[VeNoM_95]

I recently got my warrior I picked up running after it sat for a while, run pretty good for a couple weeks and now I’m having what come across to me as fuel issues. It starts up fine, idles great for a couple minutes and will get a hard idle and eventually choke itself out (sometimes with a little puff of black smoke, sometimes not) I’ve already changed injectors, fuel pump, I purged the lines and tried running with 93 octane and sea foam to clean everything out some due to the bike having sat outside untouched for a few years before I bought it. I believe I may have a sticking FPR or one going out. Seeing as that the part is discontinued what do you guys suggest for replacement with a different bikes or maybe a universal that someone has had some luck with or possibly a known way to fix or clean it out? Thanks in advance for all the help.

 

[arizonawarrior]

What is the bike's cold startup rpm versus warm idle rpm?

Can you post clear pictures of what's under the rider seat, and what's under the top fuel tank?

 

[VeNoM_95]

What is the bike's cold startup rpm versus warm idle rpm?

Can you post clear pictures of what's under the rider seat, and what's under the top fuel tank?

Cold idle I had set for 900 and creeps up to just over 1000 when warmed up, seemed to run better that way.

the FPR is disconnected in these photos since I made and installed AIS block off plates while she doesn’t move. I’ll try to get a idle video later to showcase the problem better

 

[arizonawarrior]

Okay, I'm in the garage tonight with wrenches wenches brothers and beers. Your pictures and this trouble interest me. It has to be a simple root. For example, the 900rpm cold is a red flag, and warm idle being higher than cold idle is a hint.

Sometimes when folks relocate the TEMPERATURE SENSOR (the all brass looking thingy on the frame neck plate) they over tighten it which does damage. That can confuse the ECU decision making process. There is most often an error code.

The (first start) cold idle should be 1000 to 1100rpm. Again that's cold idle. Then as you know the LINEAR CONTROL VALVE (LCV) controls a reduction to warm idle rpm of 900rpm or so.

Let me know if your post is just confused. We all get that, it happens every day. So it's good to confirm with you on this item.

If there are any CURRENT codes in the gauge, or yellow check engine lights, let me know.

I have a giant wiring diagram on my mc garage wall. I'm going to pull these pics you posted onto my desktop so I can see giant image details. But can't right now, so sometime tonight after wrenching etc.

Later.

Griz.

 

[Churchkey]

Cold idle I had set for 900 and creeps up to just over 1000 when warmed up, seemed to run better that way.

the FPR is disconnected in these photos since I made and installed AIS block off plates while she doesn’t move. I’ll try to get a idle video later to showcase the problem better

The LCV is not working.
Disconnect the large (LCV) hose from each throttle body & cap the ports for a TEST do not connect the throttle bodies together with a hose.
Set idle speed when the engine is hot @ 950.

No hose on the FPR hose port it should be open to the atmosphere.

If the FPR ends up being the culprit a FPR from a Yamaha R1 or another Yamaha FI model may work.

 

[arizonawarrior]

I don't see anything jumping out at me. I'll wait to hear back on my question about cold start idle and warm idle. Just in case.

 

[VeNoM_95]

I don't see anything jumping out at me. I'll wait to hear back on my question about cold start idle and warm idle. Just in case.

Didn’t manage to have time to double check the idle today, I’ll do that tomorrow and I’ll check the LCV. As far as codes go it hasn’t thrown any. No check engine light as well,
As far I did forget to plug in the LCV tubes the first time I ran it say a month ago and it ran rough with a code plugged them in and the light but after hooking it back up it all went away, but it never caused the motor to stall out but I’ll run that check after verifying idle speeds. (As far as tube to open air, do you mean FPr hooked up as per stock config with vacuum port open atmosphere? Never actually ran a vacuum to throttle body just want to be sure).

 

[VeNoM_95]

I don't see anything jumping out at me. I'll wait to hear back on my question about cold start idle and warm idle. Just in case.

The LCV is not working.
Disconnect the large (LCV) hose from each throttle body & cap the ports for a TEST do not connect the throttle bodies together with a hose.
Set idle speed when the engine is hot @ 950.

No hose on the FPR hose port it should be open to the atmosphere.

If the FPR ends up being the culprit a FPR from a Yamaha R1 or another Yamaha FI model may work.

What am I looking for with this test exactly? For it to run better or worse or just the same. Also it idled for around 3 minutes and just stayed around 1000 the whole time. Adjusted idle down some, it dropped to around 900, went into a rough choppy idle, then jumped up to around 1100 before it died and stayed there. I tried adjust down slightly more and it dropped idle like previously, got choppy and died.