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Hey guy's,

Sorry for the rambling message below, I'm trying to type this throughout the day as I have time when I'm in the office so, it's not really a complete cohesive thought...

Looking for a little guidance before getting in there and trouble shooting this or based on the feedback I might just leave it alone if I'm not damaging anything. I'm super busy with life right now and it's really a pain in the A$$ trying to get my bike to an empty parking lot on campus and get my ladies lap top out (I'm a Mac guy) to check the PCIII map and adjust it as my house is pretty well booked solid with reservations now and the bike is loud as he!!.

Recently after having spent the winter down time doing a bunch of mods on the bike and having her up and running, I'm noticing a "cough" (bop bop bop bop bop) out of my exhaust rather than a "bang" backfire like I would get before the AIS delete and Ivan's Flash, when I really get on the throttle (3K RPM's +) then come off it. It doesn't seem to really bother me but I want to make sure all is good and I'm not running too lean or the map needs to be adjusted etc... I have not adjusted the map since using the one Ivan included with the Flashed ECU. Also, I noticed my idle is a bit high and will plan on adjusting that before getting too deep into this. I won't lie it sounds kinda good and if I'm not damaging something I will leave it alone, sounds like my R6 did when I was pushing it or a F1 when slowing down if that makes sense. Additionally, I'm pretty certain I don't have any Vac leaks as I checked that thoroughly with the relo plate and LCV delete and when I put the exhaust back on there were new gaskets and it was properly torqued.

Here is what I've done this winter that I think may have impacted it:
Left side clean-up
Akitadog Relo Plate
Dyna Coils and Wires
Iridium Plugs
LCV delete
31 tooth front pulley
SS throttle cables

I appreciate any thoughts y'all might have!
 

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If its not running super-hot and heating-up your leg then don't worry about it. If it does not pop 'up the intakes' you are good. If it doesn't bang once like a cannon you are good.

Next time you have a convenient time to remove one spark plug (get new 12mm crush washers in advance) from each jug, compare their condition while observing wetness dryness discoloration of the different parts (thread porcelain tips rim) then compare both to a color spark plug chart. If its an air cooled mc plug chart then its better but I don't see them much anymore. The race car charts are also good enough.

You want, on average, to be slightly rich. That condition gives a little bit of that deceleration rumble off-throttle with clutch still engaged. It also keeps acceleration fun.

Perfect plugs have square tip surfaces and variable light tan porcelain. The surfaces will by dry with little or no carbon ash. The non-projecting threads will only be slightly heat-discolored. The projecting threads can be darker but any ash build-up will have dislodged and fallen in the jug when removing the plug. If no ash on the plug then no worries about any having dislodged.

Your PC3 has three face buttons for adjustment of the low medium high rpm ranges. These act in addition to map changes and so they compound. If the LED lights are centered then they are at zero so the map runs un-modified by the face buttons. This is what you want.

Each line above or below center is equal to more than just one map value increase. The manual has the details sorry I do not recall exactly. Just a descriptive example: one face button LED increase might be equal to 3 values in the map field. Check.

What ever that number is, which you need to verify (sorry) it goes as follows: if you pull over and use the face buttons to change the low rpm range by 1 LED light level 'up' toward rich, and you ride awhile and like it, then check the PC3 manual to calculate how many numbers you increase the map's several low-rpm fields by. After you update the map, you need to return the face button LED's to center (zero modification).

I mention this because it creates one of the most confusion situations to troubleshoot. For those who get a dynotune, ask the tuner to set the face buttons to zero (and re-set TPS zero% and 100% in the PC3) before starting tune.

If all those things are good, and no exhaust or vacuum leaks, you should get a satisfying growl on engaged decel.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
If its not running super-hot and heating-up your leg then don't worry about it. If it does not pop 'up the intakes' you are good. If it doesn't bang once like a cannon you are good.

Next time you have a convenient time to remove one spark plug (get new 12mm crush washers in advance) from each jug, compare their condition while observing wetness dryness discoloration of the different parts (thread porcelain tips rim) then compare both to a color spark plug chart. If its an air cooled mc plug chart then its better but I don't see them much anymore. The race car charts are also good enough.

You want, on average, to be slightly rich. That condition gives a little bit of that deceleration rumble off-throttle with clutch still engaged. It also keeps acceleration fun.

Perfect plugs have square tip surfaces and variable light tan porcelain. The surfaces will by dry with little or no carbon ash. The non-projecting threads will only be slightly heat-discolored. The projecting threads can be darker but any ash build-up will have dislodged and fallen in the jug when removing the plug. If no ash on the plug then no worries about any having dislodged.

