[sadster]

Anyone have any tips on getting these off? I'm taking my front wheel apart in preparation for chroming, however, unlike the rear rotor, I'm unable to loosen the 6mm screws. I'm afraid I've already started to slightly round out the allenhead screws I've put so much torque on them. I'm even using an allen socket and 3/8" breaker bar rather than a normal allen wrench.


Should I try heat? I was afraid of damaging the black coating on the rotor, or worse, warping it? How has anyone else done this?

 

[gremlin]

i wouldn't go with heat, have a buddy hold the rim still or find a way to lock it down. may even try sitting/standing on it if ya have to. use slow steady pressure and see if that will start em moving. an impact will work but i suggest using a battery powered impact gun, the air guns just throw way too much torque unless you have a regulator to turn it down. yamaha uses some killer loctite to hold the little rascals in place.

 

[GottaHaveOne]

Iused a propane torch on mine, heating the wheel on the opposite side of the rotor from the head of the bolts. worked like a charm.

 

[sadster]

Iused a propane torch on mine, heating the wheel on the opposite side of the rotor from the head of the bolts. worked like a charm.

Ok, will do...i was about to try that today, but my bottle was empty. I'll get another and try that tomorrow, and...

an impact will work but i suggest using a battery powered impact gun,

I will try this also...although Iwill have to use your advice about the regulator and the air impact.


Thanks Very Much to you both!!!!

 

[southboundchicken]

sometimes the tip of a soldier gun will be enough heat to loosen them or a pencil point torch but your pretty much gonna need to heat them up if they are stripping out on you, new ones are pretty cheap..... been there , done that

 

[whitefeather]

using a 16 oz ball peen hammer and give it a blow, not to hard, lock tight is tough, just warm up the bolt not too much will soften the bolt, hope this helps, i would not use a impact ot would break the bolt

 

[arizonawarrior]

You are not alone!

: http://rswarrior.com/forums/t/26544.aspx
: http://rswarrior.com/forums/t/15237.aspx

 

[vladens]

2 words - Impact driver!





That always worked for me... Impact driver (not impactgun)!

 

[Ranger1]

Absolutely use heat to loosen the lock-tite on the bolts...Ive ruined a rim by not. The bolts are too soft too not do that you will strip the heads very easily!!!!!

 

[Camel]

Use heat and just plan on getting new bolts.

 

[Pep]

I've removed mine three times since I've owned the bike and I always order new bolts.

 

[sadster]

ok, heat was partially successful...i got 3 of 'em out on the one side, but two are left with stripped heads....NOW WHAT?! Anyone have any suggestions? I can try to drill them out, but I am really afraid of trashing my rims. Based on on how tight they are, I just don't think an easy out will help...

 

[bpk0816]

At this point I would still use heat and an easy-out. I have used a heat gun and a hair dryer before. The hair dryer works good because you really don't have to worry about anything getting to hot. Make sure the bolt is heated for a fair amount of time to give the lock-tite a chance to soften and use an easy-out that fits snuggly in the stripped allen head. This should be a fairly large sized easy-out and should get plenty of grip on the bolt. If the lock-tite is not soft, and it is the stock lock-tite, it does have the strength to pull out your aluminum threads, been there, so be careful. Worst case you have to drill and tap. Good luck!

 

[sadster]

At this point I would still use heat and an easy-out. I have used a heat gun and a hair dryer before. The hair dryer works good because you really don't have to worry about anything getting to hot. Make sure the bolt is heated for a fair amount of time to give the lock-tite a chance to soften and use an easy-out that fits snuggly in the stripped allen head. This should be a fairly large sized easy-out and should get plenty of grip on the bolt. If the lock-tite is not soft, and it is the stock lock-tite, it does have the strength to pull out your aluminum threads, been there, so be careful. Worst case you have to drill and tap. Good luck!

Ok, I'll give it a try...I admit it, I'm a little scared! Just to be sure...heat real good....then give it time to cool and let the metal contract right? Or are you trying to remove it while still hot?

 

[sadster]

UPDATE:


Got the stuck fasteners out. two of them broke off, the rest turned out using advice from you guys - specifically, impact driver and heat. The two that were stuck weren't that bad either. One broke off flush with the wheel, and one flush with the top of the rotor. The latter, I simply used vice grips to turn out, the other I drilled out, and removed using an easy-out.


Jim (A.K.A Crown) has started on my 260 kit. I went with a 9" rim and he's doing the hidden caliper mod. Everything is getting powder coated black. I took my tins (including left and right side covers) to a local custom bike shop. I like the 2008 candy apple red color, so I'm staying with that.I'mgoingwitha black & white checkered flag to the tank and fenders. I haven't decided what I'm doing with the rear fender yet, keep it as is, chop it, or go with something completely new. I have a couple weeks to decide before he starts painting.