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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I changed my oil, put in some synthetic Castrol Power 1, and went off to test ride, fine for 5 miles, then engine warning light comes on - so I thought I'd overfilled it, and sucked some out, went out again, and light again came on. Fiddled about, tried another ride, fine as she warmed up, then give her 3k on the revs steady on a faster road, light comes on again. Goes out when I got home, but Diag shows 16 - TPS?

I haven't been in there lately, so this is confusing, not really sure what to do. I'm reading disconnect fuel pump connector, is that required? I tried to get that connector off last week and failed - should I try again?

Not sure of the status of my TPS, as original TPS had the recall, but this set of throttle bodies were replaced with 2nd hand parts due to broken airscrew some years ago. Never touched it cos don't understand the thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Is this the first ride for the season?

Separate from this, the Yamaha video for correct method to verify motor oil level is in the Welcome Mat forum.
No, I used it every day through the winter, I find it easy to overfill the oil, as it expands so much more when the engine is properly hot. I thought it looked a little low and added about a cup full, then when I got home, it did look too high, so rather than have it blow out into my airbox, as has happened before, I sucked it back out with an ink cartridge syringe.

I just blasted the TPS with WD40, and put it back together, got to work tomorrow, the warning light comes off and on - seemingly when hotter? Not sure as yet, only started this problem today, I did a 100 miles last week no problems after I'd been messing about with that fuel scenario last week - supposed to be solved, but not certain as yet
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I pressed the 2 buttons on the dash and turned it on, got the DIAG mode, pressed the 2 buttons again, and got d1:01 16, don't know if that means I have error code 16 (TPS) or if it just means something else I need to read more of the manual - which I'm searching next
 

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So you disassembled the TPS? Or unplugged the coupler?

If the check engine light comes on then a code will appear in the gauge. That is an active issue.

That code remains in memory history even after solved unless deleted or over-written.

Turn off your bike with the kill switch and read code in gauge. If you turn off key then all power is lost.

Did you see the Yamaha video in the Welcome Mat forum?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I left the new TPS on the throttle bodies and just plugged them right in - that was 4+ years ago. I didn't want to tamper with it, since the whole bike worked so much better at that point. I always thought it was because the throttle bodies might be cleaner, I couldn't see much difference between the old TPS and the new (replacement) the bike often conked out at traffic lights and roundabouts (decel) but only 3 or 4 times a year, so I figured the recall wasn't up to much, or wasn't done right - whatever.

Nothing appeared in the gauge when the light came on - only when I did the diagnose procedure.

Ok, I think I killed the fault, I went to 62 and it said 7 - now it says 0, and yet, when I go to repeat the diagnose thing, it still says d1: 01 16

That video is very concise and useful, no wonder people have problems, its pretty tricky
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I just been for a quick jaunt & no warning light, so I'm assuming the problem was indeed overfill - tho it was only a 20mins ride, and it was more like 45 earlier, but it does make more sense for it to be oil than TPS. The diag thing still shows 16 when I check it, but its stayed at 0 on code 62, so there can't be any new errors, maybe it just shows 16 was the last recorded before erase? Or it just says 16 for some other reason I don't understand.

I did loosen the oil filter this aft, cos I thought I may have had a freak air block of some sort

Also, another thing, I only got about 4.5 ltrs into it, that confused me a little, I emptied both the 17mm bolts.

All in all a bit paranoid, cos I used Yamalube religiously up till now - guy in shop told me not to use synthetic, cos the bike don't need it, and all oil is made at the same factory with different labels etc, etc, yada!

Thanks for the help! Can't stay sane while I own this bike!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
If you overfill with motor oil it tends get be spit-out the hose on top of the rear jug thru a rubber hose to the side of the oil filler cavity. It tends to show as surface motor mist or leaks and drips on the ground somewhere.
I been to work and back today and there's been no light on - (my work run is only 6 miles, and no fast bits, its all pottering traffic) I really want to go and do 30+ miles to be sure the problem is over - but the weather has turned really foul here now, we actually got hailstorm this afternoon, so I shall have to wait.

I once found oil in the silencer air box thing, I assumed I'd overfilled and oil had come from the cylinder breather vent. There was quite a bit in there, I haven't checked it this time. That video on filling oil correctly opened my eyes, I must have changed oil on this bike 15 times now, and probably only got lucky with the levels half the time.

