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Hey, so I realize I'm reviving a REALLY old thread, but I might have a problem!

Here's the scenario:
2006 Warrior that I've installed a rear tail light assembly that provides LED turn signals, LED brake light and LED plate light. Also I have Kuryakyn mirrors that provid LED turn signals for the front.

I've read about COD in the past and I've always tried to be mindful of shutting the bike down properly. Somewhere I recall reading that you could kill the bike using the kickstand while in gear and that would be "safe" and not kill your battery. This has always seemed to work.

Lately I've noticed when I go start the bike it's been troublesome. Admittedly, I have not been riding nearly enough lately, so the bike has been sitting. I replaced the battery a few months ago (before winter hit) and things seemed fine. I've kept it on a battery tender, but it doesn't want to start.

Sometimes it will, but other times it just "clicks" much like the sound of COD. However, I hear COD is when you are shutting off the bike. I've never experienced that.

Are these related? Will doing the COD "fix" solve my issue?

I created a video here:
https://youtu.be/CMPVsEsddRw
I believe the proper sequence to shut off your bike to avoid any COD symptoms is put the bike in neutral and turn off with the key. do not use the kill switch. This just stops the symptoms of COD but does not eliminate the cause.
 

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I believe the proper sequence to shut off your bike to avoid any COD symptoms is put the bike in neutral and turn off with the key. do not use the kill switch. This just stops the symptoms of COD but does not eliminate the cause.
I've seen this referenced too and then also seen using the kickstand as a kill switch while in gear. I've been doing that for years and not had an issue. I've also never experienced the COD on shutdown, only occasionally when trying to start the bike. It's currently "stuck" in the condition that the video I posted shows.

Hoping that adding the relay will 1) fix the current issue and 2) prevent the issue from occurring in the future (without having to remember proper shutdown methods).

Can this cause the decompression solenoid to go bad? Any chance I would need to replace that?

Thanks to you and arizonawarrior for getting back to me. I'll go through the rest of the info and photos and look forward to getting this completed. I'm hoping to do a couple of larger/longer rides this year and would like to be confident in the bike.

Knock on wood, but I did a ride from the Pacific Northwest to the Grand Canyon and back in 2015 and didn't have any issues. Was an amazing ride. Hoping to do some of Route 66 this summer plus a few other rides.
 

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I should have mentioned just be be clear. It's hard to be certain from video where the noise is coming from exactly. COD occurs at shutdown and when it kills the battery and you try to start the bike, the battery doesn't have adequate power. I see its on the charger but if the battery is totally toasted then it may not matter. So fixing COD is a good idea, but you might have killed the battery beyond recovery. That being the case, its hard to trouble shoot if there is inadequate voltage to light the sensor array. So all I am saying is there could be more to this, or not, dunno yet.
 

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Battery...

Hoping that the battery is okay with it having remained on the charger, but hard to say. Certainly don't want to replace the battery until I have the COD solution in place.

The sound seems to be coming from the right side (brake side) of the bike, under the seat.
 

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Alright, so I had a chance to dig around under the seat a bit to put my eyes on the bike a little closer. I can confirm that it seems as though the "clicking" is coming from the box identified in image COD_1.jpg with the arrow. Is this the DS?

Also, looking through this thread and others, I don't see a great image yet of which pair coming off the ECU do you tie into. I know it's the "blue" and "black" but there's a few. COD_2.jpg identifies a couple of different blue wires coming from the ECU, plus another one in the background. Also, COD_3.jpg shows another connector with blue.

Being colorblind doesn't help either ;)
 

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Hey ArizonaWarrior (and others that are interested)....

I think my problem is two fold. So first, I did order the relay and that arrived. I checked decided to trace the wires backwards. So if you look under the rear fender, there is a bundle of wires that goes back to your taillight/signal and license plate light. Follow this towards the engine and you'll see where it goes through the fender. In your battery compartment, you can find where this comes out at. About 4-6 inches in, there is a plug and you can clearly see the wiring color here. I disconnected this and tested them with a light tester. The black is the ground and confirmed that the blue comes on when the lights are on. I spliced into these blue and black wires to tie in the relay.

I also used a multimeter and checked the battery. The Service Guide shows the battery should read at 12.8 V. I removed the charging connected and tested it. It showed 12.84. However, when turning the key into the run position, this dropped to about 9.6 V. This evening, after letting it sit off the charger for a bit (and finishing up the relay this evening) I checked it again: now showing 10.44 V (it hasn't been on the charger for a couple of days). When attempting to crank it over, the voltage drops to 6-8 V.

So I believe the COD issue (although I've never heard it on shutdown) may be contributing to battery maintenance issues. Also, I believe at this point the battery is probably shot and doesn't have enough cranking amps to kick it over.

I'll pick up a battery in the next few weeks and see what happens. I believe it will kick over just fine. My only concern will be if I keep having battery charge issues. I know in the past (when I wasn't letting it sit) it did fine. I also realize motorcycle batteries don't do well with the cold or letting them sit around. However, my son has a 2009 Suzuki C50 (stock) sitting in the garage next to it and it seems to hold a charge just fine. My battery is even newer (his might be stock lol).

(Speaking of.. if anyone has a particular battery they really like I'd be happy to hear about it. You can send me a PM if you don't want to hijack this thread. Battery type, or brand, or model.. or a link I can order it online.)

Just my .02....
 

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Thanks! I’m pretty sure my current battery is less than a year old. I’ll find out and have the place test it. If bad, I’ll replace it under warranty if they’ll do so. Otherwise, I may have to look into this one. Little more money and requires a different charger but sounds like a good battery.

FYI, 99% sure current battery is Xtreme AGM Battery CYLA14B4XTA.
 