Your PC3 has three face buttons for adjustment of the low medium high rpm ranges. These act in addition to map changes and so they compound. If the LED lights are centered then they are at zero so the map runs un-modified by the face buttons. This is what you want.

Each line above or below center is equal to more than just one map value increase. The manual has the details sorry I do not recall exactly. Just a descriptive example: one face button LED increase might be equal to 3 values in the map field. Check.

What ever that number is, which you need to verify (sorry) it goes as follows: if you pull over and use the face buttons to change the low rpm range by 1 LED light level 'up' toward rich, and you ride awhile and like it, then check the PC3 manual to calculate how many numbers you increase the map's several low-rpm fields by. After you update the map, you need to return the face button LED's to center (zero modification).

I mention this because it creates one of the most confusion situations to troubleshoot. For those who get a dynotune, ask the tuner to set the face buttons to zero (and re-set TPS zero% and 100% in the PC3) before starting tune.

If all those things are good, and no exhaust or vacuum leaks, you should get a satisfying growl on engaged decel.
Thanks for the info, that's what I was the feedback I was hoping for. What are the odds you have a digital copy of the PCIII manual? My PCIII came with the bike when I got it years ago. I'm able to adjust the maps and whatnot as I think you had a link in your signature at least on the older version of the forum.
 

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Thanks for the info, that's what I was the feedback I was hoping for. What are the odds you have a digital copy of the PCIII manual? My PCIII came with the bike when I got it years ago. I'm able to adjust the maps and whatnot as I think you had a link in your signature at least on the older version of the forum.
Do you have a Serial or a USB PC3?

Also I ended up using a custom map that I got from Steeda as the bike ran better than Ivan's tune he sent me.
 

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Do you have a Serial or a USB PC3?

Also I ended up using a custom map that I got from Steeda as the bike ran better than Ivan's tune he sent me.
I'll have to check when I swing by my garage tonight. It was on the bike when I bought it and only adjusted it once last year after Ivan's flash and can't remember which one it is.
 

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Do you have a Serial or a USB PC3?

Also I ended up using a custom map that I got from Steeda as the bike ran better than Ivan's tune he sent me.
It's the USB PC3

What is the difference in the Steeda Map vs Ivan's? It was such a pain in the A$$ getting Ivan's Map installed that I haven't gone back in to compare other maps, try them out or learn much about it. Now that I've done a lot more to the bike, I probably need to give it a look. So, I welcome any recommendations!
 

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On your pc3usb there is version 1 that uses a crimp connector at the TPS Wire (or was upgraded from that to the Perfect Install). See the Documentation Forum's fuel managers section for pdf files illustrating).

Then there is PC3USB version 2 that has all plugs including at the TPS (see that pdf same place).

Once you know what you are looking at and can determine status please let us know.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
On your pc3usb there is version 1 that uses a crimp connector at the TPS Wire (or was upgraded from that to the Perfect Install). See the Documentation Forum's fuel managers section for pdf files illustrating).

Then there is PC3USB version 2 that has all plugs including at the TPS (see that pdf same place).

Once you know what you are looking at and can determine status please let us know.
Life has gotten in the way and I've been short on time recently! the PCIII I have has the crimp connector to the TPS Wire. Things seem to be running quite well with it recently and I don't plan on monkeying with it this season. I may look at a PCV or Cobra tuner this winter.

On a somewhat different note. I adjusted my idle down and want to confirm its setting. When I'm starting it cold, now that I have the LCV deleted, I have to hold the throttle for a bit till she warms up, once warm, she idle's perfect. A quick question about setting the idle and making sure I'm not damaging any internals during the warm up. It's normal for the "cold idle" to be quite low and not up to the 950-1000rpm's? I know that the oil won't cycle through the engine at a low idle and it seems like it takes longer than I think it should to warm up and properly idle. Seems like other folks just hold the throttle till their bike will idle on it's own and I'm able to do that fairly quickly thought the rpm's are still below whats needed. I want to make sure I don't need to keep holding the throttle unnecessarily if I don't need to but want to make sure the oil is cycling through the engine.
 

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The bike should never idle below 850~950 (its a v-twin so as long as no part of the firing cycle drops lower than 850) then warm idle is fine. When cold you need to hold it above 950 for the period of time necessary for it to idle on its own at 850~950. With the LCV installed and working its a matter of seconds depending on how cold it is. Mimic the LCV!
 
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