When I lowered mine, I simply loosened all the bolts and turn the fork tubes slightly to get them to drop down and measure to make sure both are dropped down the same amount. I've raised and lowered them several times depending on what I want and have had no problems for the last 14,000 miles.

 

Raise the bike on a lift or hang it from the neck with a cherry picker or chain fall, you want the front tire just touching the ground. Loosen the pinch bolts on the trees & tap a small screw driver or chisel in each slot to releive the clamping pressure. Slowly lower the bike untill each fork is above the top tree 1 inch. Make them equal. Pull the screwdrivers out & tighten the clamp screws evenly.

Run the spring preload adjusters down untill they are flush with the top nut. If you do not do this you will probably ding the fender on the bracket for the brake line. That is if you are still running the stock brake lines.

Rotating the top tube will not effect alignment or cause the wheel to be off center unless one of the fork tubes is bent.

FYI, lowering the front (with the rear at stock height) will let the bike turn in easier. It will eliminate some of the "it wants to stand up in the corner" "the front end is heavy in the corner" comments or in racers terms "push", "plow", or "under steer". You will still need to trail brake & drive it with the rear wheel when its laid over. Just a Warrior trait.

 

Churchkey, Can you explain what it is to "trail brake". I guess when you say drive it with the rear wheel you mean to accelerate in the corner slightly? Paul

 

I've got mine lowered about 1 1/4 and that's about all she'll stand. I still want the frame to be lower so I'm currently trying to find someone who will rake the front, not just in the trees. Had a guy in mind but he doesn't want to mess with the aluminum frame plus with the double tubes under the tank that presents another problem. This frame basically requires a special jig. I may just lower the forks internally and run without a front fender. As far as the normal lowering in the tree. All I do is put blocks under the rear of the frame to hold it square. Put a jack under the cross member right below the rectifier up front and jack it up until the tire is just off the ground. loosen the tree bolts, and lower it down. measure the amount of fork going through and tighten back down. I've raised and lowered several times and no problems. I would definitely tighten the preload all the way because you will ding the front fender with the brake line bolt. Later

Dave

 

quote:Originally posted by CVWARRIOR

Churchkey, Can you explain what it is to "trail brake". I guess when you say drive it with the rear wheel you mean to accelerate in the corner slightly? Paul


DISCLAIMER: Ride at your own skill level, the way I do something does not mean its the correct or safe way.

Trail braking is using the rear brake. I use it to adjust corner radius. More rear brake will tighten up the turn radius. A smooth transition from rear brake to power ( start appling power as you release the rear brake) just as you reach the apex of the turn will net a smooth fast corner. IMHO, Use of the front brake while cornering will aggravite understeer. I get off the front brake the moment I tip in.

 

Thanks guys!!! I've had the PCS kit but never lowered the front. I can always rely on RS Warrior. Another quick mod to do this weekend.

 

Ok guys, I have had the front lowered and preload increased to two lines showing for 6 months and everything has been great. Until the other day I noticed a very slight ding in the fender. I only weigh 145lb and my wife is 105lb, so I didn't think it was necessary to crank down the preload too much. I think we must of hit one good bump.

Anyway, what is the best brake line set up for this? A two line system would eliminate the T and give me more clearance. Correct?
Also, since the bike is lowered what length lines would I need?

Thanks,
Sean