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Ok I know that this has been posted a bunch and that I have read the answer but I have now spent 1 hour trying to find the thread again and can't.

I am about to put LED turn signals on my Warrior and need to know what kind of resistor to put on it in order to avoid the COD. I know that keeping it in neutral and turning it off with the key is a good alternative, but there are a few places that I park on a regular basis where I need to keep it in gear in order for it not to roll down into the street (have no idea why they graded the entire parking lot at my work that steeply).

There was a really good write up including the proper kuryakyn part that would be needed (was going to look and see if there was a more generic part at my local autozone) that I randomly found about 3 months back but now I can't find it again.

My other question on this would be if I would do the front and back lights is there a central place to put the resistor or is it just easier to get two and put them in different places?

I would also like to submit that if someone could do the write up with why you need to do this, and the right parts and the like that this should be something in the "Sticky" section as it is something that is very common and seems like everyone has a question about at some point (I mean we are talking about adding LEDs here, who won't do that at some point? lol)

Thanks for the help on this! Again even a link to the original writeup would be great and then I can delete this to have less clutter on the forum.
 

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I cant answer all but I'll chimein with what i know....


The resistor needs to be on the blue wire as this is the running light circuit. To my knowledge it doesn't matter where (front or back) you install the resistor/load balancer as long as it is attached to this lead.

I can only find 2 load equalizers from Kury, Based on their blurb on the website, either should work.
Low Heat Load Equalizer | Küryakyn
Load Equalizer | Küryakyn
 

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I like the info posted later in reply to my original post here, so I'm amending this post accordingly.

-----

The Warrior needs a pathway to drain the residual ECU electricity when the bike is shut off. Electricity
flows through completed circuits. The Warrior uses the front RUNNING light incandescent (filament) bulbs to
burn-off that residual electricity. In the event these bulbs are blown or have been removed, they are no
longer available to burn off that juice. So the electricity flows to the next place: the license plate
light bulb if it has not been removed. The next place after that is the Decompression Solonoid which will
bleed the battery dry unless manually interrupted.

COD has nothing to do with the LED tail/brake light because LED bulbs have such a low load, and because
they electrically operate differently than incandescent bulbs, the residual ECU voltage won't go there.

Notice that COD has nothing to do with the turn signal bulbs. The front running lights and front turn signals
just happen to share the same bulb: the turn signal filament of that bulb is on the turn signal circuit, the
running light filament of that same bulb is on the headlight circuit. I'm being careful to discuss only COD
here, not turn signal fast-flash which has a totally different cause and solution.

-----

[amended by ArizonaWarrior 30 Nov 2011]
 

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Keeping this separate:
For COD, here's two good quality relays at a good price (under $5):
Song Chuan 896H-1CH-C-12VDC 30/50 relay (flux tight)
Song Chuan 896H-1CH-S-12VDC 30/50 relay (water sealed)
I found the first relay ('C') here on RSW a few years ago, and recently learned
it has a water-tight ('S') version so I'm getting one even tho I have a spare ('C').

These units have silver contacts and are very vibration resistant, but like
I said I ordered a spare anyway just in case. This relay now seems more
available on the net so google variations of the part number: 896H-1CH.

Other relays can be found at auto supply stores, some are physically larger
and some are not as vibration resistant (important to a coil). Suggest an
underseat mount for larger relays to avoid damage in the headlight bucket.

These are easy to wire into the light-blue wire inside the headlight
bucket (where the front running lights originally plugged-in) or the
same circuit under the rider seat (several photo-posts on that topic
do a forum search).

Being a 'relay' it has two 'sides' and you only use the 'coil' side
so connect the coil terminal to the (for example: light blue wire),
and connect the exit terminal from the relay coil to the black ground
wire or to a suitable frame ground (but if the ground contact corrodes
your COD will return). Tape-up the relay's battery-connection terminals
as they are not used (avoids mechanic's confusion in the future).

How it works: the relay's Coil burns off residual ECU voltage the
same way the stock running light filaments do (when installed).

Just a reminder: COD is completely different from turn signal fastflash.
 

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I've seen [added: relay coils used to manage small power drains] on other [work related] forums, but always with a cheap relay. [Added: I also remembered someone here in 2002~2003 using an added 'sensor heater' for this purpose so have added that here in case it helps anyone find a solution for their situation: http://www.rswarrior.com/forums/13-technical-discussion/103547-problem-when-shutting-off-my-rsw.html#post1391134 ].

