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Discussion Starter #1
Here is the deal. I have a 2002 Warrior. When I bought it the previous owner had modified the front fender to fit a bigger tire on the front (120 90 B 18 M/C 65H) In order to accomadate this tire he apparently fabricated fender mount extensions (see Pic #1). It seems due to this mod, that the Brake Junction (pic #3) hits the top of the fender (pic #2), pretty badly.





I have removed the fender and would like to repair, however I need to remedy this problem. The obvious thing is to go back to stock size tire. What I am wondering is can I relocate this brake junction? Or is there something out there I am totally not thinking about.





Thanks in advance for your advice and time.








 

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I'm not sure what the max travel should be on the front end, but it looks like yours travels quite a bit.


You could do away with the brake hose junction if you went to a 2 line system, but someone has already paid to change to braided lines. You don't have the length in the hoses as they stand to move them elsewhere.


I would check the function of your forks, they look like they are a bit soft. Maybe stiffer springs might help.





Edit. Just checked the manual - Fork travel = 135mm
 

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Discussion Starter #4
bucky685 said:
Do the forks stick up above the triple clamps at all?


They should fit flush.




Maybe about 1/4 inch Can post pic if needed.


The modified brackets are aprrox 1" to 1 1/4" in spacing.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Warrior_uk said:
I'm not sure what the max travel should be on the front end, but it looks like yours travels quite a bit.


You could do away with the brake hose junction if you went to a 2 line system, but someone has already paid to change to braided lines. You don't have the length in the hoses as they stand to move them elsewhere.


I would check the function of your forks, they look like they are a bit soft. Maybe stiffer springs might help.





Edit. Just checked the manual - Fork travel = 135mm




What is the best way to tell if forks are weak?


There is no apparent leaking on forks.
 

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1. Slide your forks down until they are flush with the top tripple clamp.


2. Adjust your preload on the top of the fork legs.


3. Change the fork oil, making sure to refill to the proper level.





No higher than your fender extensions are, I don't think it should have damaged your fender so badly.
 

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Is their any deep nicks or deep scratches in the chrome sealing section of the fork tubes? Any scratches or deep nicks can cause the seals to leak...if the seals are leaking then thats what is causing such a long travel (over travel) of the forks themselves....check for any leakage as well...if the fork tubes look ok and the seals are not dry rotted or torn then I would definitely replace the fluid and seals and the springs as well...then again..might be a good excuse to go to R-1 Forks...lol...good luck. I used to re-build hydraulic cylinders and pneumatic cylinders which very much resemble a gas charged shock. Let me know if I can help in any way...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
SpeegsWarrior said:
Is their any deep nicks or deep scratches in the chrome sealing section of the fork tubes? Any scratches or deep nicks can cause the seals to leak...if the seals are leaking then thats what is causing such a long travel (over travel) of the forks themselves....check for any leakage as well...if the fork tubes look ok and the seals are not dry rotted or torn then I would definitely replace the fluid and seals and the springs as well...then again..might be a good excuse to go to R-1 Forks...lol...good luck. I used to re-build hydraulic cylinders and pneumatic cylinders which very much resemble a gas charged shock. Let me know if I can help in any way...




I have inspected the forks and they seem to be in very good condition. No apparentleaking, no nicks, or scrathes. Outer seals have no signs of dry rotting. I Took the advice here andtweaked the pre load on the forks. I refered to ownws manaual for proper adjustment. I also have slid the Forks down the triple trees about 1/4". I would say between both methods I have gained at least 1/2" maybe even 5/8"


I guess the true test will be when I put the freshly repaired and painted fender back on. I am gonna be very nervous around bumps. Of course I live in Maine so the roads are horrible in the spring. But then again spring may never even get here!


Thanks so much for your help guys. This is a great resource!
 

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Front wheel suspension travel is 5.3" (135mm).


+1 Jabo is right on- I believe. The preload tension on the front fork will help some. How much gap is between the tire tread on a new tire, then the bottom of the fender? I'm wondering if there's room to drop the fender a hint too.


BTW are there anydriving lights bolted onto the outside edges of the lower triple clamp (using bolts #39 below)?


jabo said:
1. Slide your forks down until they are flush with the top tripple clamp.


2. Adjust your preload on the top of the fork legs.


3. Change the fork oil, making sure to refill to the proper level.


No higher than your fender extensions are, I don't think it should have damaged your fender so badly.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Arizona Warrior said:
Front wheel suspension travel is 5.3" (135mm).


+1 Jabo is right on- I believe. The preload tension on the front fork will help some. How much gap is between the tire tread on a new tire, then the bottom of the fender? I'm wondering if there's room to drop the fender a hint too.


BTW are there anydriving lights bolted onto the outside edges of the lower triple clamp (using bolts #39 below)?


I do have light mounted on the trees but they do not use bolt #39. As for dropping fender down more, I dont think that would be possible. When I removed the fender it had some scuffing from the tire hitting the underside as well.
 

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So you need to relocate the front 3-part braided brake lineand re-mount the fitting in a clear area to get the rest.


Since the front suspension travel is 135mm may I ask how much space exists today between the surface of the tree - assuming the brake line is relocated - and the surface of the front fender - assuming an un-damaged fender?


The only place to get more mm's is to move the forks down lower in the trees. Maybesomeone will chime-in with the minimum dimension required from the flat surface of the top tree bracket - to the top of the fork tube. I was thinking 1/4" but not sure.
 

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The problem is the extensions that raise the fender up. You can lower the forks slightly in the triple clamps but I wouldn't go any lower than flush. You could also relocate the brake line hydraulic junction but your fender still might contact the lower triple clamp. If you go back to the stock size tire,which works fine and mount your fender to the stock location your worries are over, except for the existing dings in your fender. That parts a bummer, looks like a nice paint job. The previous owner just screwwed up and didn't consider the travel and clearance.
 

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The fender shouldn't hit if everything is stock. If he put on a 1 1/4" extension, he must have tried running a 21" wheel, or was a meathead.

Pull the extensions out, or at least shorten them. The only reason the tire was rubbing was the big-a$$ dent in the fender.


I lowered my bike by raising the forks in the clamps 1", and the fender does not hit the brake junction. I don't see how any tire that fits on an 18" wheel would need 1 1/4" of additional clearance. Sounds like a cob job, and I would check the PO's handiwork elsewhere.
 
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