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There is already one version of a fork seal change here http://www.rswarrior.com/forums/21-how-tos-general-maintenance-tips/133571-how-install-new-fork-seals.html I thought to do an updated version with pics that work. Some of the writing I will just copy and paste while updating with my own info

I am not a proffesional just a learn on the fly mechanical guy so take this for what it is. Its what I dont right or wrong it seems to been working.

1) First remove the front fork covers. These are the plastic guards positioned on the front of the fork at the very bottom.
2) Remove the fender.
3) Remove the brake calipers.
4) Remove the pinch bolt (screw) in the bottom of the right fork assembly. It's there to pinch the bottom of that assembly and lock in the front axle.
5) Remove the axle and front wheel.
6) Loosen the upper bracket (triple tree) pinch bolts.
7) While holding onto the fork, loosen the lower bracket pinch bolts and slide the fork assembly out.

Now you need to break loose the lower tube assembly from the upper. In the bottom of the fork you will see a socket screw down deep in the assembly. It's better to have an air operated tool to break these loose, but I was able to do it on a piece of carpet with the tools shown below.

3/8" Ratchet with 3" extension
10mm Hex Key socket

8) Insert the 10mm hex socket into the hole until you can feel it engage in the bolt thats down there.
Since I didn't have air tools to break loose the socket screw in the bottom of the assembly, I simply laid it on a piece of carpet, placed my foot on the bottom of the assembly (black section) to steady it and simply stepped down quickly with my other foot on the ratchet. It took me a couple tries to get this to work but it eventually did work. It broke loose.
(If this fails take it to a shop where they can simply break it loose for you but don't remove the screw until you're ready to drain the oil.)


9) Next remove the screw, keeping that end upright, and then turn upside down to drain it into an oil pan. You'll need to work the fork assembly up and down to pump out all the oil.
10) Slide the lower assembly complete out.

11) On the upper assembly with a very thin flat tipped screwdriver, pry the dust seal out.

12) Next remove the retainer clip with the screwdriver.
Its hard to see here but maybe you can make out the clip.

Here I have pried the clip up a bit so its easier to see

13) Now you can pry out the old oil seal being very careful not scratch the inner walls of the assembly.


Note before you remove the seal notice that the number/lettering on the seal faces down in the assembly. This is where I had my difficulty by placing the new ones in upside down.
14) Remove the washer just below the seal and clean it. ( I didnt get pictures of this but its just a big washer)

Now reassembly begins. (I wiped everything down with a clean cloth)
15) Reinstall washer into the upper assembly
16) I used electrical tape on the end of my chrome fork tube to avoid damaging the dust seal or the oil seal when installed. You could also use a small sandwich bag.

17) Oil down the chrome fork tube and put a little oil on the inside of the new seals
18) Slide the dust seal onto the lower assembly first

19) Now slide the new fork seal on the tube. Make sure the side with number/letters goes on first. As you're sliding it on do it in a circular motion. This will help avoid damaging the seal. You will notice two holes in the chrome tube. Continue the circular motion as you move the seal down the tube and past the holes to the bottom.
20) Next with the dust seal and the oil seal located at the bottom of the chrome fork tube, insert the tube into the upper assembly. It will slide down so far and probably stop. Simply turn it and it will eventually drop down another step. Now there may be one more step to drop before the damper rod assembly is completely down to it's lowest position.
21) Now I didnt have a proper tool to set the oil seal. So here is what I did. First I took the old oil seal and cut a section out of it. Then filled the edges so there was no sharp points.


I didnt get a good pictures of it but when you slide the old, now cut, oil seal on the fork be sure that its oriented in the same way it came off. This way when you use it to push against the new oil seal to set it you are applying pressure to the outside of the new oil seal.

22) Now with your fingers slide the old oil seal down so its resting evenly on the new oil seal. Then take a roll of electrical tape and start wrapping it around the lower assembly as close as possible to the old oil seal. You want to wrap the tape until its built up to probably 3/16".


23) Now I stood the fork on the ground standing upside down, with the cap of the upper assembly on the floor and the lower assembly in the air. Then I as quickly and forcefully as I could compressed the fork. You will feel the seal set it self. I went ahead and compressed the fork a few times just to be sure.

24) Now installed the retaining clip then slid the dust seal down and into place.
25) I then installed the bolt into the bottom of the fork tightening it as good as I could.
26) I turned the fork over so its standing in the proper direction and then unscrewed the cap. I then poured the oil in. (similar to this write up on how to change the fork oil) http://www.rswarrior.com/forums/21-how-tos-general-maintenance-tips/165429-fork-oil-replacement-how.html
I added the oil back this way simply because I did not have a hose and funnel to insert into the bolt hole in the bottom of the fork.

I then reinstalled everything on the bike.
 

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Monty ... Once again you display your talents with this Neat technical write-up and detailed photos of your Front Fork Seal R & R .... very nicely executed repair IMO.

You'll want to add this to your ever increasing Punch-List in your Signature!
 

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This is perfect. I was using the original guide, but couldn't see any pictures. When replacing the oil, is there a special trick to keep air out of the damper rods? The manual assumes you've compressed the spring with their special tool and have access to the inner damper rod (which most folks don't). The old guide talked about using a funnel and tube to get the oil down into the bottom of the lower assembly. Did you do any of this or have any issues with air getting in with just pouring it down the top cap?
 

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This is a great how to for the fork seals. I did this last Friday. 78 degrees in chicagoland gave me incentive to start this never done before job. Well three hours and the bike is back together. Total success. No special tools just the tips from the original right up.
The fluid that came out was filthy. Probably original oil from 2002. So now its good for many years to come.
 

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Give you guys props for getting this done without the tools. My 06 forks would not come apart no matter what trick I tried. That bottom Allen just spun the inner shaft.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Give you guys props for getting this done without the tools. My 06 forks would not come apart no matter what trick I tried. That bottom Allen just spun the inner shaft.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
I got it loose no problem. Getting it tight was an issue. I wish I would of had a new copper crush washer. But I didnt and a few hundred km down the road it starting leaking a bit resulting in a roadside repair.....
 

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How do you stop the inner rod assembly from spinning?
If coming from the bottom of the Fork Leg cap screw you'll want to tighten up the fork spring compression adjustment to max. If that doesn't work you'll need an impact or purchase the proper tools and come from the top etcetera ...
 

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If coming from the bottom of the Fork Leg cap screw you'll want to tighten up the fork spring compression adjustment to max. If that doesn't work you'll need an impact or purchase the proper tools and come from the top etcetera ...
Have to come from the top then. Thanks, alanh.
 
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