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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
The original Warrior key is two-sided. Identical teeth both sides. One side might have a worn tooth so first test is to rotate the key to test both sides.

When it's below freezing, the next test is to warm the key switch to melt any internal ice, then try again.

The idea that WD40 is not good for ignition switches is a bit wrong. If the key is not worn and there is no physical obstruction like ice inside, then spray WD40 inside. It's made-up of a group of lubricants, some of which have a side effect of displacing water so avoiding corrosion. I've been using it once a year on my mc's for ever. Zero troubles.

There are other things you can use too. No worries.

If teeth are fine and no internal obstruction and it's lubed, and it still does what you describe, then unless both sides of the key are worn, it's maybe a good idea to buy a replacement ignition key switch and a security screw from Yamaha, have it re-keyed to match your seat lock and fuel filler door, have a new replacement key cut to match, and get a couple spare keys while at it.

Just in case helpful, the fuel door and seat lock both use just a couple of the teeth on the key. Only the ignition switch uses all the teeth on the key (in all cases only the teeth one side of the key are used). Therefore, if your key has no trouble popping the seat or the fuel door, then those key teeth are okay (if any teeth are worn it's other teeth). Test both sides of the key in all cases.

Desertboy13 might have one for sale.

Hope this helps.
So I had the time tonight. Some dust remover air can spray proved to get some moisture out of the keyhole…. Then I sprayed in some “blaster graphite dry lubricant” and it seems MUCH better already. When things warm up I ll do it again and hopefully it’s good to go.

thanks again for the advice. Key works the gas cap and seat without fail. Now if you can make spring get here sooner ?
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