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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’m reading about maps and Ivan’s ecu flash. I need some help for what my next step should be My bike has 3” hard krome and pc3 tuner. I’m still new to this bike but can’t stand the popping exhaust when shifting ( occasionally ) which I understand is injector cut? Also the harsh engine braking. Is there a better map for the the pc3 to help eliminate some of this or do I need to do the Ivan’s flash ? from what I’ve read the issues I have can be resolved or minimized. Also I do not have the ais delete would that make any dramatic difference. It’s an 06 warrior. 7000klms. Bought from original owner who purchased it from the dealer who had done all the work to it as a show bike apparently or that’s what he told me. Any help is appreciated. Thanks guys.
 

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Ais delete will help with the backfiring.
Ivan's flash will help with the jakebreak and throttle cut.
 
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+1. (meaning I agree with the earlier post)

Also, identify which version of the PC3 you have. First, is it a serial connection or USB? If serial then its trash. They are so old they are failing due to physical age.

If USB then there are two versions and they mostly appear the same:
The PC3USB Gen1 version originally required a crimp connector at the TPS wire on the right side between the jugs, and came with two black ground wires, but subsequently may have been rewired, so if you think you might have this Gen1 version then read-up on the 'Perfect Install' and you will learn how to know if its Gen1 and if it's perfect-installed or needs to be.
The PC3USB Gen2 version looks the same and has same part#. But it has only one black ground wire and it has all-plugs (no crimp). If you can completely unplug it without cut/splice/crimp then it's Gen2 and does not need perfect install.
Most of the time the posts here do not refer to Gen1 Gen2 because it wasn't the term used. But use all terms above as search criteria and you will quickly figure out what you have. Then there's plenty of advice waiting to be offered!

The PC3 (PCiii) is only a fuel duration manager.

Ivan's flash modifies parameters removing most engine braking and raising rpm redline. Some say if you have Ivan's then you do not need a fuel duration manager. But most of us discovered otherwise.

If you decide to replace your PC3 then consider PC5 (PC-V) that can be dialed-in exactly for your hardware, or Cobra PowrPro CVT Autotuner that dials itself in close enough. Both are shown to work well.

Even with all this, as Sandytows mentioned you need to do the -AIS (AIS Delete) or you will probably still have some induced popping and booming.

The Documentation forum has a table of contents. No live links purposefully. You browse to what you want then scroll to info and attachments.

The Welcome Mat forum has a few help files and our rules you're gonna want to know about so you don't appear silly in the forums lol.

Welcome aboard!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the help , I ordered the ais delete and will save some cash for the ecu flash. Likely do it over winter as I don’t want the downtime. Might send it when o have to travel up north for work as I’ll be gone anyways.
 

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Welcome aboard! Ais delete is great. Ivan will usually turn the ECU around in a few days, so your down time will be only about a week-10 days. Best to call him before you buy as he will have questions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I also started reading about the ecu programming last night with the c01 /c02 and read about how to change that with the pc3. Not sure if that’s something I can explore as well. I’ll check my plugs to see where they are at. Also noted that my yellow wire with the red stripe is cut and had the quick connectors installed. There was also an additional ground that had been cut where the pc3 grounds so I imagine it at some point had the gen 1 pc3 as there is only one ground wire now.
 

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I also started reading about the ecu programming last night with the c01 /c02 and read about how to change that with the pc3. Not sure if that’s something I can explore as well. I’ll check my plugs to see where they are at. Also noted that my yellow wire with the red stripe is cut and had the quick connectors installed. There was also an additional ground that had been cut where the pc3 grounds so I imagine it at some point had the gen 1 pc3 as there is only one ground wire now.
Oops CO1/CO2 are changed with the ECU Bump only. The Fuel Manager amends the fuel map in the ECU. They are separate. If you have a fuel manager then its more powerful so use it and ignore the ECU Bump. But its good to read-up on both so you can identify by observation the details that indicate what hardware you have.
 

