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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have incorporated my remote into the high beam switch using Redhorses' instructions which can be found at http://www.freewebs.com/roadstarwarrior/garage_opener.htm These are quite detailed so I'm just providing a synopsis of what I did.


A search for "remote" and these topics are also helpful for ideas...


http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/27585/390672.aspx#390672


http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/19384/279276.aspx#279276


Below is a wiring diagram I put together highlighting the integration into the high beam switch circuit.



Note: Terminal numbers are specific to MY relay--yours will vary.




[*]
Green (Bike)= Low Beam (not used)
[*]
Yellow(Bike) = High Beam circuit provides 12v power to remote and relay coil
[*]
Red = 12v power to remote and relay coil
[*]
Black = 12v power ground to chassis
[*]
Orange = Remote to relay switch which closes when relay coil is energized i.e. turning on high beam switch.[/list]







[*]
De-soldered battery terminals and soldered in Red (+) and Black (-) wires.
[*]
Soldered Orange wires to appropriate terminals on switch. Chose the top of the board as the PCB solder points were to tightly clustered for the size wire and my soldering skills. Since this is essentially an extension of the switch circuit to the relay--no distinction in color is necessary.
[*]
Encased the Orange wire solder points and switch with epoxy for extra durability.[/list]







[*]
Remote and relay hooked up[/list]







[*]
Close up of relay terminal diagram[/list]







[*]
Another close up of connections[/list]







[*]
Disconnect negative battery terminal[/list]













[*]
Remove head light bezel[/list]







[*]
Remove section of electrical tape to expose yellow 18 AWG wire.[/list]







[*]
Tapped Red relay wire into Yellow wire.[/list]







[*]
Tapped Red remote wire into Red relay wire.
[*]
Connected Black terminal leads from remote and relay to chassis bolt inside housing.[/list]







[*]
Reconnected battery terminal, started the bike, and tested high beam switch.[/list]


Awesome--it works!! '[MISSING IMAGE:"SH!T EATING GRIN"]'







[*]
Taped each T-Tap and re-taped headlight wiring.
[*]
Taped up remote three ways to Sunday and stuffed both remote and relay into rear of housing.[/list]








All buttoned up and ready to role!!!!
 

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Sean Donnchadha meechredjuagh (Infidel) said:
These are quite detailed so I'm just providing a synopsis of what I did.




A very fine piece of work!! and as is special to this forum, a very fine synopsis/pics of the mod!! - congratulations and thank you for the post [and i've beaten AZ to it!!] - now all we need is a vid of you cruising onto the driveway and the garage door 'magically' rising just in time for the parking sequence... oh yeah
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
RobRiguez said:
Awesome writeup. Do you still have functionality of your high beams?

Ah shucks thanks



Yes, the high beams work as before. This setup just taps into the bikes 12v power which in this case is turned on or off by the headlight switch. Others have opted for under the seat with dedicated switch etc...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
tomba said:
...now all we need is a vid of you cruising onto the driveway and the garage door 'magically' rising just in time for the parking sequence... oh yeah

lol yeah... before, I'd have to stop just perfect on the crest of the "hill" of my driveway, hold the clutch, and fumble for the remote. Now as I take the corner to my street I hit the high beam and the gate opens just in time for me to role though without waiting. I do wonder though with the heavy traffic on my street; what other motorists may think of me high beaming them--but oh well, they'll just have to get over it
 

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I made the mistake of telling my wife this could be done a few months ago and she's still expecting me to get it done on her bike.
 

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Great write up....I have seen Redhorse's article too, but this thread is motivating me to do my own.


I have 2 questions, where did you get that tiny of a garage remote? And, what do you think would happen to the remote if you had to ride on a highway for an hour or so w/ the high beams on?


Thanks!
 

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BigBlackWarrior said:
What do you think would happen to the remote if you had to ride on a highway for an hour or so w/ the high beams on?


I too was wondering about this?

I always run my high beam during daylight and low beam mostly after dark.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
AkitaDog said:
BigBlackWarrior said:
What do you think would happen to the remote if you had to ride on a highway for an hour or so w/ the high beams on?




I too was wondering about this?


I always run my high beam during daylight and low beam mostly after dark.




The beauty of it is; you are running off of the motorcycles' 12v power so no batteries to change in remote--Ever!



As far as the duty cycle of the remote? Well, that is ultimately up to the quality of manufacture. I wasn't too concerned about toying with a remote I'd already broken the case on.


