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Discussion Starter #1
I just got my LED's in the mail. 2 sets of 10 LED ambers 1mm spacing. Can these be wired as the running lights as well? Or do I need 2 more sets of the red LED's to wire as running lights? I know this has been covered, but, I'm still a bit confused. I'm going to solder a bulb in the headlight bucket for resistance I guess (unless there's a better way of accomplishing this) while I'm in there doing Redhorse's garage door opener mode. Also, the package says they need to be water sealed prior to use. Silicon? Thanks guys.
 

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All right! Are you swapping the rear signals for led's, or are you swapping the front signals for led's?


If rear: The bulb in the headlight bucket needs to be positioned (and fixed in place) so its heat doesn't melt insulation off wires.One stockbulb (per circuit*) will do, youneed a draw on the circuit to slow down the signal rate from removing the incandescent bulbs (or use a Kuryakyn LEQ).Unless you removed the brake light, you already have a rear running light. If you want the rear signals to be running lights also then you'd have to check the led's you bought to see if they are wired for two circuits.


If front: The bulb in the headlight bucket needs to be positioned (and fixed in place) so its heat doesn't melt insulation off wires.One smallerbulb will do, youneed a circuit to drain excess power to avoid the click of death from removing the front running lights. You might also use aKuryakyn LEQ to maintain flash rate if desired. You can't have red lights up front or people will think your front is your back and youare going the other way! Many don't have front running lights but most local laws require them, its your call. You'd have to check the led's you bought to see if they are wired for two circuits, which would give to front signals and front running lights.


A quick search for "LEQ" or "LED" or a quick run thru LIGHTS in Popular Mods will yield a lot of helpful information!


* thanks alan, I thought that was obvious but maybe it wasnot.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You rock AW! Also helpful and quick too! OK, the dealer is installing my rear integrated tail light for me and removing the stock crap from the rear and mounting my plate under it, nice and clean! These are for the front. I want to remove the stock ugly running/turn signal lights like I did on the rear. So, that said, I'm going to mount these on the lower triple tree. My question is, can I somehow wire THESE strips to be both running AND turn signal lights? I have search and read everything I could find on here. Seems someone bought a dual wiring thingy but didn't use it because he could see the flash mode because of the brightness. I'm stuck....lol
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I ordered and already received the 10 light radiantz LED's. They are per-wired and in a housing. I just need the skinny on how to wire these suckers! lol
 

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The LEDs you have now are a single on or off bulb (two wires from the LEDs, a+ and a-). The parts in the links above are basicly a controler so you canmake them actlikea dual filament bulb (constant on, thencompletely off). Thecontroler has 3 wires on one end that you splice into your stock turnsignal wiring, the other end only has 2 wires that you splice into your new LEDs.


Ifyou want them to act likerunning lights and turnsignals you need to get one of these controlers.
 

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It sounds like you read a post by me back when I did mine Ruckus. I bought the dual intensity relays so I could use them as running lights and turn signals but after seeing them work decided against it. Even though there is a difference in brightness it's just not enough in my opinion to use them as both. It's MUCH more visibly noticeable and clear when those suckers start flashing out of nowhere then going from running light to flashing. My advice would be to just hook up the turn signals, not both.
 

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Marco Polo said:
Even though there is a difference in brightness it's just not enough in my opinion to use them as both. It's MUCH more visibly noticeable and clear when those suckers start flashing out of nowhere then going from running light to flashing.

The new "eclipse" module from custom dynamics makes it sothe LEDsare 100%full brightnessas a running light, then when the turnsignal is switched on, itflashes from full on to full off. This way it is easily seen and you don't have the issue that you discribed.
 

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royale5 said:
+1 ...



This is the way to go as long as your new LED stripdoesn't draw more than 300mA


This 3-wire device operates the running lights @ 100% intensity and the turn signal from 100% to 0% (OFF) for a full contrast as stated.


My dual circuit 3-wire Kuryakyn 2372 LED rear lights operate exactly as stated above and are very visible at night. I've had nothing butpositive comments fromothers!


You're going to need 2-Kuryakyn #4810 LEQ's to correct the flash rate unless the integrated rear taillight already has something to handle the load. If that's the case start w/ 1-LEQ


The COD (Click of Death) can be corrected in several ways. Depends if you want to use an active (incandescent bulb or relay) or passive (resistor) device. Examples: 12v - 3watt instrument bulb, horn relay or 100 ohm - 10watt resistor. You'll need to connect any of these devices to the Blue running light wire that is available in several places on the bike. Head light, under seat or rear taillight


If interested here's some links of mine:


http://flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157602604626135/


http://flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157602604626389/


http://flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157602601844694/
 

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royale5 said:
Marco Polo said:
Even though there is a difference in brightness it's just not enough in my opinion to use them as both. It's MUCH more visibly noticeable and clear when those suckers start flashing out of nowhere then going from running light to flashing.

The new "eclipse" module from custom dynamics makes it sothe LEDsare 100%full brightnessas a running light, then when the turnsignal is switched on, itflashes from full on to full off. This way it is easily seen and you don't have the issue that you discribed.
+2 ...
 

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royale5 said:
The new "eclipse" module from custom dynamics makes it sothe LEDsare 100%full brightnessas a running light, then when the turnsignal is switched on, itflashes from full on to full off. This way it is easily seen and you don't have the issue that you discribed.

Ahhh, excellent. That sounds like a MUCH better solution then blinking 50/100% and that way you won't have to worry about not having run lights and getting ticketed for it. What would be even more ideal still in my opinionwould be the running light mode still only operating at 50% and then have the full 0 to 100% with the turn signals. I guess that wouldn't be too hard to accomplish. Thanks for the heads up royale5, I might have to consider that.
 

