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Premium Member
2008 XV1700PC Warrior
Joined
152 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I put on a Cobra Swept Exhaust. Followed the instructions to the Tee (being that you tighten the flange bolts after everything else). I put brand new Yamaha OEM gaskets on (after getting the old gaskets out) and only hand tightened the flanges, and then a little bit after (less than 1/4 of a turn).

Started the bike up and had a HUGE exhaust leak from the REAR only. But both were tighten the EXACT same way... I thought maybe it needed more tightening... Did a turn and a half MAYBE on each of the two flange bolts (stopped when I saw the flange begin to not be straight anymore). What the **** am I missing? Still leaking
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Looks like it's coming from the back?? Wtf... 馃槬
 

Premium Member
'05 Midnight
Joined
2,312 Posts
Might have a crack in the back extension. I know it'll be a pain but you may have to remove the exhaust and take a closer look at it. Also, be aware that it may be caused by flexing of the attachment flange with the exhaust on it. After removing the exhaust, if there is a crack, it might close up. Use a cresent wrench to apply gentle torque to the attachment flange to gently flex it down and see if a crack opens up. Gentle, gentle, gentle. Use a flashlight to shine from the inside out or whatever you can to see if you can spot a fracture.
 

Premium Member
2008 XV1700PC Warrior
Joined
152 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Might have a crack in the back extension. I know it'll be a pain but you may have to remove the exhaust and take a closer look at it. Also, be aware that it may be caused by flexing of the attachment flange with the exhaust on it. After removing the exhaust, if there is a crack, it might close up. Use a cresent wrench to apply gentle torque to the attachment flange to gently flex it down and see if a crack opens up. Gentle, gentle, gentle. Use a flashlight to shine from the inside out or whatever you can to see if you can spot a fracture.
That's the thing though, I only hand tightened both of them... There was no way it was overdone... but yes, I agree with you.. a crack in the rear makes sense...
 

Premium Member
'05 Midnight
Joined
2,312 Posts
Your tightening might not have done it. Just the removal and replacement may have been enough.

There's a tale of the Roman aqueducts where someone thought, "Hey, these things have been getting used for a couple thousand of years without maintenance. Maybe we should empty them and do some maintenance." So they stopped the water flowing and the aqueducts dried up and were inspected and what do you know, they didn't need any maintenance. They turned the water back on and they've leaked ever since.

It wasn't anything they did that caused them to leak, but by messing with something that wasn't leaking, an unintended consequence of leaks occurred.
 

Administrator
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5,931 Posts
Use copper gasket seal when you remove and put them back on. Also tighten the screws the same amount of turns each so the flange doesn't kink to one side more than the other. The copper gasket stuff works good.
 

Premium Member
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8,980 Posts
@HolyCrapItsThisGuy ... IMHO what you are experiencing is "A" Typical of this designed & fabricated exhaust.

I suggest you remove and wipe clean the cylinder head exhaust ports and check the new matting parts for flatness on the face end of the head pipe fabrication. I use an ultra high temp moly grease sparingly in the exhaust port that holds the gasket from falling out while doing the task.

Having an extra set of hands is very helpful for this installation though it's not required.
When installing my V&H Big Shots I always leave the Exhaust Hanger Bracket quite loose which aids in squaring up the front and rear head pipes to the exhaust ports.
I also use a 1/4" drive ratchet to tighten both the 2-bolt flange brackets so that I don't bend them ;)
 

Registered
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8,339 Posts
Me thinks the instructions are bass akward the head pipes always get tightened first.
New pipes will have some "spring / memory" still in them until they heat cycle a few times.
Luck
 

Registered
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1,090 Posts
I agree with Alan and Woody.
I had trouble getting my Samson's to tighten up properly and ended up breaking an exhaust stud in the rear jug. After fixing the stud I carefully remounted everything focusing on the flange alignment first and then seeing where the mounting bracket near the end of exhaust lines up and found the mounting bracket needed to be modified slightly to allow the flanges to line up in the same plane.
 

Premium Member
2006 Warrior
Joined
545 Posts
Let us know what the outcome is or if you find a crack .
 

Premium Member
2008 XV1700PC Warrior
Joined
152 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Loosened all the mounting hardware (including heat shields and the clamp holding the muffler to the header pipe) so that I could better rotate the header pipe if needed and manipulate the header position to get the mating surfaces between the header pipe and gasket flat. It is better than it was, but not by that much. Now it seems the front one is leaking a little too (didn't notice it before, likely because the rear was so bad). I can blatantly hear the engine and the popping that occurs with an exhaust leak from the front. It's faint, but there. All flange bolts were hand tightened, and then tightened with a 1/4" drive ratchet to where I need to apply very small pressure to tighten it. (Should I tighten them more?) Rear is not leaking like it was, but still see that smoke (just about 20% of what it was) coming from the rear header. Smoke isn't visible on the front.
I took exhaust off, used a bright flashlight to the top of the extension, and I did not find any cracks along the rear extension.

I'm at this point where I'm baffled no pun intented

After work today, I'll tighten them half a turn more, then try again. If it's still leaking, I was thinking I try swapping my old exhaust back on to see if it's genuinely the new exhaust causing a problem somewhere... idk. Y'all lemme know thoughts. I was supposed to leave for a 600 mile trip tomorrow afternoon
 

Premium Member
2008 XV1700PC Warrior
Joined
152 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Loosened all the mounting hardware (including heat shields and the clamp holding the muffler to the header pipe) so that I could better rotate the header pipe if needed and manipulate the header position to get the mating surfaces between the header pipe and gasket flat. It is better than it was, but not by that much. Now it seems the front one is leaking a little too (didn't notice it before, likely because the rear was so bad). I can blatantly hear the engine and the popping that occurs with an exhaust leak from the front. It's faint, but there. All flange bolts were hand tightened, and then tightened with a 1/4" drive ratchet to where I need to apply very small pressure to tighten it. (Should I tighten them more?) Rear is not leaking like it was, but still see that smoke (just about 20% of what it was) coming from the rear header. Smoke isn't visible on the front.
I took exhaust off, used a bright flashlight to the top of the extension, and I did not find any cracks along the rear extension.

