[Midget66]

I just installed a diy vbak with a coil/sensor relocation plate. The bike started up just fine without throwing any codes but the idle was low. I adjusted the idle to 900, (where it has alwasy been) but it seems toidle rough. At 1000 it idles smoth. I know that it is running rich after changing the plugs. I have a PCIII (serial) with Hardkrome pipes. I am currently running the amspro map. is this normal after a vbak is installed?





Thanks

 

[07midnite]

What's up Midget? My idle was actually higher after the mod was done. After leaving Ken's house that Garage Day I had to pull over in a parking lot and lower the idle. It ran OK but the idle was about 600 rpm's too much. I do think that with any perfrmance mod you'll need to readjust everything. A custom dyno map may be in order if you're using the PClll.

 

[Midget66]

I am waiting to get a new PCIII for a custom map. I have been looking for a map closer to my setup that is in a .map format. The .djm is just giving me headaches. I have adjusted the idle right now to 1k. Is there any place that still has the .map files archived?

 

[sadster]

I am waiting to get a new PCIII for a custom map. I have been looking for a map closer to my setup that is in a .map format. The .djm is just giving me headaches. I have adjusted the idle right now to 1k. Is there any place that still has the .map files archived?

I have my bike adjusted to about 1K on purpose. I did that after reading several 4M threads that indicated oil pressure gets too low at less than that. Obviously one would only know that if they had installed an oil pressure gauge - which I have not. I will say that my bike "feels" like it runs a lot better after tweeking it up.


Also, I wouldn't think that adding a BAK would cause your bike to run rich, in fact just the opposite. The whole purpose is to get more air the cylinders. In any case, rich is rich so you may need a new map. I'm running HK with a BAK also, and am currently running a map i downloaded from DynoJet off their website. I did modifiy it slightly by riching it up a2 barsin the low and medium bands.

 

[Midget66]

Scott,


It I bought this 2002 in April of this year with 5K on it. I am pretty sure it has been running rich for a while from the looks of the plugs. The map that you are running, is it a .map or a .djm file. I could only find .djm on the dynojet site. Since I have the serial version i am looking for a good .map file until i can upgrade to a new PCIII. Any suggestions?

 

[arizonawarrior]

In case helpful, the .MAP and .DJM files are identical except for the .MAP or .DJM name extension. You can take any .MAP and rename it on your computer to samefilename.djm and that is all the conversion needed. Same in reverse, samefilename.map it works both ways. There's more info on the dynojet website.

I am waiting to get a new PCIII for a custom map. I have been looking for a map closer to my setup that is in a .map format. The .djm is just giving me headaches. I have adjusted the idle right now to 1k. Is there any place that still has the .map files archived?

 

[arizonawarrior]

This is a great topic you guys have going because it's always a worry point. Lots of guys keep track, and prep. Here's what I mean. When you makechanges that you know or suspect might require idleand/or air:fuel changes, there are a few other things to add to your procedure and toolbox to give the best chance of success first time.

1. 
   Use air to blow debris from spark plug area, pull and 'read' each plug, clean, check/set gap, carefully reinstall (or new).
2. 
   Check both ends of the spark plug wires. Be careful on the coil end the OEM is not a plug, just be sure it looks solid.
3. 
   On the coil's primary side (front of bike) gentlypush the plugs onto terminals - they come loose easily (and bend easily).
4. 
   Remove and clean all air filters. Plus, ifnew K&N's (similar), check if pre-oil is old or dried-out(if yes clean and oil).
5. 
   Be sure the throttle cables, clutch cable, and their ends, are oiled (I use WD40 on the ball ends and sockets).
6. 
   Donotoil the throttle adjustment screw 'spring' unless its just minor coating to keep it from rusting (which is unlikely).
7. 
   Start and warm-upbike,check and record idle. It bounces around soIMO 1krpm is fine, or set w/laptop & PC3USB.
8. 
   Do one mod or combo-mod (such as VBAK and Coil/Sensor Relocate) then compare warm idle and operation.
9. 
   If you use the ECU Bump method remember to review any prior bumps,record the new bump, and do the math to determine the current "total bump" from OEM on each cylinder. Read your plugs after a bump to see where you are.
10. 
    If you use the PC3 method remember to think about how your mod will affect air:fuel requirementsacross the rpm range before changing numbers for a particluar rpm.Read your plugs after a PC3 adjustment to see where you are.

It sounds like a hassle, but its not. It all happens very fast. Do it once and the second time is like lightening!

I just installed a diy vbak with a coil/sensor relocation plate. The bike started up just fine without throwing any codes but the idle was low. I adjusted the idle to 900, (where it has alwasy been) but it seems toidle rough. At 1000 it idles smoth. I know that it is running rich after changing the plugs. I have a PCIII (serial) with Hardkrome pipes. I am currently running the amspro map. is this normal after a vbak is installed? Thanks

 

[Midget66]

Thanks AW,


I accomplished all listed above when I found it in a previous thread. The warrior riders and this forum are the main reason I bought a warrior instead of a M109 after riding both. I downloaded the allmaps from the dynojet website and it had most of the files in .map and .djm.....I ended up going back to the amspro map although it has a little more backfiring than i would like. I have no idea how to adjust the individual fuel maps per rpm range ( old carb guy from way back.). I have an old set of DG hardkrome pipes that are not available anymore. They look like V&H but are longer and staggerd. I would just like to find a closer match for my setup for the next six/eight months expecially since it seem to be running rich.