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Update: So after finishing up the addition of the relay and letting the bike sit on the charger overnight, I checked things out again. The multimeter read 12.88V, but trying to crank it over dropped right back down to 6-8V.

I pulled the battery and took it to the store I bought it at. Turns out, I purchased the battery in April 2019, so still under warranty. They tested it and sure enough, it's toast. They swapped it out for free. However, the new replacement battery they have for that is TOO big. I can "squeeze" it in the battery box, but there's no room to connect the wires. They don't have the original battery I had. Going back tomorrow to see how long it would take to get one or if I can get my money back. If so, I'm ordering the Shorai!

As for the buzzing, I'm not really sure. I checked the other link you sent and that gets into the relays further down in the battery compartment, like the turn signal and all. However, this is right at the top and looks like it as an ECU fuse on it (see pic). If you put you finger it on it when you start it feels like it is making the buzzing.

To be honest, I think it's just related to having a dead battery and not enough cranking amps to kick it over. When I tried to start it earlier before pulling the battery today, it almost kicked over... so that was a good sign. You could hear the engine turn, so I'm pretty sure a good battery is all I need at this point. Plus having the relay in place should prevent further battery issues (hopefully)!

pdxwarrior
 

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I expect you are right.

Stay alert for shops who do not realize the Road Star parts most often differ from the Warrior even when they seem to physically fit. They see Road Star and never look for Warrior and do not understand the power difference or even simple things like the need for a smaller but more powerful battery. I ride that bull hard every time I hunt parts. I get part numbers on-line myself. Most of us do!
 

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I wasn't dealing with a motorcycle shop for the battery, just Batteries Plus since they are near by and sometimes have better pricing. Anyways, they confirmed this morning the guy screwed up yesterday and they handed me the right battery. All good, brought it home and it fired up! Here's hoping the addition of the relay removes any further issues.

https://youtu.be/rA6eGHV3gM0
 

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I'm Johnny-come-lately on this thread :( :) ;)
IMO what you experienced with your stated configuration (OP) and shut-down procedure is what I call the "Orphan Child to the COD" << 2-Links in this referenced thread.
I suspect the Clicking you heard was the Starter Relay because of the voltage drop.

Here's some reference material: Running Light Resistor & Relay

COD - Click of Death aka Solenoid Syndrome
12v Sealed Automotive Relay. Wire to the Coil Only for the resistive load.
Terminals 85 & 86 (Not Polarity Sensitive)
Warrior Blue & Black in the taillight harness
The N.O. contact can be used to switch a power outlet!
Shown below is a single pole double throw relay (SPDT) which isn't req'd for the task at hand. Any auto relay will suffice as you're using the coil of the relay in this circuit to bleed-off the residual voltage!




 

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Hey alanh,

You may be late, but you're always welcome! Not sure you had a chance to read everything, but it's interesting that you bring up an "orphan child to the COD" in your comment. As mentioned in my posts, I was aware of COD and had previously read that using the kickstand in gear would prevent it. I understand that may actually be incorrect, but it had worked for quite a few years. Sadly I have not been riding much at all and last year it sat quite a bit. I replaced the battery and it was running again, but life happened and the bike sat. It was on a battery tender and I would start it from time to time. I'm guessing that the orphan was still occurring without my knowing it and it just destroyed the battery over time.

Based on your photos in the thread above I was able to find the relay (I know others would work, but yours was in black & white, tested and proven) so I ordered that and installed it. The new battery today and things are up and running. Made a quick jaunt around the neighborhood, so I'm headed in the right direction!

The clicking of the starter relay makes sense too.

Really appreciate the input from arizonawarrior and yourself. This is a great forum, and while I might not visit too often, there's always helpful people here when I do! Lots of great info for sure!

-pdxwarrior
 

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I had a starting problem sounds like this obe. It turns over, won't start. Check-engine light flashes. I have led signals and tail light. I already had the small bulb from indicator to blue wire in headlight bucket, I added a bulb from blue wire to headlight power wire, this fixed it. No more COD or flashing instruments. Hope this helps.
 

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So you ran a bulb between the headlight bucket sky-blue hot wire and the headlight hot wire? Say it ain't so!!

I had a starting problem sounds like this obe. It turns over, won't start. Check-engine light flashes. I have led signals and tail light. I already had the small bulb from indicator to blue wire in headlight bucket, I added a bulb from blue wire to headlight power wire, this fixed it. No more COD or flashing instruments. Hope this helps.
 

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It is so... I think it worked because they are on different fuses. Or whoever wired the led indicators and tail light did it wrong? Anyway what I did fixed everything to do with COD, flashing blue light and ignition issues. For kill switch and side stand.
 

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From what I understand of COD it's got nothing to do with fuses..
What causes COD is that when you shut down the bike other than in neutral with the key, it sends power down the blue wire the wrong way (switched polarity). As stock that wire powers the running lights and tail lights, these were originally all bulbs. If you change from bulbs to LED's the power can no longer go the other way through that wire so it goes through another circuit which causes COD. So if you put any type of coil back on the blue wire... no more COD.. and yes a lightBULB is a coil, so are relays. LED's are NOT, the clue is in the name, Light Emitting Diode, Diodes only allow power to pass 1 way!.

Long story but that's about as simple as i can tell it. i've seen so many questions about it i thought i'd put my explanation here.
 

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I expect or rather hope and pray this conversation is really just a failure to communicate because if connected as described there would have been quick troubles. Makes me worry.

Its difficult terrain, so we all understand and we want to help. But maybe we need pics from you Charlie, they will help us help you PLUS will help us see if you did things right but are just using different terms. We all learn something this way!
 
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