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Heat problem with 108 kit need help

2.3K views 31 replies 15 participants last post by  Troyus  
#1 ·
I recently installed 108 kit and 42mm throttle bodies. Got lots of low end torque (120 lbs at 2500 rpm) but bike over heats when stuck in traffic for long periods (5 minutes waiting to get thru light). This causes detonation when bliping throttle at idle or on hot start. No detonation occurs at higher rpm only at startup. One solution would be to take some timing out at low rpm but I'm not sure if there is box available. Another posibility is going to hotter cam but this will kill low end torque. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks cbs.
 
#9 ·
I'm not so sure it's detonation you are feeling....detonation occurs under load not upon blipping the throttle usually..as I said in a previous post, try to replicate load on your bike by slightly "chugging it" in one gear harder than you "should" be in. If you are having detonation it shoud also be occuring in the upper rpms when you "get on it".
 
#12 ·
No engine light no problem at higher rpms. Engine cools quickly when moving. Moniterd tempature with electronic hand held gizmo. Problem occurs when external tempature near spark plug reaches 250 degrees (internal tempature unknown ?) If you come off idle slowly no problem. It's a nasty clunking sound when it happens. My dyno guy has tuned lots of bikes (nitrous turbos etc) and he says it detonation not pre-iginition.
 
#13 ·
Say Rob. What are some of these mysterious knocks on the Road Stars. From completely stock, after warm up at idle it has a muted kind of knock that to me sounds like the cam gears backlashing or something. When I take off very relaxed throttle in first it almost sounds like light pinging but maybe lifters or valve train? I think that I figured out it wasn't pinging as fuel octane makes no difference. Load makes no difference. As I said it is very muted noise, but noticable to me. KC.
 
#17 ·
cbwarrior,

Let me take a swing at this. Have the same phenomenon on my bike with Stage IV kit installed.
The detonation you are talking about sounds like throttle body back firing and not detonation within your cylinders.
The biggest problem is the hot air the collects under your tank, right where your air filters are and the relocated air temp sensor. The air sensor gets really hot - hotter than the air the engine sucks in - and the ecu will lean out your mixture more and more. Together with already hot intake air the fuel fumes ignite when the hit the hot intake valves.
Two potential fixes:
Relocate the air temp sensor to a place where it reads outside temp versus being heated by the engine heads. A good pace for that can be the right front of you tank where one of the pressure sensors used to be installed.
The second fix (just put mine together) is to install a fan inside of the right air-scoop (I have the original Stage IV scoop) and blow fresh air under the tank. That's also a great place to put the air temp sensor - simply drill the back of the scoop and install the sensor in there.

The problem is not so much the hot engine itself but the hot air bubble under you tank when sitting in traffic. As soon as you move you get fresh air underneath it and the temp sensor cools down fairly quick.
The oil coolers will not do anything for you in this situation. They help the engine when you race it hard at high rpms. Your problem will happen even if the oil is less than 180 degrees.

Hope this helps!

Oliver
 
#18 ·
Shucks, Franki' beat me to the punch an it sounds like he's got a real plausible answer, to boot.

I did write quote:"cbwarrior, I'm not nearly as knowledgeable as some others here, but I think I'd have to go with harley-jones on getting that thing out in the open and letting it break in. If my memory serves correctly (not a 100% certainty!), I think Rob of OE has stated that their stuff runs very tight tolerances. If your bike is fresh from the Recall Rebuild with the HC 108ci kit, chances are it's getting too hot from those tight tolerances (my SWAG!). [/emoticons/emotion-6.gif]

Bummer. I feel for ya. That's the same kit I've been gnawing over for the past few weeks. I'm sure it'll work out though. Whenever I make a mod, I always have something go a little awry. [/emoticons/emotion-2.gif]
 
#21 ·
guys, my dealer talked me out of the big bore kit with high compression pistons. He said flat out i'd have overheating and driveability problems (especially here in south texas)....i hope he's not right. I'm just going to put it back stock after all, and wait and see what happens with some of the others who are instaling hc standard bore and hc overbore pistons.
 
#22 ·
Your dealer simply did not want to get involved with it. The problem described in this thread has nothing todo with Big Bore overheating. The real problem is any kind of BAK setup when sitting in traffic. A stock bike with a BAK (no matter what) will have the same issues. Its the exposed air temp sensor and the intakes that suck in hotter air that are your problem and not displacement or HC.
 
#23 ·
Frankenstine, temperature sensor makes sense. I use OE BAK which mounts temperature sensor at front top under gas tank. Bike was on dyno for 4 hours off and on trying different things (cooler plugs, enriched map at idle, etc.) Dyno has 2 fans and both had to be turned off while bike was idleing to reporduce problem. Do you have a model number of fan you mounted in s* scoup?