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Premium Member
4,742 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'm not a mechanic, so nothing can beat a dyno run, so procede with caution. I care more about the ride, than I do about #'s

I gotta give credit, where its due. I have to thank Caledonian Warrior for the Trim Value tip in my posting.

Take a look at this posting, 1st.

This is what I ended up doing.

1st, you have to have a map you feel confident with. I didn't, so, I compared all the Dyno-Jet Warrior maps, which was closest to my bike set up. 2008, Roadhouse slip-on, Speedstar Intake, Passenger Peg Relocation Kit,

These are the maps I played with, (the one that was loaded into the PC3 by fuel moto, Voodoo Logic-666),( Zero Map 403-000), (Stock 403-001), (Bub Slip-on stock air filter 403-017), (D&D slip-on stock air filter 403-007).

I decided to go back to old school tuning, by reading the plugs. Being Consistant, testing on the same roads, same distance and checking fuel mileage after every test.

I figured,
Full throttle, 100% TPS equals Main Jet,
Cruizing, Constant Speed, Partial TP equal, Needle Jet / Jet Needle.
Idle is equal to Idle Jet.

Start with the map you have, do a plug check. I checked the easy ones, L/H plugs. With Voodoo Logic-666, plugs white hot lean. Bike ran like crap.

Then I went to stock, 403-001, bike still ran lean, However comparing the maps, I knew this one was richer.

Then I went to 403-017, bike ran rich, but crazy fast at higher RPM's and T/P's. Poor fuel mileage, but crazy fast fun. Compared the maps again and this one is quit a bit richer than -001.

Then I went to 403-007, Bike ran perfect, smooth as silk, rear plug perfect, front plug just a little too lean for my liking.

Compared the maps and this one was leaner than -017, but richer than -001

IMHO If both plugs don't look the same, something is off.

Then I indexed my Throttle with a sharpie pen at 0, 25%, 50%, 75% and 100%.

Rode it at 25%, Pulled the clutch in, killed the motor and read the plugs. The longer the ride the better. Take a copy of your map with you, See what the PC3 is doing at those cruize speeds, RPM's and T/P Settings.
Do the same at 50%. I didn't do it at 75% or above, cause most of my riding isn't that fast for that long.

Do this at various RPM's TPS, and speed. Bottom line, IMHO, The plugs should look the same in any condition.

The longer the cruize/ride, the truer, the plug reading will be.

After awhile a pattern will develop. If both cylinders don't always look the same, then 1 cylinder is either too rich or too lean and this is where I think the vibration is coming from and adjust the trim levels as required.

In my case, the front developed a pattern of looking a little too lean, so I trimmed up the front. I also went too rich at 1st. A little vibration came back and then I backed it down, Vibration went away. When you start getting close, thats when you need to start changing to new plugs for a good reading.

Yea its a pain in the rear end pulling the tank off and checking the plugs all the time, but thats what it takes.

BTW, but dyno analyzer (lol) bike runs great.

I will say this, Its a heck of alot easier than getting some 40/50 year European Motocrosser, thats been sitting in the desert for 38 years, with some P.O.S. Bing or Amal Carb dialed in. With those things, you need a pocket full of Main Jets, Needle Jets, Jet Needles, Idle jets, slides, spark plugs, different octain fuels and gas/oil mixtures.


1,985 Posts
Great write up 1256day, I can relate to all that as well. :cool::cool:
I thought carbs as well while doing the PC3 maps, pilot jets, main jets, needle heights, etc.....the worst time was the cross over between pilot and main...haha. I used to swear at those bank of 4 carbs all the time with my previous bikes.
The vibration thing is spot on as well, it can even happen with the wrong map in. I go entirely with the feel of the motor out on the road and when it doesn't feel right in a certain throttle area, I'll work on that area, just like the pilot to main jet cross over with carbs.
I stick to....if you're asking for HP and not getting it, then it's too rich and if you're NOT asking for HP, and getting it, then it's too lean.
Hope your Warrior is going as good as mine at the moment G. :D:D

I appreciate your effort but daymn man I'd rather cough up the money and get it to the dyno
Danny, where's the fun in that :p:p:p:p


Premium Member
4,742 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks folks
You know Gav, you are right, You can feel the difference. I actually want to load in some of the values from the 017 map into the 007 map. Make a super slip-on map.

Danny, I would of done that, but after looking at all the maps and my 2 slip-ons, I was wondering why the maps were so different. Its a freekin pipe with a hole down the center. They are pretty much the same. Plus the Map was so crappy from fuel moto and the plugs, so lean, I started to worry about the valves. In the wintertime, I wasn't too worry, but in the Summertime I better get some color in the plugs.

Plus I've got a few more mods to do. I HAVE to put on my church-key and take off the AIS, Plus some crazy guys (LOL) are designing a pipe I want, so I'm kinda waiting on that.

Also, I often wonder about the folks running the dyno's. The guys by me, didn't even know anything about trimming up the PC3. I only found 1 that new anything about a Warrior and that was up by Rx's house. When I get all that stuff done, then I'll take it to a dyno to see whats going on. Right now I'm very happy.

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