u may have to make spacers - the pulley side will stick out more then the brake side

 

quote:Originally posted by slothy

u may have to make spacers - the pulley side will stick out more then the brake side


Spacers for what - the wheel to shift it right, or the fender to shift it left? I thought about simply using washer on the fender stay bolts at the frame to shift the left side mount out slightly - but I can't really move the right side fender stay IN because it mounts tight to the frame.

 

for the wheel

measure the center of the frame and measure the center of the tire - how far are those 2 off - 1" is alot !!

 

But the rear wheel can't be moved to the right any further because of the spacing at the arm...this is not good.

 

so the tire rubs or the spacer is preventing it to be moved over ?

 

how about some pics sammy? sounds a little funny. you should have spacers on both sides . making one shorter and the other longer will get it in the right position . you can buy wheel spacers from custom chrome ect they come in many widths.

 

The wheels HAVE the stock spacers, I am using the stock wheel with stock hub that has been widened. Problem is, I believe the wheel was widened MORE on the left - not the right. So the center line of the wheel is now offset to the left about 1" or so. I can't change the spacers for the wheel because there is only 1/4" clearance between the wheel and the right side of the swing arm. There is no where to move it.

Can get pictures - I ran over my digital camera yesterday with the truck.

 

umm i believe they dont touch the hub, just the ouside of the rim.

 

quote:Originally posted by slothy

umm i believe they dont touch the hub, just the ouside of the rim.


I KNOW...I was just saying that so you guys would know what setup I had. LOL

 

well if the camera is broke, draw us a picture with some crayons lol - kidding

 

so does the pulley line up correctly ?

 

Call Shawn. He'll know.

 

You shouldn't be having this problem. This is a bolt up modification and to be off so far, there has to be a reason. Everything should be stock as far as spacers, so that shouldn't be a problem. I wish you didn't run over the camera so we can take a look see.

 

quote:Originally posted by warstar

You shouldn't be having this problem. This is a bolt up modification and to be off so far, there has to be a reason. Everything should be stock as far as spacers, so that shouldn't be a problem. I wish you didn't run over the camera so we can take a look see.



I know man, camera's just aren't made the way they used to be...remember the old 35lb cameras you could hit with a tank?? these new, lighter, simpler, easy to carry things just can't take a 7,000lb truck anymore.

Guys, I know it's a bolt up - and I know I have the 'bolts' where they are supposed to be. There isn't anything with the installation of the actual unit itself. If something was off, the brake caliper bracket wouldn't mount correctly because the whole wouldn't line up. The pulley lines up fine and runs to the front pulley - although I did see this morning that it is running slightly to the right side of the front pulley....but physics is telling me that the belt run is opposite of the wheel adjustment - if I take the right side axle spacer and move it FORWARD - effectively turning the wheel slightly to the left and clearing up the 'hit the fender' issue on the left rear - the effect will be opposite on the pulley and the belt will run further to the right.

I may be off on that...it was late. I will work on it again this morning. But even if I clear the left side of the fender - it will be by no more than 1/8", and I have well over 1/4" on the right side. I am surprised by how much this is offset to one side now that the stock wheel was widened.

 

IMO...first things first. Slothy is correct in saying that you need to determine the centerline of the bike before doing anything else. Locate where the centerline of the wheel should be. Check this against your fender being centered. With those two lines established now measure the wheel rim extensions by finding the wheel center and measuring out to the rim edges. At this point disregard the mounting points for the rotor and pulley, you are establishing wheel center and distance from center to edge on each rim half. If everything looks lined up so far go to the swing arm. Check your distance between the axle adjusters (same as stock) and for trueness of the arm. If everything looks good so far the assembly process should be straight forward using the factory bearings, spacers and axle as originally located. Hope this helps. Good luck!
Rich B.

 

If the pully lines up the wheel is centered where it's supposed to be.
You say that you have a 1/4" on one side and an 1/8" on the other. That's only an1/8" difference. That may be as good as it gets. You could try spacing the fender stays out a bit where they mount to the frame but I know what they look like and it won't be an easy job.

 

ya 1/8" is a bit diff then the 1" u mentioned

 

Sorry...that was a typo...the WHEEL CENTERLINE appears to be about 3/4"-1" shifted to the left. Under the fender, with some adjustments to the axle adjusters, there is over 1/4" - 1/2" clearance on the right, and 1/8"-no clearance on the left - because the fender goes from 13" wide at the curve to 12.25" at the rear, the fender actually 'closes in' on the wheel the further you move back, so the clearance up front is minimal, and non-existent in the back....that is why the wheel can be shifted WAY off center, and you still have a minimal clearance difference at different points on the tire.

Sam at Broward is the best - he actually called me from Daytona (raining miserably by the way) at 7:30am this morning to walk me through the bike...and mid-way through the conversation, there was a "what did you say?". I am using the stock fender and STOCK struts, which are designed to line up the rear fender over the STOCK tire. When you widen the rear tire, you widen the right side minimally, while the left side gets the majority of the added material (unless I am mistaken, but I can see some small pitting through the chrome where the welds were, so this gives me the weld width). Again, the Physics kick in, the wider you make the left side, the more the centerline will move to the left by a factor of 1/2. Widen the wheel 2", the center line moves 1" in that direction since the centerline of the tire is 1/2 the total width and you added 2" to one side.

The result is that my wheel and arm are where they are supposed to be, but my fender didn't get shifted. These kits normally take a new fender with new struts to recenter the fender over the wheel. With the 280 kits, this isn't an issue because the arm actually goes into a jig and you recenter the wheel by moving the actually arms on the swing arm.

So I will move it with spacers and washers, and worry about it later. It still looks bitchin' and you really can't tell unless you are staring down the rear end of the bike and mentally lining everything up.

 

glasd ya got it fiqured out - i had to space out my left stay about 1/4" (250 setup)



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Paul, I'll call you after I get out of work. For now you can shim in the right fender brackets at the fender itself, on the left you'll shim the bracket from the frame out.
The wheels are widened equally on each side, so there should be no offset whatsoever.

 

Sweet sounds like fun when I get my 250 "bolted" on. Hope the Barons swingarm gives me no headaches. Looks like no drinking during this project.

Glad you got it figured out Sammy so you can make your deadline.

 

Now we just need the finished pics....

 

Yes, the wheel rim should be widened the same amount on both sides. No reason to widen one side more than the other since this will throw the balance of the bike off and actually change the centerline of your rear wheel relative to the frame. Pits in your welds on the finished side of the rim indicate poor quality. The weld bead should have been drawn high enough to support the finishing process to take place afterward with no voids. Sometimes the plater can compensate for this problem by plating a heavier flash of copper/nickle on your wheel, then smoothing out, if necessary with buffing, prior to the chrome plating. Nonetheless, you should easily be able to determine the weld locations looking at the inside of the wheel. Good luck.
Rich B.

 

It isn't the weld locations, I checked that - wheel measures EXACTLY the same on both sides. Struts are lined up - I don't THINK it's the fender being warped or the holes for the mount on the fender being off because it lines up perfectly with the center line of the bike. So I am back to the wheel. Spacing seems fine. I am going to shim the fender for now, and get the bike to Daytona and let the 'watchful eyes' of the Warrior crew look at it. Also, give me about an hour and I will have some pictures up. I ran over my digital camera with the truck, and just went and got another one. ****>

 

I have measured everything I can measure, and although my eyes tell me it's more, the wheel runs square to the frame and is set 1/4" to the left - doesn't seem like a lot, but it LOOKS like MUCH more. I am going to shim it out tonight taking pictures before and after.