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Arizona Warrior said:
All right! Are you swapping the rear signals for led's, or are you swapping the front signals for led's?

If rear: The bulb in the headlight bucket needs to be positioned (and fixed in place) so its heat doesn't melt insulation off wires.One stockbulb will do, youneed a draw on the circuit to slow down the signal rate from removing the incandescent bulbs (or use a Kuryakyn LEQ).Unless you removed the brake light, you already have a rear running light. If you want the rear signals to be running lights also then you'd have to check the led's you bought to see if they are wired for two circuits.

If front: The bulb in the headlight bucket needs to be positioned (and fixed in place) so its heat doesn't melt insulation off wires.One smallerbulb will do, youneed a circuit to drain excess power to avoid the click of death from removing the front running lights. You might also use aKuryakyn LEQ to maintain flash rate if desired. You can't have red lights up front or people will think your front is your back and youare going the other way! Many don't have front running lights but most local laws require them, its your call. You'd have to check the led's you bought to see if they are wired for two circuits, which would give to front signals and front running lights.

A quick search for "LEQ" or "LED" or a quick run thru LIGHTS in Popular Mods will yield a lot of helpful information!
The information you are providing here to correct the flash rate with a single stock bulb isnot accurate
... you'll need 2-bulbs minimum to trick the flasher
LH & RH
 

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Discussion Starter #15
AlanH said:
royale5 said:
+1 ...



This is the way to go as long as your new LED stripdoesn't draw more than 300mA


This 3-wire device operates the running lights @ 100% intensity and the turn signal from 100% to 0% (OFF) for a full contrast as stated.


My dual circuit 3-wire Kuryakyn 2372 LED rear lights operate exactly as stated above and are very visible at night. I've had nothing butpositive comments fromothers!


You're going to need 2-Kuryakyn #4810 LEQ's to correct the flash rate unless the integrated rear taillight already has something to handle the load. If that's the case start w/ 1-LEQ


The COD (Click of Death) can be corrected in several ways. Depends if you want to use an active (incandescent bulb or relay) or passive (resistor) device. Examples: 12v - 3watt instrument bulb, horn relay or 1k - 10watt resistor. You'll need to connect any of these devices to the Blue running light wire that is available in several places on the bike. Head light, under seat or rear taillight


If interested here's some links of mine:


http://flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157602604626135/


http://flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157602604626389/


http://flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157602601844694/
OK, so I need 2 Eclipz Modules and 2 LEQ's? Is that right? I wire the LED's through the module and the blue power wires through the LEQ's?
 

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Ruckus said:
OK, so I need 2 Eclipz Modules and 2 LEQ's? Is that right? I wire the LED's through the module and the blue power wires through the LEQ's?
George, i'm going to respond to this but once as clearly as possible because there seems to be some confusion here and hopefully others will support what i say


[*]The suggested module by royale5 is a pair for the LH & RH Frt LEDlight strips. As stated earlier, be sure your new LED's don't draw more than 300mA ... i doubt that this will be a problem... chk your vendor specs
[*]Based on the photos of themodule i see 3-wires (Blk, Red, Org) that i assume are the inputs and 2-wires (Blk, Red)that are the outputs that will connect to the newLED strips. The Inputs will connect to the existing Warrior wiring (chk vendor instructions)

[*]Brown/Chocolate=LH T/S, Blue=Running Light, Black=Grnd
[*]Green=RH T/S, Blue=Running Light, Black=Grnd[/list][/list]


For starters you'll need at least 1-LEQ as i stated earlier .... This device does not, I REPEAT, does not connect to the Blue running light circuit. The COD is an entirely different issue so set that aside.

[*]The LEQ (3-wire device)must be connected in parallel with the T/S circuit wiring. Doesn't matter where. I disclosed my methodology earlier in the links


[*]The Kuryakyn 4810 has 3-wires. 1-Blk & 2-Purple

[*]Blk to Warrior Blk
[*]Purple to Warrior Brown
[*]Purple to Warrior Green[/list]
[*]If this doesn't correct the factory flash rate add another 4810 or any equivalent LEQ on the market. It's possible to source a single adjustable LEQ from other vendors i suspect for more $'s ... your choice.[/list][/list]


The COD will require an Active or Passive device as already stated earlier and i will not repeat myself except for the hard wire connections

[*]No matter what you choose, it will have 2-wires only & is a parallel connection

[*]Connect 1-wire to the Warrior Blue running light wire& 1-wire to the Warrior Blk Grnd wire located in several places on the bike as stated earlier[/list][/list]


Disclaimer: Be advised that i have never personally used this Eclipze Modulebut would have if it was available 5-yrs ago in lieu of my Kuryakn 2372 mod. I suggest you use some minature wire nuts and or jumpers to temporarily make your connections before fully committed!


Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter #17
*blushes, bows his head and stares at his feet* Sorry I don't know how to do this and thank you Alan.
 

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Ruckus said:
*blushes, bows his head and stares at his feet* Sorry I don't know how to do this and thank you Alan.

Don't feel bad as i didn't either when i made the plunge to the rear Led's on my bike back in late '04'. When i did the frt's i used a HD dual filament Deuce bullet light in fear of the COD or solenoid syndrome. It took me a couple of years to go full Led's so you are much more advanced than i was.


At the Rumble in the Redwoods 2007, the 1st morning out several members helped me push start my bike because of the flashing speedo light which is directly related to the COD
 
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