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The nipple on the end of the fuel line picture come loose from the housing, this may be where your leak is from.

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Cleaned it off and checked again this morning after riding yesterday (didn't know it was leaking). I have an almost full tank. Can I flip the tank safely to work on this? Or need to burn some gas up?


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That aluminum fitting that attaches to the tank uses a press-fit connector that is known to come loose. Check through this thread for pics by other members and you will find a match and will know where to look and what to do. I know its a long thread but its worth the time.
Thanks Arizona! Read the whole thing and it's scary how easy this was to push back in. Secured it with zip ties and going to ride around until the gas tank is empty and check for leaks. Either use jb weld or just purchase a new piece.


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Discussion Starter · #263 ·
JB Weld could be bad when it comes to this type assembly.

I believe the same friction-fit design is used for the opposite side tube into the underside of the fuel tank.

I pulled my empty tank and inspected. When I pulled gently the entire thing came out of the fuel tank.

I wiped everything down, padded the tank with a thick towel against damage. The plug end seemed secure on mine. I used steady pressure by hand to re-insert the tube fitting back into the fuel tank side. When it seemed square in the opening I applied as much hand pressure as I could safely. I felt it go in a bit more. It has not come out again since. My plug end has not leaked or come out like yours. I have seen others who did.

Someone here disassembled and did the heat-up to the female bit and the freeze to the male bit. They said it worked. Dunno.

Someone else here bought a new assembly but it was exactly the same friction fit so could come loose again.

To me this is a silly design. But it seems sort of common out there on some different manufacturer's bikes.
 

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Can that be bypassed for short term? Parts are on back order and leak is real bad now
It can but not recommended as there's not a great way to take the tank off if there is any fuel in it at all. There is an aftermarket solution that many, many owners have undertaken where the dry break on the left side is completely replaced.

Check this thread for a parts list and some details:
 

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It can but not recommended as there's not a great way to take the tank off if there is any fuel in it at all. There is an aftermarket solution that many, many owners have undertaken where the dry break on the left side is completely replaced.

Check this thread for a parts list and some details:
Only need it temporarily, as I have the parts on order.
 

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Discussion Starter · #271 ·
Quick disconnects are not good enough. The DRY BREAKS have valves in both halves. If your Warrior is your only transportation then it's fine to run straight fuel hose temporarily and like @Bladerunr mentioned use locking pliers to minimize fuel onto the motor or wait for the fuel light to illuminate (you'll still have fuel in the underseat auxiliary tank).

Pay attention to ID if you use other devices, you don't want to reduce available fuel flow. Many disconnects are single valve and smaller inside diameter. Also it's gravity-fed so keep a slightly declining hose angle.
 

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In fact. The Attwood connectors loose much les gas when disconnecting than the stock Warrior connector. Only thing worse than fuel on your bike is fuel in your bilge.
And
It flows plenty of fuel. My hundred horse Merc I-6 burns about 7 gallons per hour at WOT, and she'll run wide open all day.
 
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