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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, so all you senior guys have been asked this many a time! Have just got my new handle bars, a ton of Kuryakyn bling, braided cables and second hand stock switches, clutch perch and master cylinder. Want to start the internal wiring this weekend, and just looking over the parts have come up with the first problem! How can I internally fit the two wires on the left side and still attach to the clutch swith? The right hand brake switch wires come out of the side so won't be a problem.:confused:
 

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1) Drink beverage of choice and pull out back-up list of curse words in case you run out.
2) Remove handgrips from both sides. They're glued on, and can be a pain. Work it baby.
3) Remove tank or cover it with a THICK pad (don't ask).
4) Remove controls and let them hang freely
5) Remove 4 bolts holding tach cover, and rotate tach forward to gain more access
6) Turn bars to left, and remove 2 bolts underneath risers (under the triple trees). Have someone hold bars while you're doing this.
7) You'll probably have to drill out the left side hole where the riser bolt goes in. There's a plate under the trees (it has your wire looms on it) which for some reason seems like the left side hole is smaller). Just take a drill, match a bit to the hole, and ream it up and down a couple of times from the top. This will make putting your new riser bolt in a lot easier.
8) Have same someone hold new bars in place while you bolt them from the bottom. Use the same stock rubber washer/spacers between risers and triple tree. Don't overtighten, or you will have vibration issues -use a torque wrench. Having said that, I didn't. I just tightened till it felt tight, but not crazy tight. I have no issues (I'm saying this in case you don't have a torque wrench).
9) Put Clutch Perch back on. If you don't it will probably be on the wrong side of the drilled out hole for your wiring, and you'll have a heck of a time getting it past said wiring. You CAN spread the clutch perch and slide it past, but it will often crack and you'll be buying a new perch. Don't ask me how I know. Loosely assemble the left/right controls, so that you have your wiring available, and not hanging loosely anymore.
10) Cut wires about 5 inches behind headlight bucket. You don't want to cut too close, or you'll be soldering them back together in an awkward place. When you cut them, stagger the cuts so that you don't have a huge blob of soldered joints all right next to each other.
11) Strip plastic sheathing off of wires. Leave about 3 inches on the 2 wire clutch switch, but go all the way to the left control housing for the other wires. (or you can re-tape the clutch switch wires if you choose so that they match -if so, then cut all the sheathing off of that as well).
12) Take a piece of light twine, and stick it into the lower drilled out hole. Put a vacuum cleaner nozzle on the end of your bars (block off the other end for now with a piece of tape or something) and suck the light twine through the hole and out the top hole. You may have it come out the end of the bars, but then it's easy to fish through the pre-drilled hole at the top.
13) Attach a piece of strong fishing line to the twine, and pull it through. You may be able to suck the fishing line through with your vacuum. I never tried, since I had some twine laying around, and I know that works well. But if you don't have twine, it's worth a shot.
14) Get some high quality electrical tape and wrap your wiring bundle TIGHT. Wrap it from the top where it goes into the control unit. Wrap the clutch wiring seperately for a few inches, then wrap the main bundle tape around the whole thing and continue on until you reach the bottom. Wrap past the end of the wiring, and make a pointy end with your tape.
15) Tie your fishing line TIGHT to the bundle (above the pointy end, where you can sink the fishing line in deep). Really tie it tight.
16) Grease the whole thing up.
17) Push/pull it through. If you do it right, it will go in one pass, and won't take but 30 seconds.
18) Unwrap the pointy end, and start soldering the wires back together one at a time -so that you can easily match them up and you won't need a story board.
19) If you have to, now is when you splice/solder in a 5 inch (or so) section of wiring for each wire.
20) Make sure you put heat/shrink wrap on each end of each individually soldered wire.
21) Wrap the now spliced in section (if required) with electrical tape
22) Tighten controls where you want them
23) Test everything. Remember, the headlight won't come on until you start the bike
24) Drink another (or your 6th or whatever) beverage of your choice, admiring your work and thinking "Dammmm I just saved 200 bucks" :)

I really should write all of this down, so I don't keep writing it down :)
 

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Nice write up, LD, much more like this and you'll be angling toward an EOBA!

My only suggestion would be to remove women and children from the work areea prior to beginning work, preferably to an all day off-site activity. Then, read through all of the instructions twice and be sure you have everything you need before starting. Don't ask me how I know this.

The curse words will come in handy.

Seriously, though, great write up!
 

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My left switch ended up sitting directly over the hole in my bars (super clean look) so I had to take the left switch apart and run the wires around the horn/blinker plate so that they never actually leave the housing. The only two wires that go out are about an inch long and run to the clutch perch switch you mentioned.

O yeah forgot to mention that I had to extend two said wires so that they could run through bar and then out to clutch switch
 

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Nice write up, LD, much more like this and you'll be angling toward an EOBA!

My only suggestion would be to remove women and children from the work areea prior to beginning work, preferably to an all day off-site activity. Then, read through all of the instructions twice and be sure you have everything you need before starting. Don't ask me how I know this.

The curse words will come in handy.

Seriously, though, great write up!
totally agree, there was nothing more annoying that sitting there with a hot soldering iron answering questions from the wife.

As far as EOBA, there's a huge list of guys who deserve it WAAAAAY more than I do. I just don't want this poor guy to have to go through what I went through...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks Guys. Have started but not gone beyond fitting the clutch perch and master cylinder, stripping off the sleeving from the switch housings and adding some length to the wires in preperation. Now need to lengthen wires on the Kurakyn turn signal mirrors so they can be fed down the bars as well. The Kuryakyn master cylinder cover will have to be modifiied with a bit of brute force due to the 1.25" bars!
 

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Yeah, they do. You can buy all sorts of glue grip, Harley sells some good stuff. However, I it had some spray glue that I used for a headliner laying around, and it worked fine too. Basically any spray glue that you can spray into the grip should work. Some work better, but that just means you would have to redo it later.
 
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