My thoughts:
Every dynoshop/dealer has the best dyno ever made and the best trained tuner period.
Go in and talk to them. Get the guy who's going to tune your bike on the phone, not the service writer. If you can stop by and talk to the dyno operator all the better.
Your bike should have at least 2 identical overlaping curves to prove repeatable power measurement before any tuning takes place. That means at least 2, if not 3 or more, baseline pulls. So ask them how many baseline pulls they do. If the guy can't answer that...run, don't walk, away from that dealer.
They need to have the ability to hold your bike at agiven RPM. That means an Eddy current brake (or water brake). DJ 250 and 250i qualify. Older 100s, 150s and 200s qualify only if upgraded with the eddycurrent absorber. Superflow Cycledyns almost all came with eddy current brakes, but some are inertia only. Factory Pro EC997 and Dynostar 70s are also eddy current dynos. Land & Sea makes a waterbrake chassis dyno. If the dealer tries to bullS$%^e you about being able to map EFI on an inertia only dyno...leave.
They also need exhaust gas analysis. Wideband oxygen is OK and easy to use. 4 and 5 gas analyzers are great, but hard to use and tech to techs, so it's also possible to get someone who has some good equipment, but does not know how to use it.
Ask if they'll give you your beforeand after plots (yes they should!) and if they will show you what they had to change in your map and why. That should also be a yes.
A lot of people have dynos now and see it as a big money generator (it's not all that big unless you get a LOT of customers). If you can find a place with an enthusiast operating the dyno you'll be in good shape regardless of the brand of equipment. He should want to tell you everything you want to know and more. If not, look 'til you find him!
Good luck. A good dynotuner is great thing to have nearby.