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Discussion Starter #1
Hey every one I am back . I tryed to start my bike sunday and took a long time to start my battery gave out before the bike started . So I put a charger on it slow charge and all I get now is a click sound from my relay and a click sometimes from the starter . Help plz
I have looked to see if all my battery connections are tight and they are so what do yall think
 

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Did you do/have work done on the bike prior to having the starting issue ?
Did you let the battery get a good charge on it before trying to start the bike ?
How old is the battery ???
If it's too old it may not even take a charge.
 

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Hate to say it, but sounds like a bad/weak battery. If you are able to, jump start the bike with your car. Just do it with the car off. If it starts, you know your battery is the culprate
 

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you say it took 3 hrs to charge up. did you just leave it on the tender for three hours or does the tender say it's charged. i ask because most tenders will not really charge a battery. so was it a tender or a charger. if you ran the battery dead, and now it just says "click", the battery is most likely still dead.
 

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i re-read it. sounds like you kept it on a tender, which obviously did not take, but then charged it on a charger. i still think the battery is dead/bad. if you have one of those 2/12/50 chargers, just put it on 12 for a short while and try to start while it's still connected.
 

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That's not COD. That's a battery not giving enough juice to the starter, which is why it is clicking.

I read your post to say you didn't have it on a tender, you tried to start it and killed your battery, so you put it on a tender, and it still won't start after you left it on for 3 hours.

Since you killed the battery, it won't ever hold a charge properly after this. It might hold for awhile, but in a matter of months it will die on you. They just don't come back all the way after you kill them. Just to ease your mind about the COD (which this isn't), jump start it with a car/truck. DO NOT have the car or truck running, or it may fry your electronics. Let it sit hooked up for a minute or two, then try to start it. It should start. This will then confirm your battery isn't charged, or holding a charge.

Since you bought it 8 months ago, it's still under warranty. Take it back. It's not worth hassling with at this point, just get another one. The warranty may be pro-rated, so you may have to pay a few bucks, but it's worth it to start with a fresh battery.

One final question -do you have a proper battery tender, or is it a battery charger? You should leave your bike on a proper battery tender when you're not riding.

Good luck.
 

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Hi Joey,

I don't know if you have click-of-death or not, but from your Profile Album pics you seem to have the stock front running lights / signals still installed, and those stock front running lights generally mean you are not in danger of having COD assuming they remain incandescent bulbs as stock.

May I ask if this http://www.rswarrior.com/forums/13-technical-discussion/183231-hard-starting-agen.html problem was resolved and exactly how it was resolved?

Also, before that trouble started last year, when you first started your bike cold, did the bike start easily (motor turning over just 2 or 3 starter-cranks) and did it cold-idle at about 1100rpm for a few seconds and then reduce idle to about 900rpm?

And what about AFTER you fixed that hard starting problem last year, once fixed did it cold-start easily and idle 1100rpm-ish and in a few seconds reduce to about 900rpm or so?

Now jumping to this new trouble, how long has it been doing this? I know you mentioned Sunday but was it getting troublesome before that, maybe for a few days or weeks? Or maybe has it been taking longer to start ever since the trouble last year was fixed?

The reason I ask is there's a possibility your idle is set too low and/or your LCV has failed in the 'closed' position so extra fuel is being added during cold-starts but no extra air to match. Or maybe the air filters are really dirty. Either way it makes it crank a bit longer when cold and creates a too-rich fuel ratio, and all that draws more battery power so if you don't ride it awhile the battery doesn't get time to fully recharge and you can get some smoke. There's also a possibility your Compression Release is not functioning properly during cranking and that also draws extra juice off the battery.

If the bike isn't 'set-up' properly then its like a bad tune and everything you do to tune it misses the mark because the set-up isn't right in the first place. A new battery will fail in a very short time when its being over-taxed and doesn't have adequate time to recharge itself while riding.

I'd like to suggest that you re-establish the 'baseline' by running down a generic set-up list. You can brainstorm extra items to add to the list, and you can also remove itenms from the list that don't pertain to your bike. You have total control. If this were me I'd add the LCV and Decompression system to the list just in case. Here's a generic Warrior set-up checklist to get you started, I'm thinking this will either fix or highlight the trouble (see the first attached pdf file here): http://www.rswarrior.com/forums/92-documentation/180245-warrior-maintenance-repair-documents.html#post2305707

IMO this might be better than burning-thru another battery although who knows maybe your recently-purchaed battery is toasted already. Either way its gonna be a good idea to look for the root cause.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hey AZ yeah I have not had time to look it over the last 3mo but ridding season is comin up and need to get time to look at it I need to make a new thread and list everything that I find and everything that I get fixed
 

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Hey every one I am back . I tryed to start my bike sunday and took a long time to start my battery gave out before the bike started . So I put a charger on it slow charge and all I get now is a click sound from my relay and a click sometimes from the starter . Help plz
I have looked to see if all my battery connections are tight and they are so what do yall think
THIS IS WHAT I HAD!sorry about caps....but investigate your....umm....what is the **** thing called....

starter relay. Part # 5PX-81950-00

when i ordered this part it was dang near 50 bucks but as soon as it was installed the bike started like it was brand spanking new. If you know anyone in the area with a warrior maybe you could persuade them to let you plug in their relay and if your bike starts thats your problem.

Let us know if this is your issue. and best of luck man.
 

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that very possibly could be it, or it could have been that when you changed the relay, the dis-connect/re-connect action solved the problem. it's already been said but check the connections at both ends of both cables and the starter. loosen and tighten. then if it's the relay you'll know for sure. we still don't know if he charged it on a charger or tried to jump start it. or if the battery is just plain bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
If I put a battery charger on it all day would that hurt any thing as long as it at a 12v 2amp charg . Thats as slow as I have to charg it would this help I go to work at 8-5 todat and can see whin I get home if it starts
 

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If I put a battery charger on it all day would that hurt any thing as long as it at a 12v 2amp charg . Thats as slow as I have to charg it would this help I go to work at 8-5 todat and can see whin I get home if it starts
That should be fine Joey.
Our batteries are 14Ah's, which means that the 2 amp charger you have on will charge your battery at a rate of 2 amps per hour which will take a full 7 hours to charge a near flat battery. The trickle chargers take a lot longer and as others have said, the tenders can be a hit or a miss for fully charging.
I would also check the connection up front at your starter motor. Even a fully charged battery can have enough energy to jump the connection to make you not look there.

Good luck,

Gav.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thank you I put it on just now and tryed to see if the engine start charg would try and at lest let it try to turn over the engine and nope did not so I put it on the 12v 2amp charg now and will see when I get home from work
 

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jumping it with the car is a bad idea. i did that on my previous bike and it just fried the **** out of the regulator rectifier. melted the wires and the plug and it took the stator out with it. it was a bad messy deal. theres way to many amps in a car battery to do that with it.

your best bet would be to do it with a buddys bike or something
 
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