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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Okay mechanics out there,

Need some info. :confused:
For the last month I have that dreaded 'tick tick' noise coming from the right side of the engine. :mad:
It is not continuously but often when cold and always in the lower RPM range.
Having researched this, my final conclusion is that one of my lifters is failing (starting to or completely failed already) :(

My questions here:
Do i need to get the engine out of the frame to replace them (have had a reply on an other thread that this is not necessary, but like to double confirm)
There are some replacement lifters that should be better than the stock ones. info needed
Some people complained that they failed within 5000 miles, mine have done 120.000 km. Am i lucky?
What extra parts do i need to get (gaskets etc) as the manual says some, while other people on this forum mentions that they can be re used?
Are there any special tricks or items, not noted in the manual, but that people have found by experience?
Is there a change that I have done damage, by just keeping on driving) to other bits, as I need to be prepared, as parts need to come from overseas, and this is my daily ride

Any info that somebody seems useful to add here?

Has somebody locally (Au) stripped their engine at all?

Thanks in advance

Dutch :cool:
 

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I know some guys will want to put all new gaskets and go with all new factory parts. The fact is you can make the repair with parts from your local parts store, and re-use all the gaskets. You can do the whole thing with an allen wrench, pliers and a screwdriver. All work is done in-frame.

Call your auto parts store and ask for "Sealed Power #HT2011" lifters, you need 4.
 

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like Bladerunr said, no need to take enging out of the frame. The rear cylinder is cylinder #1 and there are a couple of allen head bolts that are a pain to get at on the rear of cylinder 1's valve cover. Get them loose with an allen key and use an allen bit in between your fingers to unthread them out. Make sure you have a flash light and a flexible magne for when, no if... you drop the allen key and bit. Sometimes you have to fish them out. Its not a bad job to do, just make sure you take note of the push rod placement when you re-assemble and make sure you adjust your valves exactly as the manual says. If you don't have the manual...get it!
 

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Oh...sorry...I misinterpreted the thread title.. Good luck with the repairs, post some pics when ya start rippin in to her.
 

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Oh...sorry...I misinterpreted the thread title.. Good luck with the repairs, post some pics when ya start rippin in to her.

Me too:eek: ! I thought he was getting prepared for WWW12:p. I'm glad I don't bunk with him.

Tosh
 

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If you just got it back together, it may be the valves ticking. I know they are a PITA to set. The feeler is like a chewing gum wrapper.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks all for the reply/comments

And thanks for the offer Stew, appreciated ;)

Got some gaskets today and the 2011 lifters.
Heck they are bigger then I expected, but did some research and they appear to be good. Ended up with some Nason RHT2011 lifters. halve the price of the US price of new Yamaha ones, and do not even get me started how much cheaper then the local price... :mad: The name 'stealers' jumps to mind.

Now just waiting for the rocker gasket and then ... let the fun begin.

Look forward to this lobotomy

Dutch :cool:
 

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You may have a lifter going bad or you may have cams going bad.

After removing the lifters place a straight edge on the base of the lifter & hold it up to a light source. A lifter base is machined convex so that the lifter will rotate as it cycles. You should be able to see a bit of light on one side of the base under the straight edge. If so the cam lobe is good that the particular lifter lived with. It the lifter is flat or is worn concave you also need cams.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
You may have a lifter going bad or you may have cams going bad.

After removing the lifters place a straight edge on the base of the lifter & hold it up to a light source. A lifter base is machined convex so that the lifter will rotate as it cycles. You should be able to see a bit of light on one side of the base under the straight edge. If so the cam lobe is good that the particular lifter lived with. It the lifter is flat or is worn concave you also need cams.
Woody,

Thanks for this additional information, I will check this.
As the 'ticking' is not continuous I hope it is not a cam lobe. Having mentioned this though, the lifter rotates so there might be cam as well as this might have a flat spot (if this makes sense)

Dutch :cool:
 
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