RS Warrior Forum banner

1 - 20 of 31 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,256 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I am wondering if anybody who has done the FPR relocation would mind posting a step by step how to?


I have looked at the setup in it's stock sight, andmyconcerns are -fuel from the reserve tank going everywhere, how much 5/16" FI Line do I need to buy, how do I undo the stock setup between the jugs, and at the reserve tank? Is it safe to zip tie it to the frame?


Any pics would help!


I have read all the posts that I could find, but haven't seen details on how.


Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,636 Posts
I will do my best for you bud.


A foot of the FI hose should be plenty.


Once you get the FPR out of it stock location be sure to bolt it back together.


I used FI clamps for this whole part but you really only NEED them on the line going from the FPR to the throttle boddies.


The line currently going from the FPR to the throttle bodies will need to be split with a razor and removed from the two 90 deg plastic elbows because you will reuse the elbows. Be very careful while splitting this. Don't go too deep because there are some o-rings on the 90's you will need to re-use. After running the 5/16 line from the reserve to the FPR, (It is fine to zip-tie it to the frame by the way)take the remainder and attach it to one of the 90's with a FI hose clamp. Hook the 90to the FPR and run the hose down by the throttle body(see pic). I reused the spring that was on the stock drybreak line as protection for this line. Plug the other 90 into the throttle body hook-up and cut you hose as needed to make it up to the 90. Try to make the length so the hose will not touch anything as much as possible. Once again use a FI hose clamp. Here are some pics of how mine is ran. If you have any particular ?'s for me I would be more than happy to help.


This is a view looking down from the top.



By claypool782, shot with DSC-T300 at 2009-04-03


Here is looking up from the throttle body connection



By claypool782, shot with DSC-T300 at 2009-04-03


Here is a pic of my fpr location. I had the open to air port up.



By claypool782, shot with DSC-T300 at 2009-04-03


Hope this helps. Like I said if you have a specific ? let me know.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,636 Posts
I can't remember is much fuel came out. It couldn't have been too much though. But I wouldn't do it in my living room.LOL


Might get a foot and a half just to be sure but it will get you there. Not everyone re-uses the spring it just seemed like a good idea at the time. Biggest thing is just take your time while running the hose from the FPR to the Throttle bodies. Try toposition the hose in a way that it flexes away from the throttle linkage but doesn't toch the jug too much. Good luck bud.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,924 Posts
Funny I should come upon this post tonight.I had my gas tank off today cleaning my air filters. I looked at the bike for a while in the coil area and in the fpr area. I was thinking about cleaning these areas up. Do you have the specs on the relocating plate? And how long does it take to complete the job?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,636 Posts
I got my coil relocation plate from akitadog. He makes it perfect and it is cheap enough. It is a job you need to take your time with. I personally enjoyed doing it all by myself without anyone rushing me. I printed the install instructions off of Redhorse's site and followed them to a tee. They were perfect. Here is a link to the instructions.


http://home.roadrunner.com/~redhorse/coil_relocation.htm


Good luck bud.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,256 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Thanks to Baclay9's awesome how to instructions and pics (especially!), I got my FPR relocation done today. No leaks. Not touching jugs. Zip tied to frame securely.


I reused the stock hose from the reserve tank, and mounted it directly to the FPR, reusing the stock clamps, on the reserve tank side. I only used about 6" of new 5/16" FI hose, a light duty spring over the hose, and two FI clamps on the throttle body side.


Didn't take any pics. It looks just like Baclay9's above. Put it back together, and took it for a ride. It's the first sunny day we've had in weeks!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,256 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Some pics for reference:


Finished








before cutting and repainting of motor mount





The cage is fastened to the motor mount by the farthest left and right bolt holes. Easy to remove.





The dry break is fastened to the motor mount by the second from the right bolt hole.


You cansee the spring covering the FI line to the right of the upper motor mount.





The FPR is shown relocated here. You can see the spring covering the FI line as it is routed between the cylinders.


Hope this helps somebody!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
13,680 Posts
It can be cleaned up a bit more by routing the fuel line behind the motor mount.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,256 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
OldMan said:
It can be cleaned up a bit more by routing the fuel line behind the motor mount.

I didn't like that idea for myself. I did it like this for two reasons:


1) To be able to take the tank off in short order.


2) The Chrome Dry Break actually covers the unsightly motor mount a little.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
13,680 Posts
My dry break actually sits just in front of the motor mount so I can easily get at it for tank removal. Also, I cut the motor mount down so it doesn't stick out so far to the left. Take alook at the top center of the mount, where the bolt is. The vertical part, with the bolt hole, drops down about 1 1/2 inchto the horizontal part of the mount. From the outer edge of my mountback to the vertical piece is only about 1/2 inch now. Looks much cleaner and the mount is still plenty strong. Many many guys have done the same thing.
 
1 - 20 of 31 Posts
Top