I noticed this [added: song chuan] relay here a few years ago and looked it up on the net. Its technical specs are very convincing. This clever trick works for COD since the requirement is so small. But it won't work for turn signal fastflash.

It occurs to me that I should clarify that members here who use this relay for their COD solution say they are more than satisfied with how easy it is to install, and with the relay's longevity. But its a bit harder to locate locally (easier on the net). I bought two for my own use (one spare) however to clarify I have not yet removed my bike's front running lights so I have not installed these on my own bike yet. No worries. I'm convinced by the specs, and by members who have mentioned excellent results over time.
 

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Ok I know that this has been posted a bunch and that I have read the answer but I have now spent 1 hour trying to find the thread again and can't.

I am about to put LED turn signals on my Warrior and need to know what kind of resistor to put on it in order to avoid the COD. I know that keeping it in neutral and turning it off with the key is a good alternative, but there are a few places that I park on a regular basis where I need to keep it in gear in order for it not to roll down into the street (have no idea why they graded the entire parking lot at my work that steeply).

There was a really good write up including the proper kuryakyn part that would be needed (was going to look and see if there was a more generic part at my local autozone) that I randomly found about 3 months back but now I can't find it again.

My other question on this would be if I would do the front and back lights is there a central place to put the resistor or is it just easier to get two and put them in different places?

I would also like to submit that if someone could do the write up with why you need to do this, and the right parts and the like that this should be something in the "Sticky" section as it is something that is very common and seems like everyone has a question about at some point (I mean we are talking about adding LEDs here, who won't do that at some point? lol)

Thanks for the help on this! Again even a link to the original writeup would be great and then I can delete this to have less clutter on the forum.
The click of death radio shack fix?
 

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The Click of Death (COD) aka Solenoid Syndrome

This is from a prior post, hope it helps a little.
-----
ECU managed bikes need a pathway to drain the residual ECU electricity when the bike is shut off. Electricity flows through completed circuits. The Warrior uses the front RUNNING light incandescent (filament) bulbs to burn-off that residual electricity. In the event these bulbs are blown or have been removed, they are no longer available to burn off that juice. So the electricity flows to the next place.

Some say the next place is the license plate light bulb if it exists, but I have a hard time finding that path on the electrical diagram so I take it on faith and trust that is correct.

The next place after that seems to be the green ECU wire exiting Pin #4 which goes to the Decompression Solonoid. I do not understand the ECU's inner circuitry, its proprietary and not part of the service manual, but I'm told that somehow the residual voltage exits at Pin #4, which leads to the decompression solenoid. Somehow that completed circuit inside the ECU causes voltage to flow from the battery. The trouble continues until the battery is dead if not manually interrupted.

I realize there's more to the story but in general terms that is what is happening.

Notice that COD has nothing to do with the turn signal bulbs. The front running lights and front turn signals just happen to share the same bulb: the turn signal filament of that bulb is on the turn signal circuit, the running light filament of that same bulb is on the headlight circuit.

Also, it has nothing to do with the LED tail/brake light because LED bulbs have such a low load, and because they electrically operate differently than incandescent bulbs, the residual ECU voltage won't go that way.

I'm being careful to discuss only COD here, not turn signal fast-flash which is a totally different thing. So its just COD on the table right now.
My .02 and real world explanation here:

The Click of Death (COD) aka Solenoid Syndrome is nothing more than a QUIRK of the Warrior bike (Not recognized and misunderstood by most Yamaha Dealers and not anticipated by Yamaha Engineering) and has nothing at all to do with Black Box technology.
It is a flaw in the Warrior design and not prevalent on the Roadstar model bike that uses a similar Decompression Solenoid (DS) because that bike’s ignition switches the +12vdc supply to this device OFF when the ignition key is removed.

The Warrior DS is directly feed from the battery + terminal and unswitched when the key is off which explains why the battery will be exhausted if this condition persists.

When the transmission is left in Neutral the residual potential energy is bleed-off through the Neutral Switch which is directly connected to the Chassis GRND :) ..... it is not necessary that the Blue running light wire be used to correct the syndrome. Any connection made down stream of the +12vdc Brown/Blue wire will do the deed

Pin 4 of the ECU (Light Green) is negative polarity and the designed switching terminal to operate the DS.
The Warrior ECU switches ALL output devices with negative polarity and not positive!

