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Discussion Starter #1
Hey fellas here's my issue if you will. Wasn't sure what to call it so I'll just call it an idle or fuel problem. When I'm stopped at a red light my bike Tends to idle at around 850 to 900 or so. Then if I give it just a C-hair of quick throttle to bring it up to 1000 or so, it seems like it chokes on itself and wants to stall and the idle drops to like 500 or 600 and I have to bring it back up. It doesn't do this all the time, but fairly often. Has anybody else experienced this issue or is this a common problem? I haven't started to diagnose the problem yet as I wanted to see if anyone had any suggestions as to where to start and what to look at first. I do have a copy of the service Manuel I download from one of @arizonawarrior links. I also have just about any tool I should need. I just haven't worked on a bike in probably 12 years and didn't just wanna jump into it without asking all you guys who've had warriors for years. My bike an is '09 if that matters.
 

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Start the bike and get warm and make that condition happen again then kill the motor and pull one plug from each jug and compare to a color NGK spark plug chart. Observe for details of each part of the spark plug (threads, protruding threads, porcelain, center electrode, ground electrode) and post attributed pics and observations here. This should be an easy fix
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Sounds good, I'll get on it this afternoon and get some pictures. assuming the plugs may need replaced, what do you guys run for plugs and wires?
 

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Match the stock stud-tipped spark plugs (verify with service e-manual that your plugs are correct). Some of us switch to ngk iridium plugs (not easy to re-gap so read-up on that before deciding).

Your bike likely has stock coils with screw-on boots at the spark plug end. These spark plug wires are permanently embeded and wired into the coils. The primary wires from the bike are push-on copper spades on the coils, be gentle with them and don't mis-wire even tho the coils themselves are not polarity-sensitive.

Post pics of your coils and pics of the top of the motor under the removed top (main) fuel tank. Also of motor left and right sides.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm finally getting time to get into this. Here are the pictures of the stock plugs and coil‘s. It appears the rear left and right plugs do not look too great LOL. They are the ones that look the blackest. The best looking plug was the front left with the next best front right.I did pick up some iridium plugs and they are gapped at .0315 per the service manual as I checked them with feeler gauges. Is there anything else I need to check for while I have things apart? @arizonawarrior ?
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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Also I'm guessing its normal for the check engine line to be on now that I've ran it with the tank unhooked and off? I suppose it's also time to clean the K&N filters as they're pretty dirty. It sounds like when you first blip the throttle it's trying the suck air so to speak. Also I did adjust the idle slightly to keep it idling around 950-1000rpm.
 

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Also I'm guessing its normal for the check engine line to be on now that I've ran it with the tank unhooked and off? I suppose it's also time to clean the K&N filters as they're pretty dirty. It sounds like when you first blip the throttle it's trying the suck air so to speak. Also I did adjust the idle slightly to keep it idling around 950-1000rpm.
NO ... it's not normal for the CEL to be on because of removal of the fuel tank and running the motor.
  • Suggest you check to see if one of the small 5/32" ID vacuum hoses became disconnected from the 2-IAPS components or perhaps it came off and was reconnected improperly to the wrong sensor.
    • The APS has the solid Pink wire conductor and is w/o vacuum hose
  • The filters need cleaning too!
  • What Fuel Management Controller is installed on your ride?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
PC3 is installed. I bought the bike used and it came installed. Next time I can get back out to the garage I'll check the vacum lines as I did not disconnect anything, but that doesn't mean I didn't by chance disconnect one while lifting up to get the front wirse and plugs out.
 

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Also I'm guessing its normal for the check engine line to be on now that I've ran it with the tank unhooked and off? I suppose it's also time to clean the K&N filters as they're pretty dirty. It sounds like when you first blip the throttle it's trying the suck air so to speak. Also I did adjust the idle slightly to keep it idling around 950-1000rpm.
I don't remember getting a CEL when I would run tankless for set-up tests. I don't think those overturn and vent hoses play that way.

Adding: sorry I see its already been addressed.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So when I go into diagnostics mode to #61 its showing zero malfunctions. But then when I go to #62 to malfunction history it says that there is 1 malfunction detected but It isn't giving me a code in #61. The CEL is still on when I start the bike. The only thing I found going through the entire diagnostics process was that the Throttle fully open was only at 89 when the manual range is 95-100.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ok so after reading the manual more carefully it appears that a code 26 is in the clock display. According to the manual is the Intake air pressure sensor. Anyone ever run into this before themselves?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
OK so looking at the wiring diagram Im pretty sure the 2-IAPS are plugged in. Also from what I can see all of the vacume hoses are connected. I'm gonna have to hang it up for the night as the little ones bath time approaches lol. I'll go back out in the am and look for any cracked hoses and just unplug and re-plug all of the connections. However when the key is on and I unplug the intake pressure sensor #1 and plug it back in the code will disappear and the CEL will go off, UNTIL I fire the back again at which point I get the code 26 again. Looks like I could possible have a clogged hoses as well.
 

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Okay. I re-read. Notice that sll three of these sensors are identical. But each 3-wire electrical plug needs to stay with its correct vacuum hose for each cylinder's sensor. Wires for 1 go to 1 and vacuum hose for 1 goes to 1.

If you get confused look in the Documentation forum table of contents for 'if you have trouble after installing a bak' or something similar. It shows what plug by wire colors goes to what cylinder. For hoses, notice the cylinder heads overhang so be certain the vacuum nipple for each matching wire plug is right.

Maybe its good to check it anyway, who knows that could be one trouble you have. But its probably just a vacuum leak in one hose. Did you notice in the manual an indication of which jug's sensor might be the culprit?

The third sensor gets no vac hose. Its all explained in the manual AND in the pdf attached into the Documentation forum.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Okay. I re-read. Notice that sll three of these sensors are identical. But each 3-wire electrical plug needs to stay with its correct vacuum hose for each cylinder's sensor. Wires for 1 go to 1 and vacuum hose for 1 goes to 1.

If you get confused look in the Documentation forum table of contents for 'if you have trouble after installing a bak' or something similar. It shows what plug by wire colors goes to what cylinder. For hoses, notice the cylinder heads overhang so be certain the vacuum nipple for each matching wire plug is right.

Maybe its good to check it anyway, who knows that could be one trouble you have. But its probably just a vacuum leak in one hose. Did you notice in the manual an indication of which jug's sensor might be the culprit?

The third sensor gets no vac hose. Its all explained in the manual AND in the pdf attached into the Documentation forum.
Yep looked it all over and connections are correct. Thing is I never unhooked any of it to change the plugs. This afternoon i took the vacum hoses off of each side and inspected them for cracks or ware. All were good and I even blew them out with the air compressor. So all hoses are good and connections are where they are supposed to be. Do think it could be a stuck throttle position sensor? I'm thinking it may just be sensor #2 itself as I can clear it by unplugging and plugging it back in until I start the bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Suggest you swap the sensors as stated above: Idle/fuel issue?
Ok so I swapped the sensors. The same sensor will give a malfunction code weather its IAP #1, #2, or the atmospheric pressure sensor. I get codes 26 (which is a genral code from what I can tell), 13, 14, and 23 . Which leads me to believe it's the sensor itself that's bad.
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