I'm at this point where I'm baffled no pun intented

After work today, I'll tighten them half a turn more, then try again. If it's still leaking, I was thinking I try swapping my old exhaust back on to see if it's genuinely the new exhaust causing a problem somewhere... idk. Y'all lemme know thoughts. I was supposed to leave for a 600 mile trip tomorrow afternoon
I should note; from where the rear header pipe WAS, I was able to almost center the pipe to the gasket. As to whether it is flush or not is the question. Seeing as I notice that now the front is leaking slightly... maybe I moved the entire assembly too much down and to the right. Idk. Everything looks centered on the headers front and rear. I know the oem gasket took to the front header flush the first time, because it came out with the exhaust when I removed it (against the header pipe)
 

Premium Member
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I know this is tricky sometimes. You need to try to do everything equally. Snug up the front. Then snug up the rear. It also helps to have an extra pair of hands to keep everything level, straight or aligned. The snug them up a little more going back and forth. I usually go 1/2 a turn after cause they do not require too much force according to the manual something like 17 and 15 ft/lbs or something like that.
 

Super Moderator
Joined
7,468 Posts
Swap out for the old exhaust

AND IF NO LEAKS WITH THE OLD SET-UP
GO ON UR TRIP

AND WHEN U GET BACK

THAN FIGURE OUT ISSUE WITH THE NEW PIPES.....

I USUALLY DONT DO ANY MAJOR SWAPS
ON THE BIKE IF IM GOING ON A LONG RIDE

JUST THE USUAL MAINTENANCE STUFF..



Sent from my SM-A125U1 using Tapatalk
 

Administrator
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As Heftysmurf said, torque the bolts down to the recommended torque. If that don't do it, i would question the exhaust gaskets.
 

Premium Member
2008 XV1700PC Warrior
Joined
152 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I had to work 12 hr shifts and was unable to swap it before I left. It worked out where a buddy let me use his motorcycle to see my mother over the weekend.
now that I'm back, sometime in the next 72 hrs I will swap the new exhaust with the old set and go from there regarding figuring out the issue. Already have new gaskets on the way (when I swapped to the Cobra, I put in brand new Yamaha OEM Gaskets). We shall see. I'll keep y'all updated with status once old exhaust is put on. We can start from there.

Greatly appreciate this forum and the members helping me with this 馃檶
 

[Retired Admin-SuperMod]
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It really seems to make sense to me to inspect the header flanges for flatness as was suggested earlier. Plus make darn certain the old gaskets were removed, and no cracks in the ports. Plus the fasteners and mating threads need to be golden.

As for the pictured smoke, was there any motor oil present, possibly dripping from the valve cover or its surrounds? Or was grease used to tack the new gaskets in place for assembly?

Other than that, as was also mentioned by others, always hang the headers first and draw bolts hand tight, then hang the muffler etc and bracket finger tight. Then torque headers. Then incrementally torque muffler and hanger as an assembly. This let's the header flanges draw flush with the exhaust ports.

Used exhausts very often were incorrectly installed by prior owners, and bent out. They can usually be bent back. The trick is to figure out what is bent out. Then mess with it.
 

Premium Member
2008 XV1700PC Warrior
Joined
152 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Got sick when I got back home, but I'm all good now. I am going to hope to work on this project Sunday. Check header flanges for flatness as well as ensure the headers are lined up and bolted on hand tight evenly and go from there. I will update as I work on it.

Thanks everyone for the help
 

Premium Member
2008 XV1700PC Warrior
Joined
152 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Disassembled and took off the Cobra Exhaust
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While I had the New Cobra Exhaust off, I figured I'd quick bolt on the old exhaust to see if it does the same thing, since it didn't leak with this exhaust on the bike before I took it off for the Eibach Spring Swap
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I used a 1/4" Drive ratchet as recommended by many people and tightened the front header first, a half turn at a time per bolt, to ensure even tightening across the surface of the flange to the gasket. Did this until the 1/4" ratchet couldn't move anymore without beginning to put more than four fingers worth of pressure down on the ratchet (my idea of 'hand tight'). Did the same for the rear header.
Now, both are leaking, but a consistent 25% of how bad it was before on the rear cylinder when I had the Cobras on.
My thoughts?; Not tight enough... Why else would both headers be leaking the exact same consistency when before they didn't leak before taking them off? Only difference is New OEM gaskets were put in and the exhaust flange bolts/nuts weren't torqued down by a gorilla lol (this exhaust had bent flanges, and was unable to bend them back). Should I go tighter than just my thumb and four fingers of pressure with the 1/4" Drive Ratchet?
(for example, fully grasping it and doing it until hand tight, not "four finger" tight?)
Do I risk damaging something if I do? Figured I'd update and ask here first before I mess something up, worse.
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Again, front header was put on first, put on evenly, and tightened evenly with 1/4" Drive Ratchet with four fingers of pressure down on the ratchet. Then rear header the same.
Thanks for input

Bike did the have this problem upon purchasing in February. Only after I took THIS EXACT exhaust off
 
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