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Discussion Starter #1
1) Remove the muffler
2) Remove rear head pipe assembly
3) Loosen the drain plug but do not remove
4) Put a piece of cardboard between the frame and the
transfer case underneath the drain plug to channel
the oil into the drain pan
5) Remove the drain plug and lean the motorcycle to the
right to fully drain the case
6) Reinstall and torque the drain plug
7) Remove the oil level check bolt and the oil fill plug
/emoticons/emotion-11.gif With the motorcycle in the level position, fill the transfer
case with SAE 80 API "GL-4" Hypoid Gear Oil
until it just starts to pour out of the level check hole
9) Reinstall and torque the level check bolt and the filler bolt
10) Reinstall the rear head pipe and muffler

/files/tips/tcase-drain.jpg Drain
/files/tips/tcase-fill.jpg Fill Hole
 

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Hey Carknee, great instructions and pics. Beats the heck out of the manuals suggestion to bring to the dealer. [8D]
I thought I would add, for any newbies, that it only takes .42 quarts, so don't expect much lube.
Also, as an alternative, when filling through the fill hole with the bike level, using a flashlight you can easily see when the lube level reaches the center of the level check hole without removing the bolt. No biggie, just saves trying to plug the hole before any lube escapes, maybe a little less wipe up.
 

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Good job, CarKnee, as usual.
So what you think about using synthetic in this application? Red Line has a GL-4 70W80 lubricant called "MTL." Amsoil has a GL-4 80W90. What we think?
 

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folks, you dont have to remove the muffler for transfer case service. i made a tool from a piece of plastic that resembles a cut down butter knife. the hardest thing was starting the threads on the filler plug because of the strange angle & limited space, but it is easier than removeing the exhaust. hope this helps
 

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I can't find any straight 80 weight oil even on the yamaha website all I see is 80W90. Will the 80W90 work? I would much rather use what the manual calls for. Got any suggestions on were I might find a straight 80 weight. Already tried all the parts stores in my area. Tried the amsoil and valvoline web sites too and no luck.
 

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Redline makes a 75W80W GL-4 oil that is commonly used in T-5 Mustang manual transmissions. Another option is a fluid that meets John Deeres J20 specifications or Ford MC 134 Tractor Hydraulic Fluid specs. Chevron calls these THF 1000. Other majors have their own names for these driveline oils. When I worked with Amoco, we had these fluids running in bothe Nascar and Busch cars with literally NO WEAR anywhere in the driveline. Best part of these is the fact that they don't have the super high sulfur phosphorous content of the GL-5 lubricants, which can cause seal and metal corrosion at high temperatures. Also, the 75/90 or 80/90 are too high in viscosity. Yamaha recommends a 80W GL4 which is more like a SAE 20 motor oil in viscosity. Plus the GL4 does not have the extensive additive treat rate so it won't eat up the soft components. If you need more detail, email me at [email protected] I'm a lube engineer with almost 30 years experience in product formulation and will be glad to help you with your concerns.

Sam Vallas
Lubrication Specialist, CLS
Orange City, Florida
386-775-9309
[email protected]
 

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Thanks Carknee for the instructions. Just finished this job, and thought I would add a couple of notes. First, I tried to do this maneuver without removing the muffler and header, and it was a pain in the butt. I managed to completely munge the oil filler plug with various utensils and ended up ordering a new one ($11.50 from Yamahahahaha). Removing the muffler and header may seem like a bigger pain, but after doing the job this way it was worth it. Second, the rear header is easier to get back on if you loosen the front header nuts just a tad. This gives you a little "wiggle room" to make sure everything mates back together without undue force. Further (FYI), I did this without a bike jack, and it worked just fine.

Thanks again!

-M
 

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As I recall, I used Mobil one synthetic gear oil.
 

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This is great! I have to do this in couple of months. Great job CarKnee!! I'm a fan of your howto threads!!! [/emoticons/emotion-2.gif]
 

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quote:Originally posted by kjum

Hey Carknee, great instructions and pics. Beats the heck out of the manuals suggestion to bring to the dealer. [8D]
I thought I would add, for any newbies, that it only takes .42 quarts, so don't expect much lube
Also, as an alternative, when filling through the fill hole with the bike level, using a flashlight you can easily see when the lube level reaches the center of the level check hole without removing the bolt. No biggie, just saves trying to plug the hole before any lube escapes, maybe a little less wipe up.

Here ya go
 

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Im going to try this in a day or two,one quik question, Would it be to my advantage to warm the bike up a bit before draining the gear oil? Just let it idle a while or do I actually need to ride it around?
 

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The only thing in there is a double-row chain and two sprockets. Go to Wal-Mart and get yourself some Rotella 75W-90 GL5 gear lube.

Repeat - the ONLY thing that you are lubricating is a double row chain on two sprockets. Straight 40 or 50 weight motor oil would probably work just fine.

Yamaha calls for a GL-4 (Hypoid shaft drive) gear oil but all of the Yamaha dealers that I've spoken to say that they use the Yamaha GL-5 gear lube. The problem with the GL-5 is that it has a lot more additives (normally good) but has a tendency to eat soft metals (e.g. brass/bronze bearings). Not to worry - none of that in there. If this worries you in the least, find one that says GL-4/GL-5 compatible. Most of them say that already.

Just so you know - 75W-90 gear oil is about the same viscosity as 20W-50 motor oil.

Harley had the same setup in their primary gear cases except that Harley also stuffs the clutch basket in there. Wouldn't waste the $$$ on fully synthetic gear oil just to lube a chain going around and around on two sprockets.

My personal opinion, of course. Your mileage may vary.

 
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