression to be released when starting the engine. The loss in compression reduces the demand on the starter motor. With a substantial low voltage at start time, due to an excessive load daining the battery, the microprocessor (ECU) maybe resetting itself over-and-over. This reset action does not allow the ECU to ever function properly, hench the stange behavior. Double check all YOUR wiring, fix/make sure that there are NO possibilities for short circuits. Blown fuses indicate SHORTs to ground, or low impedance paths. Relpace all blown or suspect fuses. Make sure you have a FULLY charged battery. Mesure you battery voltage under load, make sure battery voltage does not drop excessively when starting. You might measure the current draw with the key OFF to make sure there are no "funny" ghost loads draining your battery. As a last resort, put everything back to stock, and then see if you still have a problem, chances are there is a wiring problem that will show up in the process. [/emoticons/emotion-4.gif][8D][/emoticons/emotion-4.gif]
Hope this helps
 

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Shut the bike off in Nuetral instead of gear that normally will cure the "wasp" noises. I've had issues with it since removing the running lights. It never happens with the bike turned off in Nuetral. As for the "loads" keep an eye on them, mine burned in the housing for the headlight. Melted wires etc... I run without them now. THe nike will become very hard starting after a few minutes of buzzing.
 

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I had the same problems after changing front and rear lights. I shut the bike off in nuetral and with the key not kill switch. Solved my problem.
 

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You folks don't get it. If you are going to remove or replace the front signals/running lights or rear signals you have to replace with the correct amperage draw or it sends the improper signal to the ECU. This is where you get the solenoid clicking. That is why your battery drains. Research the Topic! There is plenty of information covering this topic.
 

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I understand the point, My bike almost burned because of a load equalizer, though! I'll go without and shut it down in Nuetral.
 

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NOISE IN ENGIN AND LIGHTS FLASHES ON SPEEDO WHEN KEY IS OUT .
I do not have any marker bulbs on my bike , the the bike is also wacked out with the LED on the speedo and check engin light on when the bike is in not in neutral with the key out. voo doo man .
IS THERE A FIX ????? is there some resistor i have to have insted of markers ??
HELP PLEASE
 

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quote:Originally posted by DNGrumpy

I understand the point, My bike almost burned because of a load equalizer, though! I'll go without and shut it down in Nuetral.


DN,

I ended up putting the 10ohm, 10W resistor used to draw the running light circuit on the outside of the headlamp so it can stay cool. It's wrapped in heatshrink tubing for weatherproofing and mounted against a wireguide. This way I can shut her off in gear with kill switch without worry.

Image Insert:
 

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I have exactly the same symptoms as originally described after replacing my rear indicators and tail-light with an integrated system. With so many people describing this very same issue under much the same circumstance, i think you can safely assume its not a short.
 
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