The stock License Light is an extension of the Tail Light as a branched connection shown below and commonly used under seat to defeat the syndrome by this writer and many others over the years.

 

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I've seen it on other forums, but always with a cheap relay. I noticed this relay here a few years ago and looked it up on the net. Its technical specs are very convincing. This clever trick works for COD since the requirement is so small. But it won't work for turn signal fastflash.

It occurs to me that I should clarify that members here who use this relay for their COD solution say they are more than satisfied with how easy it is to install, and the relay's longevity. But its a bit harder to locate locally (easier on the net). I bought two for my own use (one spare) however to clarify I have not yet removed my bike's front running lights so I have not installed these on my own bike yet. No worries. I'm convinced by the specs, and by members who have mentioned excellent results over time.
I think we all know who the Pioneer is of this one ;)

For those that don't like Resistors or Bulbs an alternative
and also not mounted in the headlight for my install


Here's something that is bullet proof. It's a sealed standard automotive relay wired up to the rear running light circuit and acts as a resisitor. Draws 0.125 amp, 1.6 watts consumption, 90 ohms and only gets warm.
Just wire the coil only (Terminals 85 and 86) and will out last the bike. Cost $2.88 from Mouser Electronics. Doesn't matter about the contact configuration as you won't be using them. This coil is rated at 10G shock and millions of cycles







Wire Coil Terminals 85 and 86 ONLY to the Running light Circuit, Blue and Black wires. The contacts aren't used




 

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So, if I put extra LED lights inside the headlight bucket that are hooked to the running light wires would this also take care of the COD or will they not draw enough to drain it off properly? (Have not done anything yet, just have the blinkers ready to go on and looking into some different lighting configurations)
 

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I stopped getting the COD when my decompression Solonoid stopped working. I probably need to fix that! I also have shut the bike of in neutral and let it sit then shifted into first after a minute if I am parking on a incline.
 

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Where can I get the wire terminal. The red and the clear. What gauge? 18? I'm looking at mouser website but there are so many! Please advise. Thanks
 

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Hey, so I realize I'm reviving a REALLY old thread, but I might have a problem!

Here's the scenario:
2006 Warrior that I've installed a rear tail light assembly that provides LED turn signals, LED brake light and LED plate light. Also I have Kuryakyn mirrors that provid LED turn signals for the front.

I've read about COD in the past and I've always tried to be mindful of shutting the bike down properly. Somewhere I recall reading that you could kill the bike using the kickstand while in gear and that would be "safe" and not kill your battery. This has always seemed to work.

Lately I've noticed when I go start the bike it's been troublesome. Admittedly, I have not been riding nearly enough lately, so the bike has been sitting. I replaced the battery a few months ago (before winter hit) and things seemed fine. I've kept it on a battery tender, but it doesn't want to start.

Sometimes it will, but other times it just "clicks" much like the sound of COD. However, I hear COD is when you are shutting off the bike. I've never experienced that.

Are these related? Will doing the COD "fix" solve my issue?

I created a video here:
https://youtu.be/CMPVsEsddRw
 

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Thanks ArizonaWarrior..

Thanks for the info. This is helpful. So in the above posts, alanh shared some images of a relay. I believe this to be the same one: http://bit.ly/30Uz0qD

If I order this and install it like he did, I didn't quite understand where the two wires connect. It shows to connect to the "Blue" and "Black" wires, but the cables shown in other photos have "ends" on them. Did he just splice directly into those wires using one of them crimp style splitters?

Anyone got a more "clear" image of this?

He also says "Wire Coil Terminals 85 and 86 ONLY to the Running light Circuit, Blue and Black wires. The contacts aren't used" -- Is this the same thing you referenced when saying "connect to the coil side?"

Sorry for sounding like a noob.. just really don't want to screw things up :)
 

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No worries. If you revisit this thread and also revisit all the links to other threads contained in this thread, you will find discussion going back to 2002-2003 and also several images showing how others have connected. Plus notice the wire-ends (connectors) from the auto part store used to connect to the relay's coil-side terminals. This lets you make the wires. The end of the wires that connect to the bike will be more apparent when you have the relay and wires in-hand and you start looking under your seat for the connection points. If you read everything including links to earlier threads then it will shed light making it easier.
 
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