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Discussion Starter #1
I replaced the rear signals with led flashers as the factory ones were way to big for my taste, and now they flash fast.Any ideas.when I flash,I like to do it slow ,,LOL
 

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Yes the factory T-signal relay is not made to run with LED lights. They do not draw enough current to work properly so you need to wire in a Badlands T-Signal module that will control the LEDs and will make them flash normal. You can go to any bike shop and ask them for this Module and explain what you have done to your bike..they will hook you up.
 

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or you can just use 10ohm 15 watt resistors (about a dollar a piece). You can get them at Radio Shack.

They have to be wired in between the + and - of each light. They will simulate the bulb you used to have and then the LED's will flash at the same rate they used to.

If you need a drawing, just get back and I will draw something for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks,,I had a feeling that it had something to do with the bulb wattage. During bike week,,A tech at the Yamaha display told me to never replace the bulbs with anything other than the correct wattage"but do you think i listened" he said something about the grounding goes through the pcm ???????????didnt get that at all
 

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The LED's take so little power compared to the bulbs and must be managed. I am not sure of any specific issue it would cause other than the system reporting a bulb out. This method has been used for years on cars, bulb goes out, they flash faster, you know a bulb has burned out.

Bulb takes about 1-2amps (1000-2000 ma) compared to 20-30 ma for the LED.
 

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You will also get the "starter click of death" if you use the kill switch. Many topics on this if you search. Go with a resistor, load equalizer, or small bulb in the headlight bucket.
 

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The clicking that you get is rediculously annoying. If you chose not to correct the problem you can avoid the clicking by turning the bike off in nuetral and leaving the kill switch on.
 

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I bought an electronic flasher off of ebay (one for both the R6 and the Warrior) It controls the flash rate electronically so you don't have to wire in resistors or any other bs.
 

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Doing this works for the flash rate but bypasses the Warrior's auto-cancel feature (see your owner manual). You'll have signals just fine. But don't forget to turn them off. Many of us believe this solution to fast-flashis a mistake since auto-cancel is responsible for saving more rider's lives than can be counted, simply because the signal wasn't on - so a cager didn't think the bike was turning into the driveway (in which case the car would have pulled out into the lane).Search for 'flash rate' or similar.


YellowSnow said:
I bought an electronic flasher off of ebay (one for both the R6 and the Warrior) It controls the flash rate electronically so you don't have to wire in resistors or any other bs.
 

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The "Click of Death" doesn't have to do with removing the signals. It has to do with removing the front running lights that are part of the front signals (2-filament bulbs). The running lights are used to consume remaining power in some on-board systems and sensors, including the compression release. One solution is to run a bulb inside the headlight bucket where it won't melt anything. Another solution is to wire your license plate light bulb all the way up to your headlight bucket and plug it into the wire that powered the front running lights (leave the back power wire empty and protected against short-out).


It has to be a bulb, but it can be very small, amazingly small, do a search for "Click of Death". Keep in mind that any clever way to plug a bulb into the wire that fed the front running lights will solve the issue - it doesn't matter if you can view the bulb's light or not - but it does matter that the hot bulb doesn't burn anything or burn out for lack of adequate cooling space.


Loren78 said:
You will also get the "starter click of death" if you use the kill switch. Many topics on this if you search. Go with a resistor, load equalizer, or small bulb in the headlight bucket.
 

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Arizona Warrior said:
- but it does matter that the hot bulb doesn't burn anything or burn out for lack of adequate cooling space.

I can attest to the burning of things!! I tried this and tucked the bulb up under the tach. While re-installing everything, I started to smell something and saw some smoke comming from under the tach!! I wrapped the bulb in electrical tape and it started to melt it off, good thing I caught it or I may have been broken down on the side of the road somewhere.
 
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