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Have you checked to see what map you have loaded currently? When I purchased my second Warrior, it was running like poop but knew it couldn't be anything serious since it sat for so long. It came with pipes, a VBAK, AIS plates and PC3.
Upon further inspection there wasn't a map loaded. So loaded a map, swapped plugs (they were dodo) and fresh fluids and the beast was back.
So don't take for granted that the right map is loaded onto your PC. With the right tune and the AIS delete the popping/banging will be bearable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Have you checked to see what map you have loaded currently? When I purchased my second Warrior, it was running like poop but knew it couldn't be anything serious since it sat for so long. It came with pipes, a VBAK, AIS plates and PC3.
Upon further inspection there wasn't a map loaded. So loaded a map, swapped plugs (they were dodo) and fresh fluids and the beast was back.
So don't take for granted that the right map is loaded onto your PC. With the right tune and the AIS delete the popping/banging will be bearable.
I have no idea how to check what program is in there. Will I need to download something onto my computer ? Also what cable can I use ? I looked at the connector and I think I have a cable that fits from an old cell phone or ps3 controller cable. Also we only have a MacBook at home. As my pc laptop I have from work will not allow me to download anything on it.
 

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So post a pic of it. If it is an old PC USB then finding a cable should be easier even tho I went thru 20 cables and none worked. Most of the old USB cables were meant just to power and charge so they were built to transfer data. Ended up going to the last Radio Shack (now closed) and snagged a cable for $5 that would transfer data. You will need a PC as I am pretty sure Apple is not supported. Then you need to download the PC app, then connect it to the bike and see if there is even a map loaded onto there. If not there are a bunch of maps on this forum that could work for your combo. A well matched map and AIS delete will get rid of most of the popping.
 

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I have no idea how to check what program is in there. Will I need to download something onto my computer ? Also what cable can I use ? I looked at the connector and I think I have a cable that fits from an old cell phone or ps3 controller cable. Also we only have a MacBook at home. As my pc laptop I have from work will not allow me to download anything on it.
I only have a MacBook at home too. I use Parallels to load Windows onto it and then use the USB cable (like the PS3 controller cable) to connect to the Power Commander. You'll need the Dynotune software available on their website. I know Parallels has a free trial time and I think Windows does too. Since this isn't something that you'll need constant access to, it's something you should be able to knock out during the trial phases.

The other option would be to find a buddy with a Windows laptop that could help you out. I actually did that first for a buddy on there back in October before I installed my PC III.
 

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I only have a MacBook at home too. I use Parallels to load Windows onto it and then use the USB cable (like the PS3 controller cable) to connect to the Power Commander. You'll need the Dynotune software available on their website. I know Parallels has a free trial time and I think Windows does too. Since this isn't something that you'll need constant access to, it's something you should be able to knock out during the trial phases.

The other option would be to find a buddy with a Windows laptop that could help you out. I actually did that first for a buddy on there back in October before I installed my PC III.
Thanks for clearing that up. Figured you were an "Apple" guy.
Mac Nerd.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ok here are the pics of the controller With the connections and serial / part number for good measure. As for the computer I’ll just steal my dads as he borrowed my table saw and I haven’t seen it in 2 years. So I think I have that ironed out. I looked on dynojets webpage and did not see a map for my set up closest I seen was hard krome straights and vbak. I’m keeping my airbox stock for now. So where/how would I get the correct file? Only through this website or email dynojet with all the info. Also I’m curious as to what the programmer does from the technical side but I’ll read up on their website about and ask the warrior specialist here if I have any other questions.
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I have no idea how to check what program is in there. Will I need to download something onto my computer ? Also what cable can I use ? I looked at the connector and I think I have a cable that fits from an old cell phone or ps3 controller cable. Also we only have a MacBook at home. As my pc laptop I have from work will not allow me to download anything on it.

The cable is identified in the Fuel Managers section of the Documentation forum.
 

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Ok here are the pics of the controller With the connections and serial / part number for good measure. As for the computer I’ll just steal my dads as he borrowed my table saw and I haven’t seen it in 2 years. So I think I have that ironed out. I looked on dynojets webpage and did not see a map for my set up closest I seen was hard krome straights and vbak. I’m keeping my airbox stock for now. So where/how would I get the correct file? Only through this website or email dynojet with all the info. Also I’m curious as to what the programmer does from the technical side but I’ll read up on their website about and ask the warrior specialist here if I have any other questions.
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I’d definitely look for a map that’s close on here. Download a few that are close and experiment to find the one that runs the best.
 

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Here are some maps from some forum members
 
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