Depending on your riding style you might find it preferable to tap into the low beam circuit, or even the turn signal (left or right)circuits. Say you make a left or right as you approach your door, then wire in accordingly. You could even tap into your neutral or kickstand switches assuming they are NO (Normally Open) switches although I'm not so sure of the practicality in any case. The horn switch is an option too (simultaneously open garage and signal wife to crack a beer open.
) But, without a multimeter to test--I'm fearful of the amp draw on that circuit.


Below are the potential taps into various switches:

[*]High Beam (Yellow) between 51 and 58/43
[*]Low Beam (Light Green) between 51 and 58
[*]Left Turn signal (Chocolate) between 53 and 54/57/41
[*]Right Turn Signal (Dark Green) between 53 and 55/56/42
[*]Horn (Pink) between 47 and 52[/list]



 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
BigBlackWarrior said:
Great write up....I have seen Redhorse's article too, but this thread is motivating me to do my own.


I have 2 questions, where did you get that tiny of a garage remote? And, what do you think would happen to the remote if you had to ride on a highway for an hour or so w/ the high beams on?


Thanks!

The remote is a key-chain style I got from Antrum's Lock & Key in Pasadena. They service the gates for several of the landlords' properties around here. I have half a dozen sitting in a box here besides other varieties we provide tenants.


See my previous post about options and life of the remote.
 

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This could offcourse be averry stupid question so please be gentle...


Here in Belgium all the battery operated gismo's for openingdoors or garage are equiped with 9Volt battery's, i assume this is the same in the State's?
Will feeding 12V not fry up the transmitter?
 

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Ours used to also years ago but now they mostly use button cell batteries. Now a lot of the remotes are smaller then the size of a 9v battery and serve as a keychain as well. The point is still valid though because many use 3 volt batteries.
 

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an idea to get around the problem of always being on when the high beams are on is to power it from the turn signals and then activate the relay (that closes the garage door button circuit) w/ the high beam. That way it is only activated when both occur.


Any thoughts?
 

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here is a link for a liftmaster (my door operater) it says it uses 12 volts...but really, i'm not sure that is really needed for me. Those batteries last a really long time, prolly longer than my headlight (well, maybe before I got the HID :p).


I may get this and give it a go, using the turn signal. And if the battery dies to quickly then add the power by high beam option. hmmmm...
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Stevo said:
This could offcourse be averry stupid question so please be gentle...


Here in Belgium all the battery operated gismo's for openingdoors or garage are equiped with 9Volt battery's, i assume this is the same in the State's?
Will feeding 12V not fry up the transmitter?

Not a stupid question at all.


Ironically, the larger remotes tend to run on 9v while the keychain remote I have runs on 12v.


Indeed, your assumption is a safe conclusion. However, I neglected to highlight this point in the writeup because it gets complicated if you want to use a device that uses a lessor voltage.


There are more expensive devices--read $30 voltage converters... Or, you can use one of the following methods (Disclaimer: there are numerous ways. Each of which has advantages and disadvantages. I picked two that are the easiest. Someone might chime in about diodes but flip just one in the series and you'll toast it or your device.)


Method 1:


Put a resistor in between 12v power source and device V in (+)


This requires knowing (using a multimeter) the Voltage "Potential" , and Ohmsacross the device (+ and - terminals). The device acts as R2


Then determining R1to provide the necessary VR1


__________________VT = 12 V _____________________
|...................R1......................................... R2........................|
+12V----| 30 ohm |--------+3V----------| 10 ohm |-------Ground
|...................................... |................................................... |
--------------VR1 = 9V-------------------------VR2 = 3V--------------


RT = R1 + R2
VR1 = VT R1 / RT
VR2 = VT R2 / RT



Method 2:


Put an adjustable voltage regulator which is less than $2 such as LM317 or LM7805or similar regulator along with the appropriate pair of resistors for the voltage desired. The datasheets for the specific regulator will have all the calculations for various applications. The simplest diagram will likely have capacitors in the mix--just forget about those in this application.
 

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Great writeup, I've had this on my list of "to-dos" for while. I bought the relay and connectors over a year ago and never got around to actually installing. I will be sure to use this thread for reference when I do. Thanks!!
 

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OEMPFFF... Donncada let me just say whitout anny shame that this is way over my knowledge level ;-)))


Lets just say that i will be on the lookout for a garage opener that uses 12 V and then just wire that in.
 

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That's great for you smart folks but I had to use a little farm-boy ingenuity!! I just took my door remote control unitapart, added a remote switch on about a 6 inch lead to activate it, put it back together again, 'waterproofed' it with that tool handle coat stuff and velcro-ed it inside my Star AIS scoop. I drilled a small hole at the bottom of the AIS scoop for the switch and now I can just be riding up to my driveway, hit the switch and ride right into my garage. I think it cost me a couple of hours and about $8.00.
 
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