[Thommy_STC]

When reassambling, is it recommended to lube stubs with whatever type of 'grease' ? Copper stuff, because of the heat ?
Or will this 'weld' it together ?

 

[BlazinWarrior]

When reassambling, is it recommended to lube stubs with whatever type of 'grease' ? Copper stuff, because of the heat ?
Or will this 'weld' it together ?

Could use a little Anti sieze on the studs

 

[209SamoanWarrior]

When reassambling, is it recommended to lube stubs with whatever type of 'grease' ? Copper stuff, because of the heat ?
Or will this 'weld' it together ?

Funny you bring that up @Thommy_STC i searched online … forums .. YouTube etc… everyone has there take on that I’ve heard use of Anti-seize but also hear with the heat the motor produces it burn off in time … for the stud going into the head what you guys think ?
I didn’t see any Evidence of any kinda grease or lock tight on the threads ..

 

[Thommy_STC]

I would NOT go with lock tite, I think as this FIXES stuff even better.
Anti seize (if this the stuff to use) should avoid 'locking' to enable easy remocal next time.
That's what I meant with my non-tec language skills and not being a technician at all

 

[alanh]

@209SamoanWarrior ... My 2¢ follows:
Based on the enclosed photos you have or had an exhaust leak @ the front head pipe based on the discoloration of the stud and the c'bored hole.
A bent exhaust stud and or head pipe flange is 'A' typical of an aftermarket exhaust that's manufactured with a thinner 2-bolt exhaust flange such as V&H pipes because of the false tightening using the factory torque specs up front. This fact is well documented on the RSforum.
The OEM stud is technically known as a milled tapped end manifold stud and has a different Class Fit on the short threaded end that goes into the Head.

• OEM Exhaust Stud << Explanation

The YFSM calls for 11 ft-lb torque and no thread lock application. I suspect that the OEM stud end bottoms out in the threaded hole and sometimes picks up a small portion of the aluminum thread on the end of the stud during removal.

• I would suggest using a high temperature anti seize compound for your new studs and fasteners and be sure not to over torque the front fasteners. I use a 1/4" drive for the front head pipe flange nuts and anti seize compound on both sides of the OEM exhaust gasket.

Here's an excellent detailed post by @rij1 aka Rudy:

• Exhaust Stud, Nut and Bolt measurements. Removal/install

 

[209SamoanWarrior]

@209SamoanWarrior ... My 2¢ follows:
Based on the enclosed photos you have or had an exhaust leak @ the front head pipe based on the discoloration of the stud and the c'bored hole.
A bent exhaust stud and or head pipe flange is 'A' typical of an aftermarket exhaust that's manufactured with a thinner 2-bolt exhaust flange such as V&H pipes because of the false tightening using the factory torque specs up front. This fact is well documented on the RSforum.
The OEM stud is technically known as a milled tapped end manifold stud and has a different Class Fit on the short threaded end that goes into the Head.

• OEM Exhaust Stud << Explanation

The YFSM calls for 11 ft-lb torque and no thread lock application. I suspect that the OEM stud end bottoms out in the threaded hole and sometimes picks up a small portion of the aluminum thread on the end of the stud during removal.

• I would suggest using a high temperature anti seize compound for your new studs and fasteners and be sure not to over torque the front fasteners. I use a 1/4" drive for the front head pipe flange nuts and anti seize compound on both sides of the OEM exhaust gasket.

Here's an excellent detailed post by @rij1 aka Rudy:

• Exhaust Stud, Nut and Bolt measurements. Removal/install

View attachment 259031

Being that I’m not the original owner as I go through this bike I discover flaws in repairs and installs as I go through I try my best to correct. And yes the flanges one the aftermarket exhaust to have a slight bend with the front being the worst wondering if I can bend back ??.

so my plan with the new oem studs is to air gun out the holes it’s only The clutch side whole that seems to not want to accept the new stud as easy as the other side but starts with the help with a Ratchet tho I did not follow through with install till I ran it by you guys . Didn’t want to make things worse ya know

 

[alanh]

Being that I’m not the original owner as I go through this bike I discover flaws in repairs and installs as I go through I try my best to correct. And yes the flanges one the aftermarket exhaust to have a slight bend with the front being the worst wondering if I can bend back ??.

so my plan with the new oem studs is to air gun out the holes it’s only The clutch side whole that seems to not want to accept the new stud as easy as the other side but starts with the help with a Ratchet tho I did not follow through with install till I ran it by you guys . Didn’t want to make things worse ya know

Here's an excellent post by @umpire3

• Straightening exhaust flanges.

If need be, pick up a 3 pc 4 flute 8mm x 1.25p tap set and use an ignition wrench in lieu of a tap handle to clear the frame.

 

[209SamoanWarrior]

@alanh thanks for the forwarding that post lots helpful information.

as for the tapping bit I hope it doesn’t come to that never had to tap a threat before and let alone in my motorcycle might have to watch some YouTube hahaha

 

[arizonawarrior]

Threads are most likely fine, its just to clean the crud out of the threads. Then zap the hole with compressed air. Even keyboard air cans work, but I haven't seen it in years lol.

 

[209SamoanWarrior]

So in my search for knowledge via YouTube haha it recommends to chase the thread if bolt does not tighten by hand because of debris etc . So I rented a tap and die and chase set in worse case scenario…thoughts

 

[arizonawarrior]

Good move

 

[209SamoanWarrior]

 

[209SamoanWarrior]

Let me tell how Nerve wracking that was it… on a bike that’s hard to get parts for lol .

 

[arizonawarrior]

I know you are right. I forced myself to remember when dealing with aluminum holes that they are delicate and I did as much by hand as possible. Figured it's better to go slow and avoid stripping it. I did sweat those for certain, same as you lol.

You're doing great!

 

[209SamoanWarrior]

 

[209SamoanWarrior]

Ok I’m stuck I can Access the throttle side nut on the exhaust manifold but on the clutch side there is no room …. I need to be able remove this nut and reinstall with a torque wrench ….I have been told to remove the head ….but I don’t wanna do that … and I see no reason to take off gas tank ….but I am willing to take any advice …

 

[209SamoanWarrior]

Thinking about using a ratchet wrench with a flex head or a 90 degree socket adapter that spins … I don’t believe there is a torque spec for these nuts being removed correct?

 

[arizonawarrior]

Torque spec is in manual. Also provided in earlier posts in this thread. 11 and 14 depending. A member provided a link to a thread by Rudy for other needed info. Also see shorty wrench and trick connecting two wrenches. Use the one that let's your body deliver good momentary rotation without side pressure.

 

[209SamoanWarrior]

@arizonawarrior I did look at the thread for the wrench to wrench trick and all that stuff works great in the front . But on YouTube and so far on forum I see nothing about how to get the rear studs off without taking off the head ….maybe removing the seat lock side cover on the clutch side idk it’s really tight in there .
I will try with a shorty and a long wrench to see if that gets things off .
But getting a torque ratchet in there gonna be tricky for sure

 

[arizonawarrior]

Try also a wobbly short ratchet with 6-point socket. Not my favorite for squareness. But with patience it might work.