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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello I bought an 03 warrior 1700. The bike sat for nearly 5 years . I replaced the common things for spark and got it running coil packs and plugs. The bike will start up every time but I have fuel coming from the rear jug it's firing but all the fuel causes the plug to foul. I replaced injectors still the same problem there was a tuner on the bike that got eliminated in the process as well any ideas why I'm getting so much fuel yo that jug
 

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Welcome from SoCal!

I think you need a fuel manager. We'll need to know a bit more about your setup such as exhaust, intake mods, AIS status, etc to properly assess what's going on but here's my guess on your setup:

2-2 exhaust, AIS delete, some sort of big air kit (BAK).

It's possible your ECU has been flashed but if it sat for 5 years, it's not likely meaning that with those mods, you have to have a fuel manager installed. On top of all that, there's a chance one of your sensors has gone bad giving the ECU incorrect information. Like I said, we'll need more info and of course, pics are always a plus (you'll need 10 posts to unlock that function).

Hang in there and we'll get you going! Where abouts are you from?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Welcome from SoCal!

I think you need a fuel manager. We'll need to know a bit more about your setup such as exhaust, intake mods, AIS status, etc to properly assess what's going on but here's my guess on your setup:

2-2 exhaust, AIS delete, some sort of big air kit (BAK).

It's possible your ECU has been flashed but if it sat for 5 years, it's not likely meaning that with those mods, you have to have a fuel manager installed. On top of all that, there's a chance one of your sensors has gone bad giving the ECU incorrect information. Like I said, we'll need more info and of course, pics are always a plus (you'll need 10 posts to unlock that function).

Hang in there and we'll get you going! Where abouts are you from?
I'm from alabama it's has a k and n air filter kit ais delete The tuner is no longer on there it may have been a fuel management block there was no stickers on it it had like 4 or 5 lights?
Welcome from SoCal!

I think you need a fuel manager. We'll need to know a bit more about your setup such as exhaust, intake mods, AIS status, etc to properly assess what's going on but here's my guess on your setup:

2-2 exhaust, AIS delete, some sort of big air kit (BAK).

It's possible your ECU has been flashed but if it sat for 5 years, it's not likely meaning that with those mods, you have to have a fuel manager installed. On top of all that, there's a chance one of your sensors has gone bad giving the ECU incorrect information. Like I said, we'll need more info and of course, pics are always a plus (you'll need 10 posts to unlock that function).

Hang in there and we'll get you going! Where abouts are you from?
Ok I'm an idiot through the excitement of everything it was a revtech dfo that I pulled off in guessing that's my problem can I just plug the dfo back in ?
 

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Could be a bad injector that is stuck open or it could be the ECU keeping the circuit going and it keeps pumping fuel or the wiring to that circuit could be damaged.

If there was a Power Commander or other fuel controller that has been removed then it has been reverted back to stock (fuel wise).

I would check to see if the fuel injector is just continually shooting fuel.
Also that much fuel will ruin your oil. Ruining the lubrication of the pistons........the list goes on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Could be a bad injector that is stuck open or it could be the ECU keeping the circuit going and it keeps pumping fuel or the wiring to that circuit could be damaged.

If there was a Power Commander or other fuel controller that has been removed then it has been reverted back to stock (fuel wise).

I would check to see if the fuel injector is just continually shooting fuel.
Also that much fuel will ruin your oil. Ruining the lubrication of the pistons........the list goes on.
It has a revtech dfo that was unplugged just changed the oil just replaced both coils and all new ngk plugs both fuel injectors and pulsing regularly I replaced them last week fuel pump cuts off as it's supposed to oil is at a regular level the bike starts and runs sounds excellent if you give it throttle it clears up I'm pretty sure the dfo I took off has something to do with it the bike has 2-2 exhaust k n air kit ais delete it's hitting on all four cylinders I don't get it
 

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I'm from alabama it's has a k and n air filter kit ais delete The tuner is no longer on there it may have been a fuel management block there was no stickers on it it had like 4 or 5 lights?

Ok I'm an idiot through the excitement of everything it was a revtech dfo that I pulled off in guessing that's my problem can I just plug the dfo back in ?
Interesting.

1. I too am from Alabama but I currently reside in Los Angeles (for the last 20 years or so). I grew up near Huntsville. There are several members from that area so maybe someone could connect with you in person and help you out.

2. I've never heard of the Revtech DFO but I did a quick search and see that it appears to be very similar to a Power Commander. Pretty much everyone on here either uses Power Commanders (III or V) or Cobras (can't think of what various models, but they're here).

I'd look at adding the fuel manager back on and get a proper map in it to see if that helps. Also, @Heftysmurf is super helpful and knowledgable. Follow his advice as well as most other memebers that will chime in.

And I see you said something about "all four cylinders". While we have four sparkplugs, we only have two cylinders. ;)
 

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If the injectors are new and working correctly then the pcm is first concern, had it been bumped? Does it run to rich at mid rpm or only at idle? Pcm handles idle dfo above idle.
 