I did notice that the pull is harder after going with the vbak and K&N 1290's at 2600rpm and above. although it seems that the lower end tourqe has suffered as per the seat dyno.

 

[whitefeather]

Was it runnig rough before the coil/senser relocation? is the plate in the way of anything? I do one mod at a time. good luck

 

[Midget66]

Actually it was running a little rougher than it is now. I attribute that to the plugs looking so bad before being changed. I checked the plate several times and insured everything was secured underneath and out of the way.

 

[gchalifo]

Scott,


It I bought this 2002 in April of this year with 5K on it. I am pretty sure it has been running rich for a while from the looks of the plugs. The map that you are running, is it a .map or a .djm file. I could only find .djm on the dynojet site. Since I have the serial version i am looking for a good .map file until i can upgrade to a new PCIII. Any suggestions?

Good morning!


Just thought I'd share some thoughts on the pc3 serial, .amp and .djm files etc etc.


What I did was I downloaded and installed the pc3 usb software onto my laptop so that I could open the .djm files and look at the fuel tables across the entire rpm range.


I too amd running amospro's map. What I did was create the amospro map in the pc3 serial software from scratch by simpy typing in the values for the rpm range that is supported in the serial software to make a .map file. So on one window have the usb software open (or print it out for that matter) and on the other window be typing in the values.


It will be obvious right away that the usb software has rpm range increments of ? 250 whereas the serial software is 500 rpm range increments. This is where I simple picked the values of the matching rpm range from the usb, and typed them into the serial map.


I mean the usb has obviously got the advantage with the rpm range fine tuning, but it seems to be working for me having transposed the values to the serial unit.


Further, once I loaded the map, adjusted the idle to between 950-1000ish, did some road testing and plugg checking I have it pretty much right in the zone running nice.


Far as the back firing, some of the pros on this site like woody "churchkey" will ask "WHEN" does it backfire? and he was instrumental in helping me tweek the map until the backfiring all but went away. I had to determine if it was backfiring during decell, or between shifts, or was it just my lazy throttle hand no backing off the throttle between shifts (up or down). By tweeking the map (adding or removing fuel) in certain rpm ranges has become quite the art form here. Several guys have become very good at it. My guess is you will be talking to them as well as they are always ready and willing to help with map questions and tweeks.


No doubt that custom dyno map will be the best thing in terms of a map for performance BUT in the mean time I have had very good success working with the folks here on the forum to get my bike running to what I feel is pretty smooth all around with decent power.


Keep firing the questions....lots of good knowledge out here!!!


Oh, and Merry Christmas!!

 

[Midget66]

Thanks gchalifo,





I think I'll do just that with the map files. As far as the backfiring, it is always on decel/downshifting. I have to ride fairly aggressive here in houston traffic so I dont get run over or turn into a pinball.


Once I change the map over to my format I will write down the rpm range that backfiring is occuring and adjust from there. One question through, how accurate is the lean/rich indicator on the pc itself. I was noticing in the garage that it never went past mid point no matter rpm I was running. It always stayed on the lean side. This seems to contradict the condition of the plugs. Of course with no actual load it could be correct.

 

[gchalifo]

Thanks gchalifo,





I think I'll do just that with the map files. As far as the backfiring, it is always on decel/downshifting. I have to ride fairly aggressive here in houston traffic so I dont get run over or turn into a pinball.


Once I change the map over to my format I will write down the rpm range that backfiring is occuring and adjust from there. One question through, how accurate is the lean/rich indicator on the pc itself. I was noticing in the garage that it never went past mid point no matter rpm I was running. It always stayed on the lean side. This seems to contradict the condition of the plugs. Of course with no actual load it could be correct.

Make sure save the map you are currently running so you can always roll back. And move with caution. I received my instructions from ..?? lets see...arizonawarrior I think it was....and others...\


You could be chasing your tale for ever with this fine tuning. Backfiring can be just a simple bump of the eco (or the cylinder trim function using the pc3 serial tools menu) but move slowly and keep checking those plugs.


Hmmm, the lean indicator?? I noticed the same thing with mine. Keep in mind at idle, I would think you'd be reading real lean cause there's little fuel being pumped to keep the bike running?? just my logic working here. But when we twist that throttle that lean/rich indicator shoots right up.


Not sure how much "stock" I would put in that indicator and would deffinately be more interested in how the plugs are looking.


Fact, it was suggested to me that I level out the low/mid/high indicators on the led on the pc3 as a base line. When the weather is hot, to add a little fuel, and when its cool take a little away. Do a search for the plug color indicator. Folks have thrown up several pictures of the color of the plugs you are trying to get to. General rule of thumb is once you get that tannish/brown color you are right in the ball park.


Bottom line, get a map that works well with your set up, then try some fine tuning if you'd like. I been learning alot from these guys by doing this.


good luck and keep us posted!