[Anonymous]

I was at my dealer yesterday looking for a synthetic oil to replace my transfer case oil. He told me I could use the Synthetic Drive Shaft Gear Oil ( P/N 9079e-sh001-00 ) for the FJR1300 in my warrior transfer case. Any opinions? Sometimes when you are at the dealer you might get somebody that maybe new or doesn't have the right answer if you know what I'm sayin.

 

[arizonawarrior]

Warrior Transfer CaseFluid: SAE 80 API "GL-4" Hypoid Gear Oil. Neither the Yamaha or Star websites include hypoid gear oil in the 'oils and lubes' section. No synthetic is shown for the Warrior transfer case. I guess you need a bottle in-hand to see if the FJR synthmeets/exceeds the hypoid.


There's lots of ink on the net, for example: (this may not be specific to motorcycles)


"Hypoid gear oil is usually a little lighter weight to use with hypoid gears. Hypoid gears have curved teeth. You can pretty much use just about any GL-5 gear oil 80w-90. I have run 85w-140, 80w-90 and am currently using the Mobil 1 synthetic. I have noticed very little difference between the gear oils except a slight temeprature difference. The best bet is to just stick with a good quality 80w-90, it is a middle of the road viscosity and it is cheap and readily available."



I'm not vouching for accuracy just showing what a search might yield.


Have you had a chance to search this forum for 'hypoid' yet?


http://rswarrior.com/search/SearchResults.aspx?q=hypoid&o=Relevance

 

[scawein]

http://autobahnmotoroilproducts.com/shop/article_226/Mobil-1-75_90-LS-Synthetic-Gear-Lube.html

This is what I have in my bike and I think it is the best for the transfer case. I did not buy it there, but wanted to get something to you.

I use the V-Twin syn oil form them and this for the transfer case.

It was suggested to me, and I thought it wise, to not go to syn oil until there was 2500 miles on the bike. I used the same concept for the transfer case.

 

[arizonawarrior]

From the Mobil1 website:

[*]Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lubricant LS 75W-90 is recommended for use in modern high performance automobiles like SUV's, Vans and Light duty trucks requiring API GL-5 and MT-1 level performance
[*]Mobil 1 Synthetic gear Lubricant LS 75W-90 is intended for initial fill, topping-off or refilling differentials, final drives, transfer cases and other gear applications where lubricants meeting API Service GL-5 and multi-purpose or mild EP gear lubricants are recommended
[*]Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lubricant LS 75W-90 can also be used in rear axles where API Service GL-4 lubricant is recommended
[*]Not recommended for automatic, manual or semiautomatic transmissions for which engine oil or automatic transmission fluids are recommended
[*]Where extended service intervals and warranties are required [/list]


~ http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil1_Synthetic_Gear_Lubricant_LS_75W-90.asp

 

[alanh]

Transfer Case Fluid

Yamaha specs outvery specifically SAE 80 API "GL-4" Hypoid Gear Oil for the transfer case as stated.


The transfer case doesn't contain hypoid gears

..... as shown here:

This is what the Warrior contains excluding the pump and ball brg's. These are straight cut spur gears andsilent chainand not a high pressure application at all. IMO, Yamaha needs to rewrite the API specs here. I'll have to take a look at the online owner's manual for the Roadliner to see

EDITED: No change on theRoadliner/Stratoliner models!

The GL-4 designation is fullycompatible with **yellow metal such as bronze that is used with syncho’s in a manual transmission etc. At elevated temperatures and extreme pressuresthere can be an acidicreaction with the bronze using some GL-5 fluids.
**Yellow non-ferrous metal pertains to copper an element and the common alloys such as brass & bronzeIf there is any bronze in the transfer case it can only be in the transfer case middle shaft pump assembly that is part of the cover housing and most likely just a bushing for the shaft.There aren't many straight petroleum products on the market that are GL-4 specific except the synthetic blends that are dual rated API GL4 & 5 for additional $'s.Havingfull comprehension and understanding of the differences and the possible ramifications i chose Valvoline 80W-90 standard gear oil (GL-5) when i replaced my middle shaft @ 8700 miles and all future changes. I haven't a clue what the dealer used @ the 600 mile warranty service.

NOTE: Be advised that the above information is my opinion only and not an endoresement for you to change or deviate from the factory manual specs

 

[arizonawarrior]

This is fantastic information.

 

[preacherman]

If I were you I would use what the manual says to use. No offense to techs but I have been told some very wrong stuff by Yamaha dealers.

 

[sticky]

is there a difference between the engine oil and transfer case oil or does the engine oil also lubricate the transfer case. meaning when i change the oil am i also changing the transfer case oil. i do know the warrior has a wet clutch (bathed in oil). so if u are planning to switch to synthetic. do so after about 2500 miles. this allows the rings to properly set in the cylinders. they also make a synthetic blend which is better for the clutch, as fully synthetic is actually so slippery the clutch fights for friction. just my 2cents after years of road racing.

