How Many Warriors Have Sprung a Fuel Leak?

madtom421 said:

The nipple on the end of the fuel line picture come loose from the housing, this may be where your leak is from.

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Cleaned it off and checked again this morning after riding yesterday (didn't know it was leaking). I have an almost full tank. Can I flip the tank safely to work on this? Or need to burn some gas up?

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arizonawarrior said:

That aluminum fitting that attaches to the tank uses a press-fit connector that is known to come loose. Check through this thread for pics by other members and you will find a match and will know where to look and what to do. I know its a long thread but its worth the time.

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Thanks Arizona! Read the whole thing and it's scary how easy this was to push back in. Secured it with zip ties and going to ride around until the gas tank is empty and check for leaks. Either use jb weld or just purchase a new piece.

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JB Weld could be bad when it comes to this type assembly.

I believe the same friction-fit design is used for the opposite side tube into the underside of the fuel tank.

I pulled my empty tank and inspected. When I pulled gently the entire thing came out of the fuel tank.

I wiped everything down, padded the tank with a thick towel against damage. The plug end seemed secure on mine. I used steady pressure by hand to re-insert the tube fitting back into the fuel tank side. When it seemed square in the opening I applied as much hand pressure as I could safely. I felt it go in a bit more. It has not come out again since. My plug end has not leaked or come out like yours. I have seen others who did.

Someone here disassembled and did the heat-up to the female bit and the freeze to the male bit. They said it worked. Dunno.

Someone else here bought a new assembly but it was exactly the same friction fit so could come loose again.

To me this is a silly design. But it seems sort of common out there on some different manufacturer's bikes.

That part is manufactured using an interference fit meaning the tube (nipple) is pressed into place, it's not otherwise mechanically attached. If there are no cracks or damage to the assembly, then it can be made right by, if possible, preferably, riding the bike until the fuel light illuminates (indicating the top tank is empty), then (while otherwise leaving the assembly installed on the bike) removing the 'nipple' tube (use no tools if possible), then pull it from the hose, then dry it with a dry rag, put it into a plastic zip lock bag and leave it in the freezer for 2 hours. Meanwhile get a new matching clamp. When time, remove tube from freezer and instantly manually insert it squarely as able. Use a very small wood handled hammer to gently tap tap tap it a few times. Leave it sit half an hour to warm (expand in its hole) before re-attaching the fuel hose using a correct style clamp (perfectly round full capture when tight).

Tons of motorcycles and other machines use interference fit. It's actually a very valid long term solution even in high vibration equipment. In the case of this application, the vibration is mitigated by the fuel tank being rubber-mounted and of course the rubber fuel line. Most of the time the tube remains inserted. Of the many thousands of Warriors manufactured only a few instances are reported here.

Still, this is an item we used to encourage everyone to check. One day while at home, when the low fuel light is illuminated, give a gentle tug on the part and see if it falls out. If it does, fix it. If it does not, and if there are no signs of fuel weeping, let it be.

Scot1700 said:

My 02 (25k miles) just started leaking fuel a few weeks ago, about the same time she started hesitating when taking off or cruising at lower speeds. Noticed fuel coming from the fuel filter assembly (not dripping). The nipple was coming out of the assembly and had to push it back in while driving.
I want to order a new one but no one online. I don't trust a used one, just want to fix the old one but not sure how yet.

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@Scot1700 .. this component appears to be available new on ebay & Dealers! If replacing this part, you'll want too also replace the contoured 2-hole gasket and (2) Flat sealing washers if available.
ADDED: This has been a common failure over the years with this component. Sometimes aggravated by installing a smaller I.D. fuel hose when replacing the factory dry break. Some members have used J-B Weld, externally, and others have used Cable Ties to prevent the Hose Barb from falling completely out.