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Are you 100% certain:

1. That each ignition coil's primary wires are connected to the proper cylinder's coil?

2. That each intake air sensor is connected to the proper vacuum hose for the correct cylinder?

3. That each intake air sensor is connected to the proper wiring plug for the correct cylinder?

In the Documentation Forum's table of contents there is a line item for 'what to do if problems after doing BAK or VBAK' and I realize it's not what you did but the solution might be found in that help file. None of those inks are live due to security issues, you have to manually browse from the table of contents to the help file thread then scroll to desired help file.

Here is a direct link to the thread and post:
 

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Insure that the ports for the air pressure sensor & fuel pressure regulator do not have caps on them those ports need to be open to the atmosphere.
Do you have an LCV? If no then check the large hose on each throttle body each hose needs to be plugged individually or each port capped if someone put a jumper hose on & connected the throttle bodies together the vacuum signals to the MAP sensors will be scrambled & effect fueling. The fueling for this bike is basically 2 separate cylinders connect to a common crankshaft.
The small hoses from the throttle bodies connected to the MAP sensors can be switched with very minor or no effect on running it just swaps the CO readout in the onboard display CO1 is now CO2. The rear cylinder is #1.
If stock coils they are polarity sensitive the red / black wire to each coil is 12v pull the wire & look inside the tower for the + / - designation. Red / black to the + terminal, black / orange to the - (minus) terminal for the rear cylinder. Black / white to the - (minus) terminal for the front cylinder.
Dyna coils are not polarity sensitive.
Luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Insure that the ports for the air pressure sensor & fuel pressure regulator do not have caps on them those ports need to be open to the atmosphere.
Do you have an LCV? If no then check the large hose on each throttle body each hose needs to be plugged individually or each port capped if someone put a jumper hose on & connected the throttle bodies together the vacuum signals to the MAP sensors will be scrambled & effect fueling. The fueling for this bike is basically 2 separate cylinders connect to a common crankshaft.
The small hoses from the throttle bodies connected to the MAP sensors can be switched with very minor or no effect on running it just swaps the CO readout in the onboard display CO1 is now CO2. The rear cylinder is #1.
If stock coils they are polarity sensitive the red / black wire to each coil is 12v pull the wire & look inside the tower for the + / - designation. Red / black to the + terminal, black / orange to the - (minus) terminal for the rear cylinder. Black / white to the - (minus) terminal for the front cylinder.
Dyna coils are not polarity sensitive.
Luck
ok i checked the sensors i had the plugs swapped around both of the big hoses running to the lcv are hooked up the midddle outlet i have a hose and small filter on. my diagnostic screen or onboard display screen you cant read because it sat in the sun so long . the coils are marked i double checked the terminals to the coil and the other ends on the spark plug boots it is no longer slinging fuel but i do have small amounts of blowby coming from the exhaust oil/gas mix? the front cylinder exhaust gets hot when runnning now the rear cylinder(that was slinging gas frim exhaust) is blowing white clouds of smoke when you give it gas doesnt seem like the back cylinder is firing right checked the plugs they were dirty not fouled i cleaned them. it starts up everytime but wont idle by its self.
 

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Your typing punctuation make it hard to understand what you intend to communicate.

Did you verify the wires from the bike to the coils are connected where they need to be connected. Each coil has a separate wire plus they share a common wire. They must be right.

Did you verify the coil spark plug wires are connected to their required cylinder?

Did you verify each intake air sensor's vacuum hoses and wires are connected to their required cylinder intake?

I posted the link for you to download that help document earlier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ok so I'm back on the warrior this week.I'm going to make a few random post so I can post pictures.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ok so lets start from the top i just checked that i have fire on all four plugs. i also have fuel to the injectors. over the past couple days i took the reserve gas tank off cleaned the fuel pump and the excessive amount of chunky rust that was in the tank. all of that is put back together i installed a new cps in the clutch housing on the left side. i now have fire to both cylinders intermediately as it seems. sometimes it will start and want to idle most of the time it will die out. so ive put new ngk spark plugs new coil packs new cps or pickup coil. new injectors new stator new starter relay. so im curious about the map sensors and or atmospheric pressure sensor how do i know these plugs are correct .
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ok so I've got all those correct vacuum lines correct to the pressure sensors and the atmospheric and for nipples are open to air it will start up and idle fine but not every time I think the computer is spacing also when it's idling sometimes you can give it throttle and it doesn't pick up it instead dies the fuel from exhaust is only when it's firing it's intermittent I believe I replaced the pick up coil and stator think I'm going to go ahead and do the ivan's flash and see if it helps
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ok so I've got all those correct vacuum lines correct to the pressure sensors and the atmospheric and for nipples are open to air it will start up and idle fine but not every time I think the computer is spacing also when it's idling sometimes you can give it throttle and it doesn't pick up it instead dies the fuel from exhaust is only when it's firing it's intermittent I believe I replaced the pick up coil and stator think I'm going to go ahead and do the ivan's flash and see if it helps
Ok so when the bike starts up the headlight turns on? Other than that the head light is off all the time that seems weird to me ?
 

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Headlight being off before starting is normal.. our bikes were designed that way.. your running light should be on before you start though.. are they?
 
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