 

[arizonawarrior]

Engine Oil -YamaLube4 20W40. Note that as of 2008 Yamaha has changed its oil requirement even retroactive for old modelsto10W40 below 40F, and 20W50 above 40F. Summer oil and winter oil. Or use synth.


Transfer Case Oil- SAE80 API-GL4 Hypoid Gear Oil.


Two different cases. Did you get a Service Manual yet?

 

[sticky]

thanks arizona, havnt gotten a manual yet, seemslike a good idea. the fill under the seat w the dipstick is for the engine oil, correct? where do u drain and fill the transfer case? thanks again

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks for all the info guys.Great stuff!

 

[tomba]

Or use synth.

Hiya - #1 again for great info - it might be written somewhere but when you guys air the discussion it feels so much better - so my question is if using 'full' synth? can the oil be winter and summer use now? and which grade exactly of synth - and could that grade alsobe semi synth - thanks

 

[otherwhitemeat]

thanks arizona, havnt gotten a manual yet, seemslike a good idea. the fill under the seat w the dipstick is for the engine oil, correct? where do u drain and fill the transfer case? thanks again

Some of this information is in your standard owners manual.If you dont have one of these you can look at the top of the page and click downloads, there you will find a .pdf version of the manual.

 

[oldman]

Transfer case location - right side of the bike, it's the big black oval shape just under the two oil lines, Look toward the front of it and you will see a big slotted plug. That's where you check the level and fill it. The drain is under the bike, approx under the plug.


Tomba - the grade should be what Yamaha calls for regardless if it's dino, a blend or full synthetic. BTW, most, actually all I know of, synthetic blends, are only required to be 15% synthetic in order to call themselves a blend. In other words, 85% is still straight dino oil. They are pretty much just a waste of money.


You will hear many different opinions on when to switch to synthetic oils, here's mine. I have been using synthetic in my cars, trucks, bikes, and ATVs since 1983. I always go to synthetic at first oil change, right after break in. Or, on used vehicles, as soon as I can after purchase. That means, for the new ones, depending on how lazy I am, it gets changed to synthetic with somewhere between 25 and 100 miles on the clock.m I think my Warrior was getting up close to 50 miles on it when I made the change. In the 26 years I have been doing this I have had nothing other than great running engines.

 

[gchalifo]

Where's my "that was easy" button!.


peace of cake...

 

[Martyn13]

Is the transfer case drain plug the bolt between the two hex bolts just below where it says "Made in Japan" at the botom of the case?


And thanks Yamaha for placing thecheck level/refill plug behind the bloddy exhaust pipe.


I have an owners manual which helpfully advises me to take my vehicle to the dealer to have the transfer case oil changed. So I still don't know how much I'm supposed to put in there assuming I have the wherewithall to get the existing oil out and new stuff in.


My dealer just quoted me 500 dollars give or take a dollar or two, for a 16000 mile sevice.


My Midnight is at 15700 right now so I'm doing everything I can myself. Changing the plugs proved to be easier than I expected. New filter purchased so will chnge the oi tomorrow. Just a bit in the dark still vis a vis the transfer oil quantity.


A service manual must bepurchased soon.


And more tools.


Loads more tools!

Having done some research after asking the questions I now know how much oil to put into the transfer case. Doh!

 

[BillM]

According to the service manual, the transfer case holds .52 US Quarts.



Using the Fill Plug as the center of a clock dial, the drain plug is at the 7:00 position. Not under the bike bot on the side.

 

[Scoper50]

I am a professional mechanic and have been for 10 years. In my expert opinion I don't belive synthetic oil is necessary in the transfer case. It is my understanding that all the oil does is lubricate a chain. Thats it. Just use the oil recommended in the manual and change it at the reccommended intervals. Don't waste your money on synthetic oil for the transfer case.

 

[Martyn13]

Thank's Bill. I kind of figured that was it and got confirmtion by undoing it. HAHAHA!


Only lost a tiny tiny spot of course. Didn't take the little devil all the way out.


Good job too because guess what?


( Only one guess cus it's so obvious what's coming next...)


I can't get that sodding slotted plug to budge with the tools I have. No facilities to make one - I know exactly what I need - and I have no intention of using something that "might" do the trick only to gouge a huge channel through the paint and possibly the case, never mind buggering up the actual slot.


'Course it might be easier if I remove the exhaust - I'm a stock muffler fan,well I used to be *big eye-roll* - but then I'm going to be opening up a whole new set of problems with which to deal. No time and the bike is used everyday morning and evening except in snow and ice. I can't have it sitting in the garage in bits for a coupe of days.


So, what's the trick? There must be one. There always is!