[arizonawarrior]

These bikes use the same front turn signal lenses as the Warrior.

FITMENT:
fit For Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic 1996-2008
fit For Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Drifter 2001-2005
fit For Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Mean Streak 2002-2003
fit For Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Nomad 1999-2004
fit For Kawasaki Vulcan 1600 Mean Streak 2004-2008
fit For Kawasaki Vulcan 500 1996-2009
fit For Kawasaki Vulcan 750 1986-2006
fit For Kawasaki Vulcan 800 / Classic / Drifter 1995-2006
fit For Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Classic / LT / Custom 2006-2012
fit For Kawasaki W650 2000-2002
fit For Kawasaki Zephyr 1100 1992-1995
fit For Kawasaki Zephyr 550 1990-1993
fit For Kawasaki Zephyr 750 1991-1993
fit For Kawasaki ZN1100 Shaft 1984-1985
fit For Kawasaki ZN700-A1 Shaft 1984-1985
fit For Kawasaki Eliminator 1000 1987
fit For Kawasaki Eliminator 125 2001-2009
fit For Kawasaki Eliminator 250 1988-1994
fit For Kawasaki Eliminator 600 1986-1987
fit For Kawasaki Eliminator 600 1996-1997
fit For Kawasaki Eliminator 900 1985-1986
fit For Yamaha Warrior 2001-2007
fit For Yamaha V-Star 950/T 2006-2012
fit For Yamaha V-Star 1300/T (All Years)
fit For Yamaha V-Star Stryker (All Years)
fit For Yamaha Roadliner / XV1900 / Raider Models (All Years)

 

[Turd_fergusson]

Right on right on, just figured a fellow warrior had some burning a hole on a shelf. Since we’re taking turn signals. I have the BAZ15D3 front turn signals, what’s the cheapest and easiest way to make them LED? Already have the resistor plugged in for my rear lights.

 

[arizonawarrior]

I know you already know. Install 2-circuit amber LED bulbs into the stock bulb sockets and find Kuryakyn or Yamaha or other clear lenses. Try SuperBrite or other direct-swap led twist-in units. Front signals with running lights

I've seen complete front signal sets on here for sale cheaper than buying new clear lenses.

 

[PeterSik]

do read up on the Click Of Death (COD) if you're gonna take your running lights out of the system or replacing them with LEDs

 

[Turd_fergusson]

Great advice but no I want to use the stock signals as they are. I just want clear lenses and bright white LEDs. Do you happen to remember what prong I file down on a 1157 bulb?

 

[PeterSik]

that is replacing the incandescent running lights.. or taking them out of the system mate

 

[Turd_fergusson]

Correct. I wanna keep the running lignt and blinker feature. I just wanna upgrade to an LED over incandescent bulb. The only LEDs I can find are the 2 prong type. The incandescent one currently on my bike has 3. I remember reading about filing a prong down but I can’t recall which one 🤙🏽

 

[random_guy]

Correct. I wanna keep the running lignt and blinker feature. I just wanna upgrade to an LED over incandescent bulb. The only LEDs I can find are the 2 prong type. The incandescent one currently on my bike has 3. I remember reading about filing a prong down but I can’t recall which one 🤙🏽

Then you’ll most likely have issues with COD. LED’s, regardless of form, don’t provide the same analogue voltage drain that is needed to bleed residual voltage out of the system. LED’s are more digital so they’ll immediately switch off on power off instead of gradually fading like incandescents do.

I’ve learned way too much about bulbs because of COD……

 

[PeterSik]

it's not the fact they switch off quickly.. it's the fact they're diodes.. they only let power through in 1 direction.. to avoid COD a little needs to flow the other way after the lights go out.

 

[Turd_fergusson]

hmmm well I did already install a relay so I do not have the fast flash. Rear are LED and front are incandescent.

 

[random_guy]

hmmm well I did already install a relay so I do not have the fast flash. Rear are LED and front are incandescent.

Relay doesn’t fix it; only fast flash.

 

[arizonawarrior]

@Turd_fergusson

Slow down brother!!

Your relay change from stock to electronic flasher fixes fastflash, but it also takes away turn signal auto-cancel. Some here do this anyway.

COD is different. It needs another load (bulb filament or resistor assembly or just use a relay coil-side for the load). Lots of ink around here on COD.

COD has nothing to do with FAST-FLASH.
FAST-FLASH has nothing to do with COD.
The mere fact that both filaments share a bulb is meaningless.

The stock fronts have bulbs with two filaments. Each filament is on a totally different circuit. The signal filament is connected to the signal circuit. The front running light filaments are connects to a completely different circuit. No matter how you want it to be different, if you install LED's in the front, you are likely to create COD and will need a replacement electrical load in some form. Or don't, and you can buy a new battery every few days. Read-up and you will learn there are times when you won't or more candidly there are times you won't until later you remove the stock license plate bulbs or some such thing that appears completely separate. Then suddenly you need a new battery. Or other repairs.

Slow down brother. The guys are trying to help you. Nobody is selling you anything. We are here for the love of this bike. Do are you maybe.

 

[Turd_fergusson]

no no I’m not in any hurry I’m just taking all this in. I appreciate everything you guys tell me. I totally do not have a plate light. So basically if I wanna run LEDs up front I’ll have to address the COD? I’ve seen plenty of the Life of brian feller videos on youtube. Those are super helpful too. You guys rock🤙🏽

 

[PeterSik]

correct. if you want LED's up front you'll need some kind of mitigation, like Arizona said, there's plenty of ink on it.
just do a site search for COD. cos it's something you do not want to happen to your bike.

 

[Turd_fergusson]

Alright alright, guess I’ll be digging into the rats nest behind the headlight. Do you which prong I file so 1157 LEDs fit in the stock turn signals?