I was surprised to see the engine light come on yesterday, its never happened before - I do have some niggling electrical issues at the moment, my battery seems to be poor, I'm thinking about various problems. My internally wired bars could have a short, I may have harmed my CPS when I replaced the clutch, also, my earth connecter broke its lead, so I put a new one in. I wonder why Yamaha put battery connecters which rub against the back of the battery box the way they do. I think the live red connector might be weakened from the years of being pushed up against the box that way.

Those are just side issues tho, I'm sure its oil change related - 98% sure anyhow!
 

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Yep the stock set-up routes some excess oil to the silencer box where it could be wiped-up during service. Maybe some even gets sucked into the motor who knows. I use the usual thinking to minimize: measure oil drained, fill correct amount of new oil in two stages as specified, ride the bike to fully warm and verify oil level as in video. Plus I have an oil pressure gauge, and over the years I understand the dial readings across the range. It lends confidence.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Turn off your bike with the kill switch and read code in gauge. If you turn off key then all power is lost.
I been a bit thick and didn't follow the instruction properly - but today, because the light was on all day Friday work & back, I re-read and understood at last - got a code 38 - decompression - so I just quickly tweaked it, and the light went out - hoorah!

Light is back on again now, so will have a proper look at that solenoid later or tomorrow - it chucked it down with rain yesterday, so its possible it got water on the connections someplace as read elsewhere on this site. Shall hopefully be able to solve it now I know beter what I'm looking at
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I spent the day messing about trying to figure out this Decompression Solenoid problem I have, and this is how far I got.

Couldn't really make head or tail of the manual ohms and testing the thing, so I ended up inspecting the wires at the solenoid end and one just came out the tube without even a tug, so I'm assuming thats my problem.

Soldered the 2 ends but it wouldn't take well at all, since this wiring is ancient and corroded, ended up pretty much glueing them together with the solder - seems to be secure, but wether its a good connection I don't know.

Here's my question, how will I ever know if the thing is working again? Will I see movement when I turn the key? At the moment, I don't see anything moving. This confuses me a bit - should I? I'm just asking cos I don't really want to put the bike back together only to have to take it all apart again. (my exhaust stud is being a pain by coming out with the nut rusted onto it and it just annoys cos had ongoing problems in the past)

Anyhow, here's a photo, it shows the one I just soldered and you can see the corrosion on the other connection too

One thing I did notice, when I touched the black wire by mistake to the frame, it sparked and the solenoid activated - so I took this as a good sign the thing still works?
248835
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
I'd appreciate any info as regards this thing + how to physically see if it working, as I might want to leave the bike in bits overnight & have another go tomorrow - since that nut is still stuck on the exhaust stud etc

What I mean is: when I turn on the key, will the decompression solenoid move, or will that only happen when I press the starter? (I don't want to press it till I have my exhaust back on)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Update - I put the exhaust back on + starter her and saw the solenoid work! Hoorah! I guess this concludes my latest bout of mania :cool:
 

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From what you posted the solenoid works and your trouble is corroded wiring. If you repaired the wires and if the 15amp fuse is good, then you should see the solenoid move when the key is turned on (oops - when start is pressed - my bad). If the cover is installed then check the manual 6-16 for Diag Code 55 test to know if its actuating.

See 6-27 and 6-28 and 7-27 for more.

See 7-23 for dependencies.

Also, if the decompression solenoid cover is black with fins then its stock and has the gap needed for the wires to pass. If not then the cover probably does not give space for the wires to pass and therefore would need grinding. A search here for decompression cover should illustrate.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Fantastic! You might check my post anyway (we seem to have been writing at the same time!).
I'm half way over the moon right now, starting is better now than its been for months. I have to say, this board is totally indispensable - the info on the solenoid wires I'd have never have guessed or looked for if it hadn't been for this resource.

Thanks to all for the assistance over the years! :D
 

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Excellent troubleshooting and repair FitFrank (y)
……….….
One thing I did notice, when I touched the black wire by mistake to the frame, it sparked and the solenoid activated - so I took this as a good sign the thing still works?
  • The Decomp Solenoid (DS) is unswitched and live (Hot) when the Ignition Key is Off. The DS is triggered by Negative polarity from the ECU so you were lucky. One of the Black wires is Fused & hot and the other is negative polarity to the ECU which is the wire you grounded ;)
………….
What I mean is: when I turn on the key, will the decompression solenoid move, or will that only happen when I press the starter? (I don't want to press it till I have my exhaust back on)
As you already found out, the DS only operates when you press the Starter Push Button.

It's best to pull the DS Fuse or the battery cable when working on this component part.
 

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Just a general question with regards to the DS. Are you able to do a complete wire replacement and do the wires have the